JosephH

It should be noted eldiente is a very strong and experienced climber roped or solo.

Leap frog free soloing has little in common with leap frog aid soloing relative to cleaning pro. Attempting to do this if you aren't a strong climber, familiar with free soloing, roped soloing, and aid soloing would be a bad idea in my opinion. One of the essences of soloing in any of the three solo modalities is rythmn. Breaking cleanly from one to the other for segments or pitches is one thing and I do that quite regularly, breaking it up for a move here and a move there I just wouldn't be willing to do and I've be free roped soloing and free soloing for decades. But everyone has to find there own way with what works for them when it comes to soloing of any kind...

My advice would be go either fully solo or fully roped solo and not try to rig a short two move system - but that's just me.

Good call on the Blue - possibly what I consider the best climbing on earth, but then I'm a sandstone guy...

Mt. Bacon - South Rib

They had a good chunk of the Cliff Hanger riggers, safety, and stunt crew involved with VL and a few new ones to boot, but the director and producers weren't even remotely interested in the opinions of or suggestions from the crew.

It is.

OMG! Someone has wiped out Ozone East! I can hear the drills weeping. But as Mike said on that thread, maybe this was taking the pressure off of other areas just as Ozone does for Beacon. Then again, it gets back to the simple reality that at this point, and as Mike White points out on that thread, the drilling is insatiable and unstoppable. Sure, SLC and BCC has plenty of rock, but the same thing is happening across the country and in lots of areas with a far more limited pallet of crags.

Ivan, how about replacing the Flightime pro and anchors while you're at it. I'm currently nursing what turned out to be a broken finger, but I could swing by with the drilling rig and necessary bolts and hangers. You could leave the old aluminum poptop bolts to give folks some historical perspective on the FA.

When I worked on Maui for U of RI we were almost coerced into setting up some high research rigging on those highly vegetated cliffs with the use of ice climbing gear and old-fashion solid ice screws. Fortunately we were able to dodge that bullet.

Hadn't hear that one before - that's actually pretty damn funny...

This is worth repeating, however... Ditto, for sratching/chalking arrows up the SE Corner for your second and rappelling off the tree.

It's raining noobs, nubiles, and rocks! Well, ok, just noobs and rocks. I'd say it's just the collective price we pay for bringing along folks who haven't gotten control of their weight distribution yet. They have to learn, and out at Beacon that will always involve the loss of some cherished holds over time. C'est la vie...

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2175387;forum_view=recent_posts;page=unread#unread

Can you really be a respectable thirty-something these days without tats and chickens?

Oh, I thought you meant the horn you use to get up onto the slab. But that little rope directing stone was pretty nice to have as well, though it too was slowly getting loose. Someone probably yarded on it - bummer.

? the belay under the roof is before the little ladder up the slab - i think i've only used it twice, each time w/ a complete newb - plaid's right, a newb can get awful freaked at the crux, espeically since they can't see/hear you - i too prefer the slab finsih too, especially when soloing I'm confused, there's no need to ever go left anywhere near where she's at in the pcture. But Bill did remind me that people used to do the high traverse to the slab and sometimes belay where she is.

Sort of like the horn that used to be at the top of the first pitch, it always been just a matter of time before someone without much control over themselves yarded it out of there. Sad to see it go, but glad it didn't come off on someone free-soloing (not that it likely ever would have).

Well, I suppose that's one way of looking at it. But then that's the beauty of climbing - everyone can do their own thing. I personally much prefer the dance up the middle of the slab than that crack system on the left.

Ah, there you go with regard to there being lots of ways to break it up as that's sure a novel place to belay from! She's about 35-40 feet above the anchor for belaying p2. And yes, unnecessarily removing the flakes on the wall below the move up onto the p2 slab is a really bad idea.

There are lots of ways to break up the SE Corner pitches, could you be more specific? Are you talking about the 'V' notch at the top of the Jimney? Are you talking about the series of large blocks that used to be part of the trail from p1 to p2? If so those got trundled early last season.

I'll give you a call...

Proof Glenn and Rush are right on target drumming the lowest common denominator beat...

I can't make it, but can we donate via your posse somehow...?

I thought the Black Maria line was to the left of RR...now I'm confused (not that that is new)...