Kevin_Matlock

Climb: [TR] Desperation stoke... Ski Bowl, Mt Hood- Date of Climb: 11/11/2006 Trip Report: Due to a strictly anti-guy event (baby shower) held at my house, I had to toss the skis in the van and head up. The conditions looked 'good enough' by the time I got to ski bowl so I just bailed off 26 and geared up. Passing by the pro shop the dude pops his head out and said "wow, your the first one I've seen so far this year". That should have been my first clue. The second clue should have been that about 5 minutes into skinning the snow turned into sleet, then rain. There is a range of up to a foot down low, to well over a foot up on the summit. Pretty heavy concrete even by Cascade standards. Would have been better with a consolitated layer underneath but none to be had. I pitty the next fool trying to follow my "line" down Reynolds! Step, step, step... start sliding... FALL. Step, step, step, start sliding.... FALL. This got old pretty quick. Finally found a few turns on lower Reynolds. Be prepared for a lot of trudging until the base layer sets up. Might have been better with a warm wax or maybe a layer of crisco? But... a "bad" day in the mountains still beats a good day eating pink cupcakes and looking at baby clothes. Gear Notes: Rock skis & skins... shoulda had an umbrella at times and a weed whacker for the shit poking through the blanket. Approach Notes: Just follow my tracks up the mt. bike trail if they aren't covered by all the new pow.

My old 2wd van didn't hold a candle to my syncro. Yup, the syncros are the way to go for snowing conditions. I have pretty aggressive all terrain BFGs on my van and it doesn't have a problem at all. In REALLY bad conditions I scored some really nice European tire chains for all 4 corners.... I can typically trudge along at 40mph in the snow without even noticing much.

I could probably write a ton about them, but I'll try to be brief. You talking about the bus (up to '79), the vanagon (80-91), or the eurovan? Regarding the vanagons, I'll just go on the books as saying "I love 'em" (just look at my f'n avatar). I've owned two of them: '80 camper and now a '90 syncro westi. The syncro camper's rock but can be hard to find, expensive to purchase, and the drive train can be costly to repair. But there aren't a lot of cars out there that you can sleep 4 adults, with a sink/fridge/stove. It beats the hell out of having to screw with a tent when you are car camping, too. For my solo adventures (and even with a buddy) it's plenty roomy and comfortable. Are they unreliable? Not at all. It's like all cars... there are lemons out there and you MUST do preventative maint (the usual easy stuff) on them so they don't totally fall apart. This is no different than any other 20 year old vehicle. Downsides: yeah they are slow on hills. I'd also avoid the automatics since you just don't have the same feel for the gear and the tranny will constantly be up/down shifting on hills. A manual you can just stick in 3rd and work your way up slowly. Another problem is that these can sometimes suck in strong winds... you can often feel ever head wind and gusty cross wind. Only other thoughts are: eurovan - bigger engines but lower ground clearance vanagons - try and stick with the later years (86 on) since you have the slightly larger engine and you get "real" heat (stick with the water cooled vanagons). bus - shitty heat and just flat out "old technology", but they can be cool. Had a friend that drives a '67 camper and there isn't much he can't do with his. See my profile, then see my webpage listed... somewhere on there (go to the home page) you can see a link that will show you a page on my cars. From there you can see some pictures and more comments about my vans. I'd just stick the link in this post but I can't get to my site from here at work. So, let's summarize: they are cool if you don't mind a slightly slower drive. I'll probably never get rid of the one that I have now!

With the new permit system in place, do they really have an "off" season? I'd be pleasantly surprised to hear that you can climb it for free and without reservation at ANY point during the year (like the dead of winter). Chad, are you for-sure? I really don't know myself; just wondering.

bike helmets by Petzel, jeans by Mountain Hardware???? wonder if their rope was off of their mother's clothes line... oh yeah, you didn't mention anything about rope. good job on your summit.

My guess is that many people fancy themselves as "too good for 5.7". Bunch of freakin' climbing snobs. PRG is a little far from me, but if you ever have reason to make your way over to Club Sport, I'd probably be down for a session or two. I've been climbing longer than you, but not a lot harder so we'd probably be pretty compatible. (Just read your signature...) Oh yeah, we would DEFINITELY be compatible. PM me sometime if you are interested in climbing at out the club.

got half way through the TR and thought "what the fuck is he talking about????" or "was I on some other climb???". what he said. also don't be taken in by the idea of a climbers trail to/from Hunts cove. instead just invest the extra 1/2 mile or so and take the PCT.

i've always wondered why people who climb this time of year don't go to the hog's and jump over to the West Crater Rim slope? never been up there this time of year but it's gotta be better than the pearly gates right now. anybody?

Nice report and awesome pics! Looks tasty.

All praise the mighty IPA gods! Oh, and the climb was fun, too. Good times, Jon! Additional gear note: 60 meters is pretty much required to reach from the "main" rap point down to the saddle. Leave the 50M rope in the car unless you wanna down climb some. If you want to set pro, take pieces in the 1" range and don't futz with 'em much since they probably won't hold anyway.

I'm just guessing, but this has GOT to be due to the fact that many sportOs don't like more than, say, a 10 minute "approach" to the crag of their choice. I mean, some of the hardest pullers seem to be the laziest people! I guess I fall into the other category of "dumb enough to hike for miles with heavy gear just to pick off a 5.2". Luckily for me I suck at technical climbing so I don't realize what I'm missing. enelson - PMs

Suppose this post could go in "rock climbing" or "oregon", but oh well.... Has anyone climbed at the 1/4 mile long crag on the longer leg of the Ramona Falls loop? Some of the rock looks shitty but other sections look like it would go (if you can handle the 2 mile trail approach). Anyone know if this area has a name other than " the 1/4 mile long crag on the longer leg of the Ramona Falls loop "? Beta anybody?

elliot glacier.... on Hood.

Wow, that's a bitch. It was pretty crowded huh? Yep, your typical DMV-style line. By the time we got to the saddle (aka "the waiting room") we looked at the number in our hand: #483. Unfortunately over the summit loud speaker they announced "now serving #6". Oh well, it just gave us some time to watch the folley coming off the top. When it was our turn we had the entire summit block to ourselves. Here's the man himself rapping the top.... notice his big toothy grin since it was a ghost town by the time started down. larger image Good trip and good after-climb refreshments were waiting back at the van...

mp 76 is about a mile west of dee wright obsrv. you can still get to the obsidian th.

Having a hard time seeing your pic. Planning on going up this Sunday, maybe I should bring my flame-retardant rope? Any other fire beta... will this be a hazard or will it just obscure the views?

It's been a couple years since I've been up Washington... just trying to recall how long the rap is on the first pitch on the north ridge? You know, from the block with all the slings down to the saddle. 50' at the most if memory serves, but just don't remember if this is correct. thanx

About the only info I have is that I found a bolted pitch when I was hiking on French Creek Ridge about a week ago. This is found on Marten Butte. Not sure if this is the "wall" you are talking about though. Take the French Creek trail (can give you details if you don't know where this is) toward Mt. Beachie about 2 miles. When you get to the Butte, continue around it another 1/4 mile. This will bring you to the more shaded side of the formation with much better rock. Keep looking up to your right and at a dark stain on the rock you will see a couple of hangers/tat/bail biner. That's about all I know though.

Opal Creek area above Detroit Lk? If so, I have a tiny bit of beta for you.

dino - you located in PDX? Me too. You interested in a scramble up little brother on Sat? The description I have sounds easy but I'm getting stir crazy and need to hit the hills. PM me if you are interested and I'll give you more details.

Have rope/rack/some experience. Mostly into scramles and mild alpine rock and not so much "5.impossible". Likely headed out by myself on a scramble Sat... all are welcome. Where are all of you located? I'm in the greater Portland area.

check yer PMs

re: Slog's Back - did it last weekend. The bridge over the crevasse looked close to punching through. The route this year seemed different to me. The conga line up the Hog diverts right and regains the ridge up a brief but steeper slope (60 degree? Anybody?). Earlier in the year the route went left around the headwall, now it's going back through the gates. Save yourself a lot of hassle by bringing a second tool and just free the west rim or take the short cut by freeing the left chute, thus bypassing the roped-up yokels. The second tool isn't required, but woulda been nice for the brief exposure.

I agree. Just take the relative stroll up the south as a gauge. If you got your asses handed to you before, you aren't going to find anything easier on cooper.