JosephH

Is that an OAP (Opdycke-Approved Prophecy)? Wouldn't put much stock in it if not and there's no mention at all of aliens...

Ha! No, I just figured I ought to put some cams up to back what I've been saying given Aric was nice enough to put test rig together. I sent him 7 of the 8 I had. I kept the one green/yellow as that's the first piece off the YW p1 anchor on Lost Warriors. Glad the MC Offsets are about to be available so I won't need it either.

I don't know if that will be the final way they do the color markings or not, and I agree the coloring on the Alien Hybrids is a nice approach. I've been testing a set of these for a couple of weeks now and I did end up racking them on a different color biners than the rest of my rack so I could tell the difference. They are essentially plug-compatible with the Hybrids and I'm definitely popping for a set or two of them given I sent all my Hybrids to Aric for his RC.com testing thread.

Now that I have a few spare moments... Biology dictates when the rock opens, my only involvement is in assisting with the monitoring given it's just one of many responsibilities of the WDFW biologist who has other pressing priorities such as EIS and impact research on wind farms out east. Beacon opens when it opens; the time I invest in monitoring sometimes contributes to early opens, but only in helping WDFW know it's time for them to come verify the fledges are up and flying competently. Four out of five early opens with other places to climb these days - no complaints, desperate or otherwise from me over it. Not lately, but it looks like a new generation has picked up that mantle quite well. Why yes, thank you. Please, you and anyone else is welcome to come up and show me how it's really done. Hey, I'd love nothing more than to see your progress on it. Consider it an open invitation, any time. Oh my god! Rejected by the 'crew' - lordy, now I really am losing sleep. My personal favorite - damn, I am blinded and shamed no less. I should be wandering the streets. True, I normally like to get paid for product endorsements, but this one I'll do for free given how much I like it - especially how it holds a 1-liter bladder for hot or long days:

kev, this where all my Beacon posts go, get used to it. Been that way for years now. There appear to be minimal loose rock issues this year and the SE Corner start area looks clean - on the other hand it is Beacon and you should always be careful and cognizant of issues of loose rock and rockfall everywhere out there. Like Kevin says above - it's risky business so take care.

One safety note - Last year rocks up to the size of footballs were coming down onto the area around the SE Corner start. They did so for the first two weeks after the open and were natural rockfalls from one of two suspected sites high on the wall below the SE Corner ridge. The area the rocks were landing was essentially the entire area around the SE Corner start from when you first come up to the start from the trail. I would strongly recommend folks not socialize or queue up in this area until we know what the situation is this year. Consider hanging out back around by Cruisin' or up by the first tunnel area instead. If you do need to be in the area of the SE Corner start for any length of time consider keeping one of the trees between you and the face. In general, try to be efficient in your SE Corner start and get through the first pitch in a timely fashion to be up and out of range.

Beacon opens at 8am tomorrow morning (Wednesday, July 22)

Fortunately, that masterpiece didn't require any 'routesetting' as it was already there - all it needed was a few points of protection so you guys could climb it.

And they inhabit every single climbable rock surface on earth to boot - next they'll want to nest on your gym.

They've fledged and will survive, but they've had the place to themselves for awhile and, just like us, are going to have to learn to share the realm.

Let me pick up the slack. Men don't 'routeset' except possibly while overcome by deep metrosexual crises when they can also be infected with boltsetting. These are consumptive vainglorious diseases typically affecting males in their late teens and often persisting until the victim reaches their early thirties when the rapid onset of infants, increased appetite, and the rapidly fading glory of youth sends them into remission. There is no vaccine or cure for route and boltsetting which have reached pandemic levels and retain a high recidivism rate for those surviving rehab and family obligations. Once infected the victim is a carrier for life and must be constantly pricked and vigil for signs of an outbreak. Symptoms include rabid betafoam, bankable acclaim, last harrahs, and cocked halos of communal beneficence. The only defense against this affliction is not sharing chalk, thoroughly disinfecting your hands after visiting a gym, and coughing into your sleeve while announcing route ratings.

And that would be Wednesday - 8am

Hopefully they'll beef up the axles compared to the Camalots. Those weak, rattly axle assemblies on the Camalots never sat well with me.

On a K through 12 basis, you really wouldn't want an outside auditor ranking cc.com's typical spray quotient or content quality. The game show "Are You Smarter Than a Fifth Grader?" leaps to mind (obviously a FOX Network production given their audience)...

Someone answered this a couple of years back but I'm getting senile and I also apparently no longer have those emails either. So what was the story on this rock again?

Bad bolts, half a bag of chalk dumped on half a 5.7 pitch, and fewer climbing days - all good no doubt, especially if you live somewhere else and don't climb. Edit: so you claim to be getting out, good for you, what a change - whining and climbing.

No, unless you think Bill is trying to tell people how to climb as well. But if you insist that mentioning to folks that putting in rusting time bombs and badly placed bolts serves no one's interest is 'telling other what to do / how to climb' then so be it. But me personally, if I'm going to come upon a bolt, my preference is that it's a good one. So which is it out at Ozone, stainless or will your son be climbing on junk in in his early teens...?

The point of the thread was to let folks know that being shortsighted or cheap now is only going to create a mess for themselves or others ten years down the road when all the non-stainless bolts need to be replaced - not to provide an impulse control test for you and pink.

Edited. Well, that covered half of it.

Kevin, you did use all stainless at Ozone, right...?

Check out the power of the Internet - now you can hear a whine all the way from Colorado where it's 81 degrees with scattered clouds in Eldo today.

Cat - just now looking at this thread. My condolences for your loss. Didn't you also have some significant health issues of your own? How are you doing? I was just in LB to see my parents, will have to remember you're down that way now.

I moved an anchor today, it was with two year old, five piece, non-stainless 3/8" bolts which were already well on their way to corroding. If you must bolt something on the west side of the Cascades, then please pop for stainless so you're not just installing ten year timebombs - and also, please pay attention to holding the drill perpendicular to the rock.

Bill - that rig of Grossman's is the one I was thinking of...

Got me there. cc.love is it any wonder... One One is the loneliest number that you'll ever do Two can be as bad as one It's the loneliest number since the number one No is the saddest experience you'll ever know Yes, it's the saddest experience you'll ever know `Cause one is the loneliest number that you'll ever do One is the loneliest number, worse than two It's just no good anymore since he went away Now I spend my time just making rhymes of yesterday One is the loneliest, number one is the loneliest Number one is the loneliest number that you'll ever do One is the loneliest, one is the loneliest One is the loneliest number that you'll ever do It's just no good anymore since he went away (Number) One is the loneliest (Number) One is the loneliest (Number) One is the loneliest number that you'll ever do (Number) One is the loneliest (Number) One is the loneliest (Number) One is the loneliest number that you'll ever do