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fgw

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Everything posted by fgw

  1. couple more shots from following day: Pitch 6 Pitch 2 Pitch 3?
  2. ...forgettable. We did it the day after you guys 7/7/07 and I kind of had same impression of it. i also thought the best part was being on this cool, big wall that I've looked at for years before.
  3. Good read. Fun adventure climb eh!
  4. Excellent! Always enjoy your Red Rocks TR's.
  5. Awsome! Lots of fun packed into 4 days.
  6. did it in summer '05 and I'm thinking that I did not see any mank on that pitch - probably been replaced already.
  7. what about this: vedauwoo never been but looks kinda cool
  8. did it (east butt) in late may 3 or 4 years ago. i was very happy to have poons & ax on way down (next day some dude hiked up/down mounties route with tennies & a hiking pole though - so what do i know)
  9. Nice! Been wanting to try that one. If you liked the loco stemming pitch, you'd love the final pitch of Window Route on Echo Pinnalce.
  10. Awsome!! Got a rental stuck (on two different outings I think) in Windy Canyon approach road. Then on 3rd time found a sedan-friendly road.
  11. Tyler, if it's any route that has shitty anchors on top, here are 2 candidates: Dolf's Dihedral has 1 ancient bolt, 1 angle, 1 nut as top anchor. Perpetual Motion next door has 3 pitons all dangling neatly from a webbing stuffed into a crack. Thank you for all the efforts.
  12. I think it's not a good idea for reason mentioned above (2nd pitch takes off up the chimney to OW - even if it's rarely done) and the fact that if you move the anchors to be level with the finishing traverse on KC, you'll be able to lower off and TR the second from the ground = permanent top rope (and eveyone in the class of 250 people learning on Easy Reader nearby wants to get a ride).
  13. In Arches or on arches (in Arches)? If you mean the former, one could ask "why hike up to the Pickets since WA pass has so much better rock & no hiking?" For some, the soft entrada towers in Arches are more fun than clean wingate splitters of indian creek.
  14. it's dr doom 5.9
  15. #4.5 camalot near bottom of photo.
  16. Pitch 2 of Backbone Ridge is a pretty nice one. Also, the short wide section on NW Corner of NEWS is decent. Off Tempo in Smith's Lower Gorge is a short one but a nice work out. OW's on Rebel Yell were nice as they seemed just below vertical.
  17. fgw

    aid routes?

    I'd second the West Face on Monkey. Did it yesterday and I think it would fit your bill. Supersafe & beautiful position. All new bolts - be ready for some loooong reach or two.
  18. The shots of climbers on the Priest from Rectory & climbers on Fine Jade from Castleton are some of the best tower shots I've seen. Outstanding. You should add Honeymoon Chimney on the Priest & In Search Of Suds on Washerwoman to your list for next trip down there.
  19. Loop road late exit pass: 702 515 5050. Free & painless - no need to stop at the visitor center.
  20. I recommend getting that Larry DeAngelo book "Red Rock Odyssey". Great read w. great photos - makes me want to go back every time I flip thru. it. In addition to what others mention, Crimson Chrysallis 9P 5.8 - probably best 5.8 I've been on. Might be crowded but there's Ginger Cracks next door as plan B. Shady. pain in the ass approach. Triassic Sands 6P 5.10 (only about 20 feet of 5.10 - I've heard "old timers" call it a 5.9 - I thought it was pretty 5.10 but i'm weak). Beautiful line and goes quickly as most pitches are 5.8 or easier. 40 minute approach. Frigid Air Buttress. 10P (doable in 6 or 7 long pitches) 5.9+. Fun pitches separated by huge ledges. Most of it is 5.7-5.8. Shady but we did it in Jan. and it was reasonable. Painful descent. 20 minute approach. Community Pillar. 6P 5.9 (one 5.9 squeeze on first pitch - easier if you're small) with much 5.7-5.8 chimney's/wideness (some runouts). 25 minute approach.
  21. how about Big Bend outside of Moab? It's in Fred Knapp guidebook - no idea if any good though weather's better.
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