Kevin_Matlock

Funny, I said "If that's what you want to do, then I say go for it." Not "Yes, this is the same as summitting anyway, so do it". When's the last time you climbed it from PDX? Sandy? How bout even govy? Yeah, I thought not. You want an "experience", try experiencing something before you harsh on it. Why assume to pass judgement on someone else's definition of a good time? Since I've only climb from tline I can't comment on other ways up it, nor should you.

The way I heard it the rest of you gay wads fiddle with your friends?

What the faq is he skiing on???? And I suppose he would call this a "wonderful powder day"... I'm gonna go ahead and make the stretch by claiming he's a better skier than me.

You need a snow park permit 11-15 to 4-30. Not sure how anal they will be this close to the end of the window though. Snow cat? Yeah, plenty enough people "climb" using this method. Have no idea how one hops a ride though (probably group reserved?). If that's what you want to do, then I say go for it. It's not much different from someone starting at 6k' @ tline saying they bagged the summit. One could argue that the only ones who honestly climbed it started in Seaside (sea level). Don't get hung up on someone else's definition of a summit. Like Liquor said... unless you are roping up, leave all the extra shit in the car. Snowshoes or skis will probably make life easier on the unconsolidated fluff you will find in a lot of places, but isn't absolutely required to summit. Be prepared to fight in spots though, or start early (i.e. midnight) and hope you can keep on the frozen stuff for as long as possible.

These guys aint shit.... one time I slipped on the ice in my driveway and you don't hear me braggin' bout that now do you! (I think I'm going to retire my tools and take up knitting now )

Yeah, no shit....

Thanks John! Rat hole? I'll take cheese as pro.

I have still to locate the elusive Lake O crag. You aren't talking about Waterboard in Ore City are you? THAT one I've found (and was small-ish). Directions?

Is this an assumption that one would be doing a lot of climbing WITH the tent in tow? Seems to me, most of the "popular" expedition tents (NF Mt 25, MH Trangos, etc) have the rain fly and vesti so they are 2 wall. True, probably heavier, but it seems most go this route. Side question, anybody have any experience with the MH Trango Assault? All I know is it's suppose to be a tiny bit smaller than the Trango 2, but is that the only difference? I wish the hell MH had some sort of "intended use" or a "why the hell we made this specific model of tent" on their web site since some of the models seem awefully similar. Hard to tell what they had in mind when they developed one tent versus another.

Jesus Christ! Doesn't anybody speak english anymore? When I was young we didn't have "plabs" and "whoomps" and such. We had to walk, up hill both ways, to enjoy the snow.

Hey John, just wondering what came of your super-secret-ultra-cool-construction-crag-project that you were working on? I sorta thought you were planning some kind of "grand opening" so to speak. Just ran out of steam/time/money/interest or are you trying to keep it under wraps just to maintain the area? "none of your bidness" and/or "go find your own" are valid responses.

Huh. That almost sounds like sarcasm. I'm trying to contribute; what are you doing? Anyway, for the rest... use it for what you will. For Dru...

Over the last 4 days took a marathon drive with the wife up to Banff and the ice fields parkway. Looks to be some fun possibilities from place to place. Since I've never been there before, can't say how it stacks up to other years, but the locals kept saying "jeez, it's warm, eh?" so maybe a lot of the better shit has fallen? Anyway, just to give you an idea of some of the areas that we saw... Weeping wall (saw a couple guys hitting it; looked sweet) - http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=16098&size=big&sort=1&cat=500 From Numti Jah Lodge. Note the two lines on either side of the hanging glacier in the distance. Saw several people coming from this area. Don't know any route details, but looked promissing from a distance - http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=16097&size=big&sort=1&cat=500 Lots of shorter climbs right off the road at Tangle creek/falls. I really wanted to get the gear out in this area for some solo fun, but we were on a tight schedule. Note my sorry ass for scale on the first blob right off the road (keep in mind that I stand 17 feet tall for what that's worth! ) http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=16096&size=big&sort=1&cat=500 A taller section at Tangle creek was up a short distance above the preceeding picture. I bet this area was really fun and it looked fat! Here is Tangle creek area - http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=16100&size=big&sort=1&cat=500 A long, continuous line could also be found right out of Banff. Saw a dood out on it, as well (no pics). Avy conditions weren't bad (didn't see any cut loose and slight accumulations). The roads were lightly packed to dry. Totally mind blowing area; go for the climbing, stay for the scenery! http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=16101&size=big&sort=1&cat=500 Next time I'll have to plan the time better since I was on such a tight ass schedule I couldn't do shit! I'll also have to buy a god damn book so I can find out what the rest of the areas were that I saw. Go get some!

Dougie, where are you located? I just got back this afternoon from a marathon Banff/Jasper sight-seeing trip but didn't have time to climb. What area were you thinking... I might be interested in flying into Edmonton and driving down through the ice field parkway to a couple of areas ( few of hour drive from Ed. ). I'm intersted in some of the easy routes, too! Let me know and I could see how realistic this plan could be for me.

Hey, thanks for the specifics. You forgot to mention that their gear is icky and stupid and dumb... Ah, that's more like it. Since the original post was asking about axes, I have to say that I have a Cassin Ghost and it's pretty nice. All aluminum construction, but oddly so is the axe head. Super light and a great axe for doing the whole light and fast thing. If you need something that will last on an extended trip, I would take something else though (with some steel parts).

That's another thing on mine I forgot to mention. I just stuck a couple of 4x4s on my wall with wood screws. It's a lame, shallow crack but I guess it's ok. But, what do I know, I still suck at crack climbing. The wood was too slick, too, so I just sprayed some of that fake rock texture spray paint on it. It helped, but tends to rub off at some use. Works ok and is "only" like $6 a can.

consider yourself bitch slapped!

Last year I built a 10x10 wall. I, too, made a part of my wall adjustable. Makes for a really nice option to be able to mess with the angle. I have mine setup to allow straight up 90 and to go over hung to about 60 degrees with 5 different "settings". Variety is the spice... Since mine isn't all that tall, I found that doing laps horizontally about the only way to get a decent pump. Pretty much just doing laps in a figure-8 pattern. I would suggest getting plenty of jugs. It's much more convenient to climb I've found that I was climbing a lot more on crimpers and started stressing my finger tendons. Jugs will allow you to get your pump on (and will save the finger tendons somewhat). In addition to plastics, I've also screwed on a bunch of scraps of manufactured stone; you know, the kind that they stick on the front of houses. You can probably get this for free from contruction sites if you ask nice (I have a buddy that is in construction so I scored). I like climbing on this stuff since it's much closer to real stone and I also can practice some DTing bouldering. The plastics just can't take abuse of tools. You have to be more careful with the stone scraps, and pre-drill everything, but they work ok and I have only blown a couple of pieces. Don't over tighten them! I have a couple of large holds that I've made from 1" wafer board (MDF would probably also work, but doesn't have the same grippy texture). I just cut out a blob shape, sanded the edges, and stuck another piece behind it that is 1" less on all edges. The two pieces are glued together to form one large hold. I then have about a dozen long wood screws holding it on the wall. Makes it nice to use as an undercling, layback, mantel, whatever... I just move it's orientation around from time to time. Lastly, make lots of problems. Both easy ones, and ones you can't do yet. Again... variety, variety, variety. You have to keep yourself interested or you won't use it.

I'm headed there this weekend and need region beta. Anybody know of a good online road map of the area? Maybe it's time to hit up AAA. I've never been there so I'm just playing it by ear. I'm taking the wife up there to be tourists but will be packing the gear "just in case" (that's the story I'm telling her anyway). What is a good road to drive to see the sights and "accidently" find some easy stuff to go boulder out on? Thanks for any info, and pretty sweet pics!

Oleg, just skinned up white river to around 6k' yesterday and it was damn close to white out conditions. Can only assume it's worse over/up there. If the weather clears some, let me know if you want a second... I'd be down for it.

Woohoo... at least we're gettin some this year! I'm bailing out of work early today to go hit it.

Then the 400's must have NO parts listed anywhere. I have the 404s and have a hard time finding much for them. Anyone know a source for poons? Pretty sure they exist (seem to recall seeing a picture or two), but can't find much for the 404 in general.

Given that... you all! If this was really true, wouldn't this effectively shut down all of CC.com?

Side question - exactly how strong are these things anyhow? I realise part of the answer is "depends on the ice", but they just don't seem strong to me. I know these are used frequently and when no other alternative exists, but they seem pretty dicey to me. What the minimum you would rely on for your rap... 1, 2, 3, or ??? And, these aren't built as protection, but mostly just to rap, correct? Nobody is building a belay station solely out of these, are they?

Personally, I'd just save my money and hook up with someone with experience (on this board for example) to point the way up the mountain. Do something less technical, like the slog on hood, adams, middle/south sis, etc are straight forward enough for a newbie. And done in the winter, they can feel pretty extreme, too. I guess the point I'm trying to make is that it's not a requirement to hire a professional guide service to get you up a mountain. Hell, by your description, your workout program probably has you in better shape than many of the keyboard jockey, spray lords on this site! Just make a post on the partners forumn and state your intention and an honest assesment of your skills. There are plenty of decent people out there that wouldn't mind sharing their knowledge. My .02.