Kevin_Matlock

Having a hard time seeing your pic. Planning on going up this Sunday, maybe I should bring my flame-retardant rope? Any other fire beta... will this be a hazard or will it just obscure the views?

It's been a couple years since I've been up Washington... just trying to recall how long the rap is on the first pitch on the north ridge? You know, from the block with all the slings down to the saddle. 50' at the most if memory serves, but just don't remember if this is correct. thanx

About the only info I have is that I found a bolted pitch when I was hiking on French Creek Ridge about a week ago. This is found on Marten Butte. Not sure if this is the "wall" you are talking about though. Take the French Creek trail (can give you details if you don't know where this is) toward Mt. Beachie about 2 miles. When you get to the Butte, continue around it another 1/4 mile. This will bring you to the more shaded side of the formation with much better rock. Keep looking up to your right and at a dark stain on the rock you will see a couple of hangers/tat/bail biner. That's about all I know though.

Opal Creek area above Detroit Lk? If so, I have a tiny bit of beta for you.

dino - you located in PDX? Me too. You interested in a scramble up little brother on Sat? The description I have sounds easy but I'm getting stir crazy and need to hit the hills. PM me if you are interested and I'll give you more details.

Have rope/rack/some experience. Mostly into scramles and mild alpine rock and not so much "5.impossible". Likely headed out by myself on a scramble Sat... all are welcome. Where are all of you located? I'm in the greater Portland area.

check yer PMs

re: Slog's Back - did it last weekend. The bridge over the crevasse looked close to punching through. The route this year seemed different to me. The conga line up the Hog diverts right and regains the ridge up a brief but steeper slope (60 degree? Anybody?). Earlier in the year the route went left around the headwall, now it's going back through the gates. Save yourself a lot of hassle by bringing a second tool and just free the west rim or take the short cut by freeing the left chute, thus bypassing the roped-up yokels. The second tool isn't required, but woulda been nice for the brief exposure.

I agree. Just take the relative stroll up the south as a gauge. If you got your asses handed to you before, you aren't going to find anything easier on cooper.

Funny, I said "If that's what you want to do, then I say go for it." Not "Yes, this is the same as summitting anyway, so do it". When's the last time you climbed it from PDX? Sandy? How bout even govy? Yeah, I thought not. You want an "experience", try experiencing something before you harsh on it. Why assume to pass judgement on someone else's definition of a good time? Since I've only climb from tline I can't comment on other ways up it, nor should you.

The way I heard it the rest of you gay wads fiddle with your friends?

What the faq is he skiing on???? And I suppose he would call this a "wonderful powder day"... I'm gonna go ahead and make the stretch by claiming he's a better skier than me.

You need a snow park permit 11-15 to 4-30. Not sure how anal they will be this close to the end of the window though. Snow cat? Yeah, plenty enough people "climb" using this method. Have no idea how one hops a ride though (probably group reserved?). If that's what you want to do, then I say go for it. It's not much different from someone starting at 6k' @ tline saying they bagged the summit. One could argue that the only ones who honestly climbed it started in Seaside (sea level). Don't get hung up on someone else's definition of a summit. Like Liquor said... unless you are roping up, leave all the extra shit in the car. Snowshoes or skis will probably make life easier on the unconsolidated fluff you will find in a lot of places, but isn't absolutely required to summit. Be prepared to fight in spots though, or start early (i.e. midnight) and hope you can keep on the frozen stuff for as long as possible.

These guys aint shit.... one time I slipped on the ice in my driveway and you don't hear me braggin' bout that now do you! (I think I'm going to retire my tools and take up knitting now )

Yeah, no shit....

Thanks John! Rat hole? I'll take cheese as pro.

I have still to locate the elusive Lake O crag. You aren't talking about Waterboard in Ore City are you? THAT one I've found (and was small-ish). Directions?

Is this an assumption that one would be doing a lot of climbing WITH the tent in tow? Seems to me, most of the "popular" expedition tents (NF Mt 25, MH Trangos, etc) have the rain fly and vesti so they are 2 wall. True, probably heavier, but it seems most go this route. Side question, anybody have any experience with the MH Trango Assault? All I know is it's suppose to be a tiny bit smaller than the Trango 2, but is that the only difference? I wish the hell MH had some sort of "intended use" or a "why the hell we made this specific model of tent" on their web site since some of the models seem awefully similar. Hard to tell what they had in mind when they developed one tent versus another.

Jesus Christ! Doesn't anybody speak english anymore? When I was young we didn't have "plabs" and "whoomps" and such. We had to walk, up hill both ways, to enjoy the snow.

Hey John, just wondering what came of your super-secret-ultra-cool-construction-crag-project that you were working on? I sorta thought you were planning some kind of "grand opening" so to speak. Just ran out of steam/time/money/interest or are you trying to keep it under wraps just to maintain the area? "none of your bidness" and/or "go find your own" are valid responses.

Huh. That almost sounds like sarcasm. I'm trying to contribute; what are you doing? Anyway, for the rest... use it for what you will. For Dru...

Over the last 4 days took a marathon drive with the wife up to Banff and the ice fields parkway. Looks to be some fun possibilities from place to place. Since I've never been there before, can't say how it stacks up to other years, but the locals kept saying "jeez, it's warm, eh?" so maybe a lot of the better shit has fallen? Anyway, just to give you an idea of some of the areas that we saw... Weeping wall (saw a couple guys hitting it; looked sweet) - http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=16098&size=big&sort=1&cat=500 From Numti Jah Lodge. Note the two lines on either side of the hanging glacier in the distance. Saw several people coming from this area. Don't know any route details, but looked promissing from a distance - http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=16097&size=big&sort=1&cat=500 Lots of shorter climbs right off the road at Tangle creek/falls. I really wanted to get the gear out in this area for some solo fun, but we were on a tight schedule. Note my sorry ass for scale on the first blob right off the road (keep in mind that I stand 17 feet tall for what that's worth! ) http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=16096&size=big&sort=1&cat=500 A taller section at Tangle creek was up a short distance above the preceeding picture. I bet this area was really fun and it looked fat! Here is Tangle creek area - http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=16100&size=big&sort=1&cat=500 A long, continuous line could also be found right out of Banff. Saw a dood out on it, as well (no pics). Avy conditions weren't bad (didn't see any cut loose and slight accumulations). The roads were lightly packed to dry. Totally mind blowing area; go for the climbing, stay for the scenery! http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=16101&size=big&sort=1&cat=500 Next time I'll have to plan the time better since I was on such a tight ass schedule I couldn't do shit! I'll also have to buy a god damn book so I can find out what the rest of the areas were that I saw. Go get some!

Dougie, where are you located? I just got back this afternoon from a marathon Banff/Jasper sight-seeing trip but didn't have time to climb. What area were you thinking... I might be interested in flying into Edmonton and driving down through the ice field parkway to a couple of areas ( few of hour drive from Ed. ). I'm intersted in some of the easy routes, too! Let me know and I could see how realistic this plan could be for me.

Hey, thanks for the specifics. You forgot to mention that their gear is icky and stupid and dumb... Ah, that's more like it. Since the original post was asking about axes, I have to say that I have a Cassin Ghost and it's pretty nice. All aluminum construction, but oddly so is the axe head. Super light and a great axe for doing the whole light and fast thing. If you need something that will last on an extended trip, I would take something else though (with some steel parts).