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Kevin_Matlock

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Everything posted by Kevin_Matlock

  1. That's another thing on mine I forgot to mention. I just stuck a couple of 4x4s on my wall with wood screws. It's a lame, shallow crack but I guess it's ok. But, what do I know, I still suck at crack climbing. The wood was too slick, too, so I just sprayed some of that fake rock texture spray paint on it. It helped, but tends to rub off at some use. Works ok and is "only" like $6 a can.
  2. Last year I built a 10x10 wall. I, too, made a part of my wall adjustable. Makes for a really nice option to be able to mess with the angle. I have mine setup to allow straight up 90 and to go over hung to about 60 degrees with 5 different "settings". Variety is the spice... Since mine isn't all that tall, I found that doing laps horizontally about the only way to get a decent pump. Pretty much just doing laps in a figure-8 pattern. I would suggest getting plenty of jugs. It's much more convenient to climb I've found that I was climbing a lot more on crimpers and started stressing my finger tendons. Jugs will allow you to get your pump on (and will save the finger tendons somewhat). In addition to plastics, I've also screwed on a bunch of scraps of manufactured stone; you know, the kind that they stick on the front of houses. You can probably get this for free from contruction sites if you ask nice (I have a buddy that is in construction so I scored). I like climbing on this stuff since it's much closer to real stone and I also can practice some DTing bouldering. The plastics just can't take abuse of tools. You have to be more careful with the stone scraps, and pre-drill everything, but they work ok and I have only blown a couple of pieces. Don't over tighten them! I have a couple of large holds that I've made from 1" wafer board (MDF would probably also work, but doesn't have the same grippy texture). I just cut out a blob shape, sanded the edges, and stuck another piece behind it that is 1" less on all edges. The two pieces are glued together to form one large hold. I then have about a dozen long wood screws holding it on the wall. Makes it nice to use as an undercling, layback, mantel, whatever... I just move it's orientation around from time to time. Lastly, make lots of problems. Both easy ones, and ones you can't do yet. Again... variety, variety, variety. You have to keep yourself interested or you won't use it.
  3. I'm headed there this weekend and need region beta. Anybody know of a good online road map of the area? Maybe it's time to hit up AAA. I've never been there so I'm just playing it by ear. I'm taking the wife up there to be tourists but will be packing the gear "just in case" (that's the story I'm telling her anyway). What is a good road to drive to see the sights and "accidently" find some easy stuff to go boulder out on? Thanks for any info, and pretty sweet pics!
  4. Oleg, just skinned up white river to around 6k' yesterday and it was damn close to white out conditions. Can only assume it's worse over/up there. If the weather clears some, let me know if you want a second... I'd be down for it.
  5. Woohoo... at least we're gettin some this year! I'm bailing out of work early today to go hit it.
  6. Then the 400's must have NO parts listed anywhere. I have the 404s and have a hard time finding much for them. Anyone know a source for poons? Pretty sure they exist (seem to recall seeing a picture or two), but can't find much for the 404 in general.
  7. Given that... you all! If this was really true, wouldn't this effectively shut down all of CC.com?
  8. Side question - exactly how strong are these things anyhow? I realise part of the answer is "depends on the ice", but they just don't seem strong to me. I know these are used frequently and when no other alternative exists, but they seem pretty dicey to me. What the minimum you would rely on for your rap... 1, 2, 3, or ??? And, these aren't built as protection, but mostly just to rap, correct? Nobody is building a belay station solely out of these, are they?
  9. Personally, I'd just save my money and hook up with someone with experience (on this board for example) to point the way up the mountain. Do something less technical, like the slog on hood, adams, middle/south sis, etc are straight forward enough for a newbie. And done in the winter, they can feel pretty extreme, too. I guess the point I'm trying to make is that it's not a requirement to hire a professional guide service to get you up a mountain. Hell, by your description, your workout program probably has you in better shape than many of the keyboard jockey, spray lords on this site! Just make a post on the partners forumn and state your intention and an honest assesment of your skills. There are plenty of decent people out there that wouldn't mind sharing their knowledge. My .02.
  10. ...and, did either one of you guys need a break in period with your boots? Well, Oleg, you said yours were too small in the first place, so I guess that's not a fair question. Roger... were your dialed in right off the bat, or did you have to deal with pain on the first few trips? Thanks.
  11. Hey Oleg! Hows things? I saw you were trying to sell a pair of boots, but didn't realize it was the same F'n thing! I've already bought my... but I went with size 11 for my big gun boats. And they DO seem to be a major bitch if I got them wet; thus part of my dilema. Roger - you are spot on. Last night I threw my poons on the boots and it was a challenge at best... and this was with the boot loose in my lap. Can't imagine how much of a pain this would be with them all laced up on your feet. The salesman (Gavin @ Climbaxe... good guy, lots of help ) told me that you sometimes have to get the mallet out and litterally bash the toe bail into the front of the boot just to get the damn thing to seat. I might take an exacto knife to mine and very carefully cut the slot a little larger. But then again, maybe I'll just puss out. In playing with the boot last night I realized what that intermediate lace hook is for now. The guy at the store didn't know why La Sportiva has such an odd design. But now that I figured it out it's SWEET! It's so you can have 2 zones of lace tension. I used to do this with my hiking boots all the time, but I just laced them all wanky to make it work. La Sportiva's solution is really smart (provided that eye hook keeps it's grip over time). Thanks for the input guys; I'll probably just stick with and give them an honest trial.
  12. Uh.... when I banged in some arbitrary figures I got this: Are these guys optimists or what?
  13. Anyone have any experience with this boot? I had my mind set on double boots, until I saw these. They seem bomber, are lighter than doubles and seem just as stiff, but they are so much thinner and it's hard to imagine them being as warm as a double. I'm also not so sold on that fake leather in front of the tongue. Just wondering if anybody can put my mind at ease on my purchase... gotta make sure before I dirty them up and can't return them.
  14. He didn't get "Chuck Norris"... oops, wrong thread.
  15. I think his name is Jack or Wendy or somethin'
  16. And The Buger King is the real one pulling Vadar's strings and not that wimpy prick Palpatine??? I KNEW it!
  17. He got me at 20 and then again at 18. Jesus Christ how retarded... or maybe I am since I had to try it a second time.
  18. I climbed Mcloughlin a few years back in June (maybe it was July?)... expect nothing more than a long hike up a scree trail. No real route finding issues if you can follow paint spots on rocks. Coming down is a little trickier... not difficult, just trickier. On the way up, just keep turning around to see where you came from. In June of an average year, you can expect at least some snow patches at 9000' so be aware of that. Of course this varies year to year (this past snow year you would have had a clear trail all the way to the summit in March! ) I recall the bugs were pretty bad down low, too, but there was an awesome display of dragon files for the last thousand feet (including the summit). It was a nice hike from what I remember. Can't tell you anything about Scott though.
  19. camilo - your avatar is sick as fuck. i like it!
  20. Oh yeah, this is totally cool with most of the non-dickhead types. I've skinned up skibowl and tline many times without hassles. I've seen a few skin up at meadows, too. Technically they may have some sort of "rights" against you doing this, but if you just stay out of people's way and kept to the lessor traveled runs they wouldn't hassle you.
  21. I'm interested. Pics? Where are you... how much for shipping to 97062?
  22. an iPod Shuffle! (head band sold separately)
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