Kevin_Matlock

I have a thought on your last question: this just sounds bad to me. One of the reasons why a screamer works is because it SLOWS down the falling load (you!) by ripping the stictches. What you've described would actually shock your placement since the cording is basically static and you wouldn't get that slowing effect from the drag of the cord through the holes (or at least not much). I also don't think it's wise for the cord to rub in the holes. I know it's a short distance, but why put the sheath through the abuse?

I wasn't aware that John Travolta was a climber!

Climbing or posting TRs?

Absolutely. At first my hands got really hosed, too. I eventually figured out that just pinching the chalk ball applied chalk to pretty much just the last couple of digits on the fingers and this supplies all the hold I need. Besides, the chalk does nothing but dry up moisture anyway... it doesn't enable you to climb stuff that you normally wouldn't be able to so there is no need to cover the whole finger, palms, wrist, forearms, and just a dab behind the ears for good luck!

"Here Vomit Launch... fetch my slippers Vomit Launch... bad Vomit Launch...." . I think you've found a winner! Packer? Packy? (Something to do with packs) Trekker? Igloo? Freshize? Glacier? Boots? Parka? Shit Head (ala "The Jerk")? Nah... I still like Vomit Launch.

Yes, clearly. It sounded like the thing to ask for at the counter.... Ok, so I live, I learn. What would you suggest? 175 sound like a good starting point?

One of the guys at my gym mentioned that many people chalk as a "nervous habbit". Realistically many people could probably climb in a gym setting without even touching chalk except for greasy holds or slopers.

Doing my civic duty and reporting back. This reply is pretty much aimed at Obsydian's original question about bindings and anyone else who might be interested in trying this type of setup. First the gear: The skis (rentals ) were K2 Shuksans 195s with Silvretta 404 bindings. My boots are Koflachs (generic gray model... 'cheap-Os'). Bindings - The boots had a reasonable connection to the skis using the 404s, however they don't seem to have the same positive "click" that you get with a downhill setup. I found I had to crank up the din for my lardass because I found it easy to pop out on crashes (there were many ). Your toes are locked in with a toe bail so in really nasty crash it might not be pretty. Climbing - With skins, these skis f'n rocked! Very impressed with their traction and the ability to have the heels unlock. Using the climbing bars I sailed right up Palmer on Hood. I've done my fair share of snowshoeing and have to say that I would be willing to exchange them for this setup in many situtions (short of maybe steeper icy sections). There is good reason why many people use AT/randonee shit for skimountaineering. I have seen the light! Ski descent - Ok, now THIS was just plain stupid. Saying this "sucked" would be too nice. My skiing skills are very rusty and I should have gone with a shorter ski(should have tried 175s for this first time just to get the feel of 'em), but, that aside, the lack of feel I found with the climbing boots and the binding's tendency to release fairly easily made the whole descent a big joke. I really never appreciated how much more a good ski boot hugs your entire foot to allow you to steer the ski; a lace-up mountaineering boot simply can't provide this. Much too soft with it's pivotting ankle hinge. My advice - make sure your skills are at least "somewhat current" and try the setup with rando boots. Or as others have pointed out don't have your hopes up like I did. My .02 .

Yep. That's why I have my grinder going as slow as it can. Pretty much reminds me of the movies where a blacksmith is sharpening a sword on one of those large foot powered sharpening wheels. Yeah, my wheel is going faster, but it takes a while and some patience to get my tools "sharp". Yeah, I had half suspected this. Thanks for confirming this (and for the science lesson).

Interesting. As luck would have it, tomorrow I'm going to try my Koflachs with rando skis for the very first time. This will also be the first time back on skis in over 10 years. Should I die, I'd like to will the following gear.......

I agree that it would be easy to get carried away and mess up the grind angles, but I think that people are WAY too concerned about the temper. I used to sharpen percision blades on a buffing/grinding wheel when I worked in this factory. They were made of tempered steel and I was able to keep this almost entirely unaffected. Unless you heat up the metal to change the color, I doubt that you are going to do any more damage than if you simply used the tool on route. I use a speed controllable, 3" grinding wheel and it works fine. The trick of course is that you don't lay on the wheel and watch all the pretty shades of red that are on display! All I do is "brief application, check the results, brief application, check the results..."-type of thing. You could also have a small cup of cold water or maybe an air nozzle blowing on it to keep it cool if you are really paranoid. Like everything in life, it's all about moderation.

Hmmm... for a second I thought this was gonna be post about Disturbed!

I've bought and used my fair share of used climbing gear! If it's been treated nice, then I don't see any problem with that. I normally keep it limited to metal items though... I try to steer clear of used "soft" gear like ropes/slings/harnesses/whatnot.

For those who may not have seen this before and since you mentioned ice screw sharpness... http://www.neice.com/Articles/IceScrewSh...files/frame.htm

No, I'm fixing a drink right now...

I've read info indicating this ice tool or that ice tool is "sharp". How much sharpening are you guys doing to your tools before hitting the ice; what does "sharp" mean? Ice axe, not-so-sharp? Butter knife sharp? Dull pocket knife, sorta-sharp? Cut your finger sharp? Sharp enough to split an atom?

I can "QA" the material if you want to email me a copy!!! Damn... hurry up and get that badboy printed; sounds cool.

I'm still waiting to hear more details (*PROOF*!) of Dru's $800 score!!! Did REI press charges when they finally caught your ass in the parking lot with the loaded pack?????

How in the HELL do you climb that boulder pile on the last pitch of Thielsen in winter?????? Does it all fill in and you get a nice line of snow/ice? Seem like it would just be a bunch of icy boulders to slip and fall on. Almost seems like TFJ would be the warmup for Mt. T.! But... I've only climbed them in the summer, so what the hell do I know.

Sorry. Was just a random thought of mine. Besides, who doesn't like to brag about this sorta shit! Mine is lame... a stupid-ass spectra runner just found on the ground.

Just wondering... what was your best gear booty score?

Fat, yes. Does it prevent me from pulling anything over 5.10? Nope. It's my complete lack of climbing tallent that does that!

I'm about 5'11" and weigh 205. Never had any real concerns about my gear taking my weight in a fall; if anything it was the placement. I climb at 5.wimpy so clearly I need to and to improved my ability. I'd sure like to hear more about this English dude. Hard to imagine it. Anybody got a name on this guy?

Incredibly dumb question time - So AT shit is in fact rando? The term here seems to be used interchangably.... guess I didn't realize that this was the same gear. This might explain why I couldn't find quite as much info on randonee as I could AT! Didn't know it was the same. And... rando/AT have fixed heels? I thought I understood that they had the option of being either fixed or free ala tele.

...they have such long schlongs that one is actually touching the water and the other is hitting bottom.... I've heard this one before, but heard it as "a couple of black guys..."