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Ellingwood Arete

J., I gotta check the name at home -- it's a .9 chimney on backside of Snake Rock.

Chopper 5.8 @ Staender.

Chopper 5.8 @ Staender.

south face, west corner. My wife in yellow jacket is at start of what dodge calls south saddle direct. "Fuerrer's Cave" 30feet up the standard route is visible on left. Supposedly 5.4 to get to cave but I could not find that passage? Again this is all per dodge book - Wayne & Don can correct me here.

Wayne & Don - thank you for posting info on this thing! 2 years ago, the landslide area provided a nice clear path most of the way. Last fall, the landslide sprouted a brand new (and seemingly dense) young forest.

It is the SW corner.

Photo below is displayed as a link (All copyrights & credit belong to David Jensen of http://djensenphotography.com ):

Wayne, thank you very much!! This is great! Based on what Mr. Baars emailed me, his ascent was in the early 50's via the south face (I will ask him to post the date here) and was the 2nd one of the tower (I guess that would be right before FA of NE face). Don lives in KS now. Dave Jensen (2nd ascent of NE face route, is still in OR) is a photographer with his own site (that features an awseome shot of the tower by the way - will post link). I'm surprised to see at least 3 ascents of the NE face (hard route on an already very hard tower!) & the fact that Bill Cummins climbed it 3 times! Dave Jensen also mentions that an initial attempt on that route ended up with 2 climbers falling to their deaths (supposedly featured in local newspapers at the time). That would make for some sobering statistics. Looking at the dates, seems like the tower was in fashion thru. the 60's. So is the bleached tat visible from base atop P1 of south face yours Wayne? THere was also some tat on the "bolt" at base of south saddle direct. Thank you very much again for the information!

Jeepenfool95's shot might be Iguanas On Elm Street - a 10b on Snake Rock?

how about this Smith classic?

Wayne, so when you were up there, did you check out & do you recall the names of some other folks who've done it & signed the register (your ascent was #13 right)? do you remember any names by chance? There's a gentleman (Don Baars, FA of Steins & 2nd ascent of St. Petes) who's trying to piece together the history of St. Peters climbs. Thanks!

yeah - it's steins.

not my cam & not my photo but from what I remember a #4 or something worked fine somewhere there.

yes - you can almost see in that photo I linked. From my limited experience, once it's locked it stays that way but sometimes if you don't take enough care to 'dress up' the hitch it can slip.

another option might be normal daisies + adjustable fifi:

you can also try Beulah's Book (3 pitches at base of Solar Slab) in Red Rocks - pretty much like Epinephrine but only 20 feet long

Aries (?) at Index got a short flared chimney. Stanley-Burgner rotue on S. face of Prusik got a nice chimney. Damnation Crack at Lworth got a nice if short chimney section. 7-Virgins in Vantage.

nice go at it! I think our friends on e. face of lex ran into you guys that Saturday?

About 3 years ago, I saw a minivan at that trailhead. Could not believe my eyes. Once tried getting a rental sedan in there (no go). Still takes a solid 45 minutes from Stanley in my tundra pick up. That's some rough driving.

guidebook If you like spires, the Menagerie chapters (by Jim Anglin, aka "retired" above) have a ton of good stuff.

Wayne, I'm not sure if Dave's got the Monster photo on his site but it does appear here: http://www.tripcheck.com/images/SBsection/Over-the-River_T.gif

If you got 15 days, why not put in a couple hrs driving and hit the desert? Moab, Red Rocks, Cochise, Sedona...whatever is better than the soupy weather here.

Sent you a pm - basically, might want to check this: http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/169290/the-rabbit-ears.html

thank you very much Jim (& Mark). I've exchanged email with Dave Jensen (who's a photgrapher, www.djensenphotography.com lots of sweet shots esp. stuff that cannot be taken by non-climber types...eg see his shot of St. Peters Dome) who was one of the 3 to do the FA of this tower in 1966. Dave had a couple interesting tidbits: Eugene Dod is the guy who first found this tower. His suggestion was to name the tower "Turkey Necked Monster". That idea was defeated by Dave and the present name was settled on. Also, Dave says: "Can't add much to Turkey Monster--mainly I remember the long approach through thick rhododendron thickets (the logging road hadn't been pushed to where it is now) and prussiking (no jumars then) on the stretchy goldline ropes (you'd prussik a mile it seemed and still be where you started--it was always scary to transfer from a hanging belay to the rope because you'd drop so far if you didn't get all the stretch out). Mainly I remember worrying about how we'd get down. Eugene really wanted it--I thought it too rotten and dangerous."