JosephH

Or men in tights?

Bill 'The Badger' Coe is a route miner - he moves more earth in search of top climbs than any fifty V12 slackers you'd ever run across. And while most guys are just out dreamingly wandering around looking up in space, Bill is getting down to business digging out the gems. Most guys walk up to a rock and check out the sit starts; but Bill, Bill walks up and just knows that six feet under there's a pumpy V5 start just waiting to be freed - literally. This sort of climbing takes vision, experience, and a good nose for when to disinter a classic - it's a lot like truffle hunting. And Bill has shoulders of steel. Do you wanna talk about physical strength? Do you want to talk about sheer muscle? Do you want to talk about the Olympian ideal? He's is a God. And listen to me, he is not evil. He... is... good!!! This is a nice man. This is a good man. This is a mother's angel. And I want the world to know once and for all, and without any shame, that we love him. He's going to teach you. He's going to show you how to walk, how to speak, how to move, how to think like a climber. Together, He and you are going to make the greatest single contribution to climbing since the creation of der grigri! [ P.S. What hump...? ]

So which do people hit during the week when they've got time to dash a few off - the Exits or Index?

No need. When I was putting it up I took about a 25' footer at the top of the dihedral he's on, falling down the face on the rightside of the pic when a whole-hand-sized hold simply slid straight out like it was on greased wheels. It was a nasty backflip sort of fall like getting kicked straight out off the rock by a mule. Much to my surprise the section of wall I came back in on hard was paved solid with six inches of moss - didn't feel a thing. Just a case of having to do a little cleaning on a gateway pitch in order to get into the really sterling climbing above it. Keeps the noobs from hurting themselves as well. Bottom line is you have to be willing to put some fire to the bacon to climb at Beacon - it's not just another roadside attraction like most of what passes for rock close to Seattle.

I've had two compressors - nice, but not as compact as the thermawrap.

When Jim's gone we will have lost our only ambassador to the Reptilians of the government-above-the-government and also access to their Earthly HQ underneath Bacon Rock. After that there'll be an AutoTaser in every tree. And you thought those were blast tunnels? And that the wall behind the LoLP command center was solid? Or that the Peregrines are just birds and not sentries? Or that 1 out of every 1000 turons who head up the trail doesn't end up as dinner? Right'O me naive buckos - our days are numbered - but if anyone could take up the mantle and restore balance to the Force in Jim's wake, it can only be Ivan [the Terrible].

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Jeebus Bill, I had no idea. If I'd only known sooner how much help you needed I would have been there for you. But you know, I have my own problems, I just thank god they are at least somewhat under control compared to yours. Now when I dig through my meager pile of shit I'll be grateful and think about those poor souls who are more fortunate than me and who just can't stop the voices in their head when they say, "BUYS MEEEEE! BBBBBUUUUYYYYYYSSSSSS MMMMEEEEEEEEE!" And lordy, all my sympathy to Jasmine and the family - I could almost cry myself to sleep thinking about how much more secure their future would have been if it weren't for your 'problem'.

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Depends on who's 60 you're talking about. Even with body weight stretch none of mine would make it that far back when I was replacing those anchors.

Oh, that Brad. Met him out at DZ / Farside with Jimmy O. one day. Super strong and seemed like a real nice guy. No problem with him other than he doesn't live here.

Kevin - Brad? The finger is pretty thrashed and swollen still, but I'm getting by. Doesn't care much for the slot you use at the top of the Corner's p2 slab where the two pins are that you use to pull up over the rock laps and around the first corner.

Ah, yeah forgot about him, think I have a # for him. Could be a good option as well depending on his trad comfort level. And, believe me, any encouragement is welcome, even pink's route-mothering, and he's right about needing to just stay after it next year.

Yeah, with a 70m you can reach the sweet, enticing anchor down and right which you definitely don't want to try to get to with a 60m. With a 60m you really need to use none of the obvious anchors you see while rapping and use the hidden one halfway down and around the corner to the left.

Shouldn't you end that with, "Just saying..." P.S. All that other work is done for the most part other than a few niggling spots I need to get Ivan to take care of...

Up to the high anchor, yes. And I did and do immensely appreciate your, Jimmy O., Mike Reddig, Jim Anglin, Bill, and Hanmi's help in getting me up to that high anchor. But casting off from there for those roofs is a whole different Twilight Zone / altered state and probably will be until this baby is put to bed. Overall, the hardest moves on Lost Warriors are simple, safe, easy, and well protected by comparison. If I were aiding this thing then I'd be after you all the time, but it's not - though I have no doubt at all that if you twisted your knickers slightly in the opposite direction you'd be a free climbing fool.

word. and how much iq does a belayer need to jug a rope if he can't climb it? you shouldn't be putting up a route w/ bullshit anchors if that's the problem. In this case I'll take all the IQ I can get. The high anchor is 1/2" x 8" with heavy rap hangers, that isn't the problem. The problem is the climbing is technical and delicate, the rock is delicate, and the pro is delicate. Think blocks between the size of a Prius and UPS van split down the middle that you're climbing on and protecting behind which are more or less hung on the wall, but with a split plane between them and the wall. It's not a nice approach up to the roof even if once at the base of it goes back from tuft to normal Beacon rock. Also, I'm not going up there with anyone not capable of freeing the route with me - too much seperation of motivations, incentives, and concerns - a jugornot just wouldn't be in 'tune' with the vibe and also likely not scared enough.

Me too, I'm getting too old for this shit.

Like I said, wish it were that simple - but it's deadly serious up there between the pro, moves, and logistics of the pitch. I've done the lead up to the roof five times now, am the only one that's led it at this point, and it's a bit of a horror show each time I let more than a week go between goes. And definitely not something you want to do in the cold. My main problem has been partners. Shane was great when he stepped up, as he's into hard trad and way into roofs; but, he moved away for work and haven't gotten any other takers yet. Hopefully I'll get Arent, the new guy, Tyler, and / or Tymun up there next year as any of the four would likely work out fine. But I'm not going up there without someone who's not only totally solid, but also totally psyched at the idea of it. Too dangerous otherwise. I'd head up there with you or Arent, but you aren't around and Arent hasn't checked it out yet.

Wish it were that simple. Even the belaying is pretty fucking techical and attempting to second the third pitch will also be sketch as there will likely be no going down after a fall and also maybe no being able to get back on the rock. The likely result of falling off the roof after cleaning the last piece will be swinging in space and jugging on the belay. Makes establishing a good anchor up there all the more of a priority. But a 'ringer' has just moved to PDX from Bend and I'll give a shot at talking him into it next year.