fgw
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Everything posted by fgw
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Don has written up his FA adventure in the annual Mazama bulletin. Don't recall the year (1950's), but it's a great read (with great photos) if you can get your hands on a copy. It's a great climb on an amazing tower & if this thing were in the UT desert, it would be a crowded classic.
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It's a cool rap off (much air below too) but we probably screwed up lower as the rest of it was pretty miserable. Next time, I'd just backtrack down the route. And this one did take 2 ropes I think.
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first ascent [TR] Gunsight Peaks Traverse - "Gunrunner" IV 5.10
fgw replied to Blake's topic in North Cascades
Amazing scenery & awsome work!!- 41 replies
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- north cascades
- traverse
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couple more shots from following day: Pitch 6 Pitch 2 Pitch 3?
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pm sent.
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...forgettable. We did it the day after you guys 7/7/07 and I kind of had same impression of it. i also thought the best part was being on this cool, big wall that I've looked at for years before.
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Good read. Fun adventure climb eh!
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[TR] Red Rocks, NV - Off the beaten path 4/19/2007
fgw replied to colt45's topic in The rest of the US and International.
Excellent! Always enjoy your Red Rocks TR's. -
[TR] Yosemite - Washington Column - Ten Days After 5/9/2007
fgw replied to corvallisclimb's topic in California
Awsome! Lots of fun packed into 4 days. -
did it in summer '05 and I'm thinking that I did not see any mank on that pitch - probably been replaced already.
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did it (east butt) in late may 3 or 4 years ago. i was very happy to have poons & ax on way down (next day some dude hiked up/down mounties route with tennies & a hiking pole though - so what do i know)
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[TR] King of Pain Spire - Vision Quest 3/31/2007
fgw replied to Sol's topic in The rest of the US and International.
Nice! Been wanting to try that one. If you liked the loco stemming pitch, you'd love the final pitch of Window Route on Echo Pinnalce. -
[TR] Red Rocks, NV - Inti Wantana, Mt. Wilson 4/5/2007
fgw replied to layton's topic in The rest of the US and International.
Awsome!! Got a rental stuck (on two different outings I think) in Windy Canyon approach road. Then on 3rd time found a sedan-friendly road. -
Tyler, if it's any route that has shitty anchors on top, here are 2 candidates: Dolf's Dihedral has 1 ancient bolt, 1 angle, 1 nut as top anchor. Perpetual Motion next door has 3 pitons all dangling neatly from a webbing stuffed into a crack. Thank you for all the efforts.
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I think it's not a good idea for reason mentioned above (2nd pitch takes off up the chimney to OW - even if it's rarely done) and the fact that if you move the anchors to be level with the finishing traverse on KC, you'll be able to lower off and TR the second from the ground = permanent top rope (and eveyone in the class of 250 people learning on Easy Reader nearby wants to get a ride).
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In Arches or on arches (in Arches)? If you mean the former, one could ask "why hike up to the Pickets since WA pass has so much better rock & no hiking?" For some, the soft entrada towers in Arches are more fun than clean wingate splitters of indian creek.
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it's dr doom 5.9
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smith
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#4.5 camalot near bottom of photo.
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Pitch 2 of Backbone Ridge is a pretty nice one. Also, the short wide section on NW Corner of NEWS is decent. Off Tempo in Smith's Lower Gorge is a short one but a nice work out. OW's on Rebel Yell were nice as they seemed just below vertical.
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I'd second the West Face on Monkey. Did it yesterday and I think it would fit your bill. Supersafe & beautiful position. All new bolts - be ready for some loooong reach or two.
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best of cc.com [TR] Utah Desert Tower Tour - 3/20/2007
fgw replied to joepuryear's topic in The rest of the US and International.
The shots of climbers on the Priest from Rectory & climbers on Fine Jade from Castleton are some of the best tower shots I've seen. Outstanding. You should add Honeymoon Chimney on the Priest & In Search Of Suds on Washerwoman to your list for next trip down there.- 24 replies
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- utah
- joy puryear
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