gyselinck

Climb: Roosevelt - Kaleetan-Traverse Date of Climb: 8/16/2005 Trip Report: Have wanted to do this climb for some time. It's mostly scrambling with a few 5th class moves thrown in to make it interesting. I found it to be as difficult as 5.8, but that can be attributed to my route finding skills. If you do it "right" its suppose to be one move of 5.2 or something. We also stayed on the ridge entirely from Roosevelt without dropping down, which most parties seemed to do. Just before reaching the N. Ridge of Kaleetan there is a section of scarry, major loose rock with hardly any pro. I just kept weaving our rope on opposite sides of the knife edged ridge line. The climbing was very easy through this section but I was worried about my hand or feet holds breaking off and taking a gigantic pendulum fall. Descent was easy. There are tons of good tasting berries in the area. Not sure if my partner liked the route, but I thought it was fun. The N. Ridge of Kaleetan: Traversing the ridge: Looking down toward Chair Lake: Gear Notes: 8mm 30 meter rope, half set of chalks, 3 cams Approach Notes: easy to follow climbers path, lots of berries

Lots of bugs on summits is common in early spring and late summer. They just use it as a place to congregate.

"I hate my life, I hate my life..."

Sweet lookin climb. Of course anything can be done, so you could get down the sherpa, but I dont think it would be a wise nor pratical choice of descent, in my opinion.

Thats exactly what I was wondering.

I was just thinking, that chossy Roosevelt - Kaleteen Traverese would be fun to.

Thanks for the link. My interest is those shitty looking rock buttresses.

Has anyone done any climbing ever on Russian Butte near Mount Si over the years?

Anyone want to try a big route on Garfield ( not infinte bliss or endless bliss or whatever its called) this week let me know. I am open any day, weekdays are better. I would also be up for working a line up Mount Si. Anyone know of anything on Russian Butte? If you have any chossy ideas I would be up for them to.

i have been thinking about this alot, i think one might be able to get down the ice cliff arete pretty easy, a few raps and lots of 2nd and third class, very straight forward. Next time i climb stuart I will go down that way.

I can't do it anymore. Have a good climb, send me some pics when you get back.

Actually I figured out how to use the old library computers. Here you go: Lower headwall: I don't know if you have to cross this one, I cant remember how high it was in the upper cirque, cross your fingers that its low: Looks like it could be sketchy, espcially if that bridge is down:

NOLSe, I have lots of pictures from two or three weeks ago. Theres a few big cracks, but I don't think its going to be a problem. I have no way of posting them. There is a big crack right below the pillar that might make it hard getting on the ramp if memory serves right. I will check out the pics tonight and try and let you know.

specialed, I know nothing. NOLSe, you goin for a summer ascent of madness?

Nice work, I will have to give that one a go before seasons end. claiming FA though if gear was found on the route... Maybe I am just jealous. Looks good guys, nice job.

Fuck no we didnt. Anyone who can free that shit is crazy.

Good to run into you again Juan and Quazimoto.

suckbm and I did this climb the other day and encountered no water and no green slime on route. Conditions are perfect, route is completley dry. Go free it boys!!!

all girls do is eat, sleep, poop, makes messes, and stink

Yakima man falls into lake in Alpine Lakes Wilderness

Thanks for the writeup.

Hey, I don't want to jump to conclusions, but I am not so sure about this. Saturday afternoon my partner and I were descending Assguard Pass when we came across a young man (solo) about my age desceding. We talked to him for several minutes, then passsed him and carried on. I didn't think anything of it. Coming down the trail below Colchuck Lake an older man came walking up the trail (solo) and asked if we had seen a "tall skinney man" by himself. The older man was almost in tears. I immedtialy said "No, we haven't" and just about started to keep on walking. Then my partner said yeah we had. It all the sudden clicked in my mind to. So, I told him the details about how we passed a man coming down Assguard,etc and he got all excited and told us how he was a day over due. We told him that his sone was on the way down and if he kept walking up the trail he would evenutally run into him, this was several hours later. The man who got all excited told asked us if we could tell his mother, who was down waiting in the car. We said yes, and I did this, and she was also almost in tears when I told her we thought we saw her son. Almost made me want to cry. I told her that they should be down in about 3 hours or so because we had saw them way up high. That was it, we pulled out of the parking lot and left. That would be very sad if this was the same thing.

Saw a guy going solo up it yesterday. Talked to him later that day but didn't ask details. If I remember right, there was lots of hard looking glacial ice (hard as in hard ice, not difficult climbing) on the right side and soft looking snow on the left below the face of d-tail.

KarmaRidge, don't use our time as a guide for your trip. I don't know you, but chances are you will do it much faster, we were being pretty chill about it. Lots of cheese breaks, etc. Pack light, travel fast and you will have no problems. I think maybe 9 hours camp - camp would be a normal time, faster if you push it??, not sure though. Edit: Over the week it took us 15 hours (with three people, getting lost numerous times in the Mountie Creek, and being "off route" the entire lower section) to do the complete N. Ridge w/ Gendarme car - summit. We were never really pushing it eaither. I honestly doubt that it will take you anywhere near 12 - 14 hours on the W. ridge. But, dont worry about time, just have fun. No point in busting your ass, just take your time and enjoy being out there.

If Lyger and L0ngpause keeps eating all my food, I'll definatly need a job soon.