JosephH

Well, it sure is keeping a lot of 'em down on the farm around here...

It's farming the young humans that's what keeps'em from climbing - the chickens usually just mean babies are happening or about to.

Chickens are a sure sign the 28-36 yo crowd has been, or is about to be, reduced to next to no climbing because of new parental responsibilities.

Yeah, http://www.notube.com/charlie-fowler/its-easy-to-be-easy-when-you're-easy

Charlie free soloed the Integral Route, not Pervertical Sanctuary.

You ever heard of Charlie Fowler? You and Mark must be high. Charlie didn't free solo 'that' route.

Climbing is inherently self-indulgent. You might as well be attempting to write something insightful about orgasms or acid trips as far as conveying your experience to others goes. That's why even over decades I've only rarely read anything about actual climbs that wasn't either a droll recitation, a tedious puff-n-blow, or an incoherent rant. It does happen, but overall - like porn - the verbiage and sound are by and large pretty awkward and entirely optional. P.S. I'd have to side with Bill's wheat 'n chaff assessment of Pat's writing even if it is a whole lot of sifting for the grain...

Apparently it was in this case...

The official script was written some time ago: Y'know, I'm just happy to be here and hope I can help climbing. I just want to give it my best shot and good Lord willing, things'll work out. Gotta climb'em one day at a time, Y'know...

When Charlie did it he basically couldn't sit staring at the fire thinking about having just broken up with a gf any longer and just disappeared, wouldn't bet for sure even he knew what he was going to be doing beyond not sitting there any longer (and no, I wasn't with him to know for sure, but climbed [briefly] with him not long before and heard the tale through mutual friends and that's the story they told). Can't really fathom the staged commercial version, but then there was no money to be had back then for just climbing well. But, if that's all you're going to do, the money has to come from somewhere.

Huh? Mythos are about as stiff as flip-flops. TC Pros are the new 'Kaukulators'.

So a guy climbs a cliff enabled and protected solely by the fact fixed pro has been installed for him to do it, otherwise he wouldn't be there in the first place. Got it.

As a atheist who's 'born again' every day, that's just way more faith than I can muster.

If he had put the bolts in it likely would have been clearer they were unecessary, but it sounds like a dab or two of epoxy would fix it either way.

Yeah, the Rat collective. It isn't over the edge of a road like Ozone, it's instead right there in plain sight and a tad too public in a busy, heavy-use area. Sooner or later it will likely draw some attention from the commission and it will go way better if they've made some attempt to 'fit in' and be 'good faith' user segment relative to the way the Act is interpreted and enforced. If folks are done there it's one thing, but if the idea is they plan on continuing to climb there and develop it further they should give some serious consideration to lowering their visual impact as I've seen how this sort of thing can go down at windsurfing sites over the years. 'Fuck off' might feel good, but likely won't play well if and when it hits the radar. With you on the boltless hole thing. Don't do it near protectable rock and if you're going to put a hole in the rock then might as well put something solid and camo'd in it.

Speaking of camo'd hangers - if a certain crew of PDX cave dwellers were smart, they'd camo all their hangers and chains; they'd also swap out all the colored tat for gray and black webbing only. Otherwise I suspect, sooner or later, the commish is going to be down on them in a big way as it's just too visible and accessible to the public. Not like it would be that tough a job either - hell, so easy even a caveman could do it. P.S. I'd recommend http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=31 (the dark gray / black, third from the left) used with a cardboard cutout mask during spraying

No one has ever built a structure remotely this complex or large using these design, material, or manufacturing technologies. The Dreamliner team also didn't make the big call they were saddle with on divvying the plane substructures up to different countries and subcontractors for sales/political reasons; they also have no control over Boeing's supply chain management. Both the team and Boeing management are learning what works and what doesn't in the process. The composite and design technology development and use over the course of the project has been nothing short of stunning and have greatly advanced the state of numerous arts. The planes' final delivery date isn't the priority - rushing Dreamliners out the door could have been done, but it would have come at the expense of getting the overall buid processes ironed out. And overcoming the fundamental and unavoidable shortcomings of the decision to farm major assemblies out, and distributed supply chain control nightmares associated with it, is part and parcel with those decisions - decisions made by Boeing execs and imposed on the Dreamliner team.

You'd have to check in with Bill Coe and his partners for the naked climbing action - I'm sure he's posted it up here somewhere several times now - besides, I don't even own any roller skates.

Not at all, the project has been exceedingly well managed and those managers have been given the authority to push back the schedule to get it right. The problems have mostly been with structural analysis of mated assemblies across large scale joints - scaling up the structural analyses. At every step of the way they do physical tests to validate and verify their models, and that allows them to hone the software. But it's an iterative cycle that takes a few times through the hoops to get right. I take the fact they've delayed delivery several times now as a very good thing and a sign the project is being well managed.

It's a great project and has pushed the boundaries of how large manufactured structures are designed. An amazing amount of software has been advanced due to the Dreamliner which has been entirely computer-designed. That experience certainly hasn't been flawless, the structure analysis software has been a work in progress relative to analysis of larger and larger composite structures and assemblies. The feedback loop from design > analysis > manufacture and back to design and analysis has brought us leaps forward in our capabilities to design, build, and assemble large structures with computer models alone. That the first significant project of this scale has had to go through the loop a few times is to be expected - and the real payoff won't be with the Dreamliner itself, but rather the designs that follow it.

I only have a stance that could be classified as sitting about a quarter of the time. Sitting is in no way a necessary stance for a good hip belay which dependent on the stancing available. A single non-locking biner through the harness loops clipped to the rope going to the climber is all that is require to make the belay 'omni-directional'. If the rope is anywhere near your kidneys you aren't doing a hip belay, you're doing a stomach belay. The rope should stay down on your hips (just under your harness loops), it should never be above the top of your hip bones. I teach well-stanced hip belays in all sorts of stances - sitting, standing, and everything inbetween depending on what's available for the best stance. A munter is a suck thing to do to a rope; I would never use one for anything whatsoever except in a rescue scenario. Depends on how you tie them, the way we always did they are entirely comfortable. Phillip has seen the green harness enough so we'll spare him, but sometimes I still have to skip a harness if I'm just visiting or wander onto the scene of someone working a problem as a tourist. Last time I was in the New York with my wife and daughter it wasn't a climbing trip, it was an NYC / Broadway trip, but I talked them into a drive to the Gunks and a walk on the sulky trails and around the grounds of the Mowhonk Mountain House. In the course of the walk we stopped watched some folks working a roof problem and I eventually asked if I could have a quick ride on it. They looked at me quizzedly and said, 'but you don't have any gear...?' - no problem. Barefoot, tied in to the end of the rope, and no chalk to do it. Comes in handy sometimes and is also plenty comfortable to fall, hang, and lower in. Phillip, you should come out with me sometime and give the new route a look...

Haven't gone over to look. Each of the past two falls when I've been in whatever constituted my "best shape" of the year I've been working on roofs at Beacon. Will have to make a point of stopping to check it out this year. Given I've lost my FA partner to Eldo recently I am looking for a new partner to tackle the ongoing project roofs; anyone intersted and completely confident with their [marginal and unknown] trad skills way off the deck in the .11+/.12- range should pm me. (P.S. Gotta dash and go climbing...)

So do you clip a bolt before every significant move?

In thirty five years of climbing I've never done a tandem rappel or had any need to do one. And tie-off or escape a belay? No more trouble than with a belay device.

I was recently told the wasps weren't a problem on Jill's. Maybe they just meant they didn't get stung. Who knows, maybe it's a wasp-based personality test.