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Smith ideas. Off Tempo, 10a, east side, Lower gorge (#3.5 to #5 Camalot). Short but seems to deliver. Titus, 5.9, west side, Lower gorge (much tipped out #6 C4 terrain). Taxdor (have not done, gets an X), just left of Cruel Sister. Looks like OW to squeeze so probably not too X?? Blitzkrieg, 5.9, east side just around corner from Handjob. Have not done. ?? 5.8 just right of Wildfire in Lower Gorge. TR'ed it once. Doctor Doom on Spiderman Buttress, 5.9. got scared off of it. Looks like #4 Big Bro(s) at least for a p... like me. Gone With The Flake 5.9 on Red Wall. The flake at top can be climbed as an OW. Ton of wide hard stuff at tc. There is also this flared out bombay chimney going to OW (have not done it) on "backside" of Snake Rock, pic: Will post some pics if needed. EDIT IN: missed your "10-11" criterion.

Cochise Stronghold is a great option for <5.8 lines. Eg's: Moby Dick (soft 5.8), What's My Line (5.6 A0), Wasteland (5.8). For Red Rocks, I'd add Group Therapy & Healy's Haunted House next to Tunnel V. All 3 are 5.7 and sunny. Olive Oil 5.7, Johny Vegas 5.6 are also sunny I think. I think UT desert has fewer interesting options sub 5.9 but plenty of amazing aid lines to consider.

Yes. This is from last Thanksgiving: and the one previous to that:

E. Face of Minuteman. If not, E. Face of Lex.

Ellingwood Arete

J., I gotta check the name at home -- it's a .9 chimney on backside of Snake Rock.

Chopper 5.8 @ Staender.

Chopper 5.8 @ Staender.

south face, west corner. My wife in yellow jacket is at start of what dodge calls south saddle direct. "Fuerrer's Cave" 30feet up the standard route is visible on left. Supposedly 5.4 to get to cave but I could not find that passage? Again this is all per dodge book - Wayne & Don can correct me here.

Wayne & Don - thank you for posting info on this thing! 2 years ago, the landslide area provided a nice clear path most of the way. Last fall, the landslide sprouted a brand new (and seemingly dense) young forest.

It is the SW corner.

Photo below is displayed as a link (All copyrights & credit belong to David Jensen of http://djensenphotography.com ):

Wayne, thank you very much!! This is great! Based on what Mr. Baars emailed me, his ascent was in the early 50's via the south face (I will ask him to post the date here) and was the 2nd one of the tower (I guess that would be right before FA of NE face). Don lives in KS now. Dave Jensen (2nd ascent of NE face route, is still in OR) is a photographer with his own site (that features an awseome shot of the tower by the way - will post link). I'm surprised to see at least 3 ascents of the NE face (hard route on an already very hard tower!) & the fact that Bill Cummins climbed it 3 times! Dave Jensen also mentions that an initial attempt on that route ended up with 2 climbers falling to their deaths (supposedly featured in local newspapers at the time). That would make for some sobering statistics. Looking at the dates, seems like the tower was in fashion thru. the 60's. So is the bleached tat visible from base atop P1 of south face yours Wayne? THere was also some tat on the "bolt" at base of south saddle direct. Thank you very much again for the information!

Jeepenfool95's shot might be Iguanas On Elm Street - a 10b on Snake Rock?

how about this Smith classic?

Wayne, so when you were up there, did you check out & do you recall the names of some other folks who've done it & signed the register (your ascent was #13 right)? do you remember any names by chance? There's a gentleman (Don Baars, FA of Steins & 2nd ascent of St. Petes) who's trying to piece together the history of St. Peters climbs. Thanks!

yeah - it's steins.

not my cam & not my photo but from what I remember a #4 or something worked fine somewhere there.

yes - you can almost see in that photo I linked. From my limited experience, once it's locked it stays that way but sometimes if you don't take enough care to 'dress up' the hitch it can slip.

another option might be normal daisies + adjustable fifi:

you can also try Beulah's Book (3 pitches at base of Solar Slab) in Red Rocks - pretty much like Epinephrine but only 20 feet long

Aries (?) at Index got a short flared chimney. Stanley-Burgner rotue on S. face of Prusik got a nice chimney. Damnation Crack at Lworth got a nice if short chimney section. 7-Virgins in Vantage.

nice go at it! I think our friends on e. face of lex ran into you guys that Saturday?

About 3 years ago, I saw a minivan at that trailhead. Could not believe my eyes. Once tried getting a rental sedan in there (no go). Still takes a solid 45 minutes from Stanley in my tundra pick up. That's some rough driving.

guidebook If you like spires, the Menagerie chapters (by Jim Anglin, aka "retired" above) have a ton of good stuff.