Kevin_Matlock

I'm pondering a scenario: You are going to start off on a solo climb up an already bolted route. At the base, there are NO good features or objects to use as an anchor for upward pull (it can be assumed that previous climbers had a belayer). Question - is it acceptable to place a couple of bolts with hangers at the base of the climb a couple of feet off the ground which would end up being used EXCLUSIVELY for an upward pull? "Hell no! Why are you drilling on an already established climb? If you can't make it work, then you shouldn't be soloing there" ...OR.... "Sure! After all, it's just completing the necessary protection for all climbers (both teams AND soloists) to climb" Instead of installing bolts with hangers, what about limiting it to a couple of rivets that are painted to blend in... does this even effect the answer? Haven't seen this done, nor have I done it. Just wondering.

Skis.... well, sometimes not. Most of the time, "hell ya", but if the conditions are really firm then you can expect full on ice up high and you'll just end up having to carry them down anyway. I'm only saying this because I've already done this once this year!!!

What are you after... easy or hard, free/trad/aid?

BillCOE, sorry, guess I should have indicated billBOB. Climbed with him before so I was just reconnecting with him. Yeah, I'm in Gents classes... I'll tell him 'hi'. RE: rocky, yeah I've been heavily considering getting back out there but am a little paranoid of getting my van busted into by the tweakers. I might invite myself if I can convince my flabby slacker ass that I can keep up with the rest of you (or just show up to belay).

I noticed that ACR had this new unit, too. Makes a person wonder if you are going to start seeing the previous model (a little larger/heavier) for something under $TotallyOverpriced and GiveMeABreak cents. Older or newer unit looks roughly the same size and weight though; still "about a pound".

Yep, sometimes you gotta take them off to be sure. But given the question of "should I lug crampons up", I'd always say yes.

Bill, when do you and son go? I'll be there this Wed for a class.... you guys interested in climbing before hand? (5 or 6 would be perfect) Just such a rarity that I'm there so figured I'd ask.

Don't know how long it will take, but for what it's worth, try to find some info on "the dark divide". This is Indian Heaven forest land, but the dark divide was an obscure name that apparently was the trail between these peaks. South on Adams can be done with crampons; no need for rope.

Personally, I'd never go up without pons; ever.

Never been before, but I'm sure someone will tell you the pioneer route on monkey face (smith). Pretty much all other crags are fair game provided that you are climbing clean. I've climbed clean aid on sport climbs on almost all the local portland crags; it's out there, just gotta go do it. Where are you located? You had a certain part of OR in mind?

Cluck, nice photo essay for the masses! A picture is worth a thousand sprays.... good job and thanks for putting forth the effort.

this would make a cool desktop image. the hiking looks fun, if not a bit sloggish.

ivan, you'd do luethold, cooper, THEN sunshine???? never been on sunshine, but JT in Ore High makes it sounds like a relative cake walk.... almost hogs back in nature.

They've never been ok, IMHO. Not meaning to turn this into yet another "dog vs. no-dog" thread, but why would you drag your mut up there unless you plan on (a) keeping him on a leash AT ALL TIMES, (b) blue bag his crap, and © keep him from barking at all wild animals or other people up there. Seems few ppl w/dogs are considerate of others when I've seen them on the trails.

How about that rubberized paint crap that you can dip tool handles into? Not ice tools, but pliers, screw drivers, etc. I know nothing about this stuff, but it's suppose to remain pliable and I'm wondering if you coated it with a thin coat......????

Here's what I heard: "blah blah blah ski... blah blah blah pow... blah blah blah INVERSION IPA ... blah blah blah some other stuff..." God that's good shit! Actually the skiing looks nice. You guys have full corn over there in Bend(over)? Might have to make a point to get over there.

I've seen this come and go, fast one minute then slow the next. Currently pretty quick though!

I did, no dice. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=18&Number=597743&Searchpage=4&Main=45182&Words=cleaning+cam&topic=0&Search=true#Post597743 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=18&Number=482967&Searchpage=9&Main=35569&Words=Kevin_Matlock&topic=0&Search=true#Post482967

When? Pretty much when they don't feel smooth or you think they may bind. How? I use the metolious cleaning kit but others don't like to buy this kit. This topic has been covered fairly well before... might want to do a search.

Love these type of DIY posts (rare on CC.com). Good work Chad!

I just sucked it up yesterday; figured I'd give it a whirl and return it if it didn't last. Used my 20% it ran me only $79! One of my issues was that they only had a single med size the first day I went and look... I wanted a large. Having the chick at the counter look up their stock didn't do me a bit of good since she said that's all they had. After I went yesterday to pick that med one up I found a few more including a large! The lesson here is it pays to look around no matter what their system claims.

Well, DUH! Isn't it obvious?

Do tell! I was surprised by the number of load adjustment straps. Made me think that you could dial it in pretty well so the fit was the least of my worries. Interesting....

Would be interesting to see how many volunteers from the aeronautics community volunteered to help with the rescue.

Looked at this yesterday. Seems pretty feature-rich and perfect for a day climb (probably could swing a single night in a pinch). Besides all the bells and whistles, anybody have any experience with this pack's reliability? Just wondering how long it will last. Not worried about the "return factor" since it IS, after all, REI. I'm just wondering if I should expect this pack to blow out mid-climb. Would like to know before plunking down my hard-earned 20%-off membership coupon! Any other impressions? REI Pinnacle Pack