gyselinck

i have been thinking about this alot, i think one might be able to get down the ice cliff arete pretty easy, a few raps and lots of 2nd and third class, very straight forward. Next time i climb stuart I will go down that way.

I can't do it anymore. Have a good climb, send me some pics when you get back.

Actually I figured out how to use the old library computers. Here you go: Lower headwall: I don't know if you have to cross this one, I cant remember how high it was in the upper cirque, cross your fingers that its low: Looks like it could be sketchy, espcially if that bridge is down:

NOLSe, I have lots of pictures from two or three weeks ago. Theres a few big cracks, but I don't think its going to be a problem. I have no way of posting them. There is a big crack right below the pillar that might make it hard getting on the ramp if memory serves right. I will check out the pics tonight and try and let you know.

specialed, I know nothing. NOLSe, you goin for a summer ascent of madness?

Nice work, I will have to give that one a go before seasons end. claiming FA though if gear was found on the route... Maybe I am just jealous. Looks good guys, nice job.

Fuck no we didnt. Anyone who can free that shit is crazy.

Good to run into you again Juan and Quazimoto.

suckbm and I did this climb the other day and encountered no water and no green slime on route. Conditions are perfect, route is completley dry. Go free it boys!!!

all girls do is eat, sleep, poop, makes messes, and stink

Yakima man falls into lake in Alpine Lakes Wilderness

Thanks for the writeup.

Hey, I don't want to jump to conclusions, but I am not so sure about this. Saturday afternoon my partner and I were descending Assguard Pass when we came across a young man (solo) about my age desceding. We talked to him for several minutes, then passsed him and carried on. I didn't think anything of it. Coming down the trail below Colchuck Lake an older man came walking up the trail (solo) and asked if we had seen a "tall skinney man" by himself. The older man was almost in tears. I immedtialy said "No, we haven't" and just about started to keep on walking. Then my partner said yeah we had. It all the sudden clicked in my mind to. So, I told him the details about how we passed a man coming down Assguard,etc and he got all excited and told us how he was a day over due. We told him that his sone was on the way down and if he kept walking up the trail he would evenutally run into him, this was several hours later. The man who got all excited told asked us if we could tell his mother, who was down waiting in the car. We said yes, and I did this, and she was also almost in tears when I told her we thought we saw her son. Almost made me want to cry. I told her that they should be down in about 3 hours or so because we had saw them way up high. That was it, we pulled out of the parking lot and left. That would be very sad if this was the same thing.

Saw a guy going solo up it yesterday. Talked to him later that day but didn't ask details. If I remember right, there was lots of hard looking glacial ice (hard as in hard ice, not difficult climbing) on the right side and soft looking snow on the left below the face of d-tail.

KarmaRidge, don't use our time as a guide for your trip. I don't know you, but chances are you will do it much faster, we were being pretty chill about it. Lots of cheese breaks, etc. Pack light, travel fast and you will have no problems. I think maybe 9 hours camp - camp would be a normal time, faster if you push it??, not sure though. Edit: Over the week it took us 15 hours (with three people, getting lost numerous times in the Mountie Creek, and being "off route" the entire lower section) to do the complete N. Ridge w/ Gendarme car - summit. We were never really pushing it eaither. I honestly doubt that it will take you anywhere near 12 - 14 hours on the W. ridge. But, dont worry about time, just have fun. No point in busting your ass, just take your time and enjoy being out there.

If Lyger and L0ngpause keeps eating all my food, I'll definatly need a job soon.

Never.

This is a long shot, but we did the N. Ridge three days ago (I think...plus or minus a day) and there was a group coming up the ridge as we were on the Gendarme. It looked like you were taking some pics, we got some rad pics of you guys on the ridge. PM me if you read this and we can swap some photos.

Szyjakowski -

I stoped using chalk about 4 months ago because I ran out and didnt want to buy more. I found that I can climb anything that I can with chalk just as good as I can without. I think people just get in the habit of dipping when there nervous. Chalks over rated.

Good idea. Awsome pictures by the way.

Was any of the route wet, or is it pretty dry up there now? Thanks for the TR.

Sorry about the geography. I am so used to posting in the Alpine Lakes, I didn't even think about it. It was nice to get out and do something in another location. My first time to WA Pass. Thanks for moving it.

I really like your pics.

Climb: Burgundy Spire-Corkscrew Route Date of Climb: 7/14/2005 Trip Report: A trip to climb all the Wine Spires today ended short when NOLSe came down with stomach problems from eating a gas station burrito the night before. We started up the steep ass trail leading to the Wine Spires last night at 12:30. The path basically goes straight up. At one point we climbed to the wrong notch in the dark and had to descend several hundred feet of rotten granite, it was a pain in the ass. Despite getting lost in the dark several times, we made good time to the base of Burgundy Spire. We climbed the Corkscrew Route in the dark and summated at first light. I found the route lots of fun and was way into the climbing, though there was some "looseness." Total time from car to summit of Burgundy was 5 hours and 40 mins. The plan was then to climb Cinati (sp?) and then hit up all the other spires. While descending NOLSe began complaing of stomach aches. I just passed it off as him being an old man and hiking to fast, not getting enough sleep, not eating enough, or maybe not drinking enough. He claimed it was from bad meat in a burrito he ate the night before. After dealing with several cluster f--ks and having the rope get stuck (common problems while descending Burgundy) we reached our packs at the notch. NOLSe was in such pain that he could go no further. He began burping, farting, pooping, and rolling on the ground. I began to wonder if he had a blown appendix? He lay on the dirt for several hours and took a nap while I chassed a mountain goat around. I also went to go climb Silver Star by myself, but learned I climbed the wrong thing upon returning to the nap sight. All in all, it was a fun little climb, but I think I ate more calories then I burned on this trip. It's not often that I come home from a climb with tons of food left over. I highly recomend the route. Gear Notes: Two ropes, medium rack Approach Notes: Frigin' Steep Trail (bring an ice axe if your doing anything besides Burgundy.)