gyselinck

Up for anything alpine any day. (Its hard for me to find weekday partners) I am always open. Catch is I don't have a car. So, if your driving through Ellensburg and need a partner let me know. Here is what I would like to do before the end up summer: Mount Stuart - Complete N. Ridge, Razorback Ridge, NW Buttress, NE Face Colchuck Balanced Rock - West Face (you have to lead the aid pitch ), a buttress (forgot what direction it is) Dragontail - Backbone Ridge with Fin Colchuck Peak - NE Buttress Sherpa Peak - West Ridge, N. Ridge Temple Ridge - Mount Temple, High Priest, and everything else over there... Would also like to head over to flagpole area and do some of that sometime. Also if you just want to go for a hike, I like bagging peaks as well. PM me!

There is no snow.

si senor

Hey Layton, I climbed that exact route last week, I guess its not an FA afterall. It's never a bad day to be on Stuart eaither.

I think I mistook Cashmere for Cannon Mountain. Your right Slapphappy, but I don't think Dragon's Teeth are near Enchantment Peak. I scrambled up that about a month ago and its directly west of Prusik Peak. I thought you could look across at the teeth from that ugly plateu up there? Maybe I am all messed up though.

If you have any photo's of those "Dragon Teeth" or whatever there called you should post those. (I think thats the right area?) I want to do some exploring around that area soon. Nice going, thanks for the TR.

I've been wanting to do that buttress for sometime. I like that last photo to.

Descent sucked. Are you making fun of us for getting lost in the soup and having to make a few raps? The rope I carried to the top came in handy . Were you the one we talked to near the summit? L0ngpause mistook my hand for a chunk of cheese and took a big bite. Good to meet some other cc people. Freaking Cascadian Couloir, I hate that thing. If I would have known we were so close to the W. Ridge of Sherpa I would have gone for that instead, looks cool.

I don't know?? 17 hours baby . At least we didn't descend the Sherpa on accident. That would suck to end up on the wrong side of the mountain.

Climb: Mount Stuart-Cascadian Couloir Date of Climb: 6/28/2005 Trip Report: It’s been a while since I have been on Mount Stuart and I was itching to get out. Tuesday night L0ngpause and I made plans to do a car-car climb of Stuart’s West Ridge. We carefully planned every detail; picking the perfect gear, studied route topo’s, and tried to get early sleep. Actually not…I don’t think L0ngpause slept a wink and decided to pack, as did I, at 2:30 in the morning. Right before we went out the door I tried to “memorize” the route as described in Beckey. Being in such a sleepy state often leads to forgetting the essentials. For example, I forgot to bring a shirt. After downing some hot drinks we were out the door and hiking up the Ingalls Lake Trailhead by 5:00. Weather was shitty, lots of low cloud cover. We made good time past the lake and soon began looking for the infamous W. Ridge. But, we had some minor difficulties; I couldn’t recognize a damn thing in the clouds. I had never been on the S. Side of Stuart before. We continued to look for the ridge in the soup and eventually found a cairn heading in the right direction, of course this was it; we finally found the W. Ridge. We began hiking up a gulley with low visibility, about 25 feet. The gulley consisted of lots of loose boulders and sand, which was a ton of fun to walk on. The gulley kept going and going and I began to wonder where we were, still I couldn’t see a thing. After what seemed like an eternity of hiking I was surprised to hear what I thought was people. At last we were getting close to the W. Ridge. I rounded a corner and there sat a man and his young daughter. I stood there baffled and asked where we were. “The Cascadian Couloir,” he said with a strange look on his face. Shit! So we continued to the top via the Cascadian. Whoohooo!!! Route is mostly rock, bring an axe (no crampons), very dusty and dirty. Gear Notes: Lots of cheese Approach Notes: Trails went fast, no snow

Climb: Mount Stuart-Ice Cliff Arete Date of Climb: 6/24/2005 Trip Report: It has been my 6th time on the north side of Stuart this year and it never gets old. I love that place! I usually don't do TR's, but I thought I would write this one up because it's a relativly unclimbed route (has it ever seen a second ascent?) and I am way bored. Though I can't see myself doing this route again...I recomend it to others. Beckey calls this route a Grade IV, 5.9 which is pretty much right on. Route finding can be trickey. "Rasta Climber Dude" and I did a climb up the Ice Cliff Arete on Mount Stuart. From the Stuart basin climb to the top of the glacial moraine and follow it (left) to the base of a giant arete. Six full 60m pitches and several half pitches to avoid rope drag lead to the top of the arete. From here we were able to unrope and scramble up the ridge line on easy class 3. As we got near the upper section of the arete we roped back up. As the beckey book shows you traverse left around a tower. From here the climbing got spicy as and turned to mixed snow, rock, and ice. We did a lot of short pitches through the upper tower to avoid rope drag. The climbing was difficult. We began our the climb at first light and topped out around 8:30 at night. One rap got us to class 3 which we were able to down climb and jump on the Sherpa. We desceded the sherpa in the dark and finally found our bivies around midnight. Be careful where you camp. A freaking mouse ate up my socks and chewed up my rock climbing shoes during the night. Next time I go there I am bring a mouse trap, i am tired of that asshole eating my stuff. He ate my food a different time. All in all, this climb offers great views of the N. ridge of Sherpa and Stuart, its also kind of cool to look down at the Ice Cliff the whole time and watch things come crashing down. Hey NOLSe, if you have any pics of the arete and have the time, you should post a few. Gear Notes: I think Rasta Climber Dude would have wanted : Gloves, gaitors (all which he forgot) I would have liked: an insulated jacket (which i forgot) We both could have used a picket or two and maybe a screw, more water Approach Notes: Easy

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/465701/an/0/page/1#465701

We did Northern Dihedral a month or two ago. It was pretty sweet. I recomend the route, but beware, you might get some dirt in your eye. Oh, and it might not be a good idea (or it might be a good idea) depending on how you look at it to climb it on a weekend. All the shit that comes off drops right onto the first pitch of OS and it would really suck to kill somebody that way. It would be an even sweeter route if it was climbed a little more and cleaned. Bring a garden trowl.

Shits falling down pretty regularly, everyonce in a while something huge will go. Ramp on climbers left goes pretty quick. We belayed the last section leading to the top wich consisted of two or three easy/moderate steps. Brought 4 screws but used 3. On top there are a few big, deep crevases. We were able to walk over snowbridges, but chances are they wont be there much longer. It has been really warm and its going "out of condition" more and more every day.

Thanks for leaving me the frosting though.

Climb: Mount Stuart-Girth Pillar Date of Climb: 6/21/2005 Trip Report: NOLSe drove out to from Portland Monday afternoon to pick me up in E-burg. I rode my bike out to our old meeting spot because I didn't want to explain directions back to the house. In a little under a half hour we returned to the house to pick up my gear. There we found L0ngpause and Lyger completely wasted and acting goofy as they drank almost my entire bottle of jin upon my leaving in that short time. The approach up the Mountaineers Creek went very smooth. Trail is completely snow free and the brush isn't bad, yet. I think it took us 2 hours and 40 min., I forget. Monday night we hiked up to the base of the Ice Cliff and stashed a bunch of gear. We then returned to our bivy site and prepared for early sleep. The plan was to wake at midnight, climb the Ice Cliff in the dark and reach the pillar by early morning. About 5 min after crawling into my sleeping bag I heard people noises and popped my head out to see what was up. “Craig, is that you?” Turns out suckbm and uwclimber were there to climb a route. Throughout the night a family of seven goats attacked our camp. I continuously threw rocks at there heads to try to keep them away. I got zero hours of sleep, damn goats. Mosquitoes were also bad. We woke at midnight and climbed the Ice Cliff in the dark. We followed the ramp (climbers left) which went very smooth. We soloed the whole thing expect the last section getting on top. One 70 meter lead did the trick. There were a few crevasses showing on top, but they posed no problems. Things went way faster then expected and we soon found ourselves at the base of the rock section in the dark. We climbed the first two rock pitches getting to the pillar in the dark and were at the base by first light. After some exploratory climbing, we climbed the standard route up the pillar. We found lots of booty including sewn slings, carabiners, nuts, a hex, a number 4 camalot, and a pair of crampons hanging on the wall (we left these). NOLSe lead the aid pitches, we were able to run the first pitch out nearly 300 feet! All in all it took us 17 hours to climb the pillar from the base of the moraine, 2 of the hours were wasted exploring new territory. Upon arriving at the false summit of Stuart we were greeted to bad weather moving in. I thought I heard distant thunder. Descent was easy and straight forward. We were able to easily plunge step down the Sherpa. We then hiked out that night and got back to our car right at dark. I was complety wasted from being awake for more the 24 hours. The pillar is in such a cool setting. The climbing is difficult and always fun. This is my all time favorite route that I have done. I don’t own a camera, thus no pics. But NOLSe might post some. Gear Notes: Ice Cliff - two ice tools, 4 screws Rock Section - Fairly large rack, lots of water Approach Notes: Approached via Mountaineers Creek, trail snow free to upper Stuart basin

If all thats on your mind Layton, i dont ever want to drink with you

GOing in that way sucks if you havent done it before. Wait a minute, it sucks if you have done it before.

I wouldn't be able to handel all the girls. (If I had any car I would be happy )

Anyone live in Redmond who likes mountains? (and has a car? )

How are they supposed to be ready for the adventure without going out and getting the experience? Maybe the scientific breakdown is a good way for them to discover if there ready. Not everyone is born a hardman climber. When I was learning to climb I got the all the beta I could, a scientific breakdown as you say. I remember once I really wanted to climb the Improbable Traverse on Guye Peak, but I was so scared at the thought. I researched it online, read multiple books, talked to people who had done it, climbed the descent route, took recon photos, and once watched some climbers for an hour or more on route from the parking lot. (Whoa, I did all that for Mt. Thomson too. )Even then the thought of going up there scared me, made me feel sick. We finally did climb it and it went way smooth, of course I knew every route detail, however. But that’s not the point, the point is, is that it helped me learn the processes of alpine climbing. Now I hardly ever climb with a guide and have little to no prior knowledge of climbs that I do. It’s all part of the learning. I also think that climbing can be pretty emotional, which is why we tend to get so worked up. Kind of funny considering climbing means nothing, its pointless. It’s a waste of resources, time, energy, and maybe even your life. Everyone climbs for different reasons. If someone wants good beta, that’s there call. Why should someone else care? If you don’t want it, don’t read it. I think its pretty cool that catbird spent the time for the write up, rather then just brushing someone off. Cascade Climbers is a place to share information, its good that someone got what they neeeded. Hopefully it will help make there trip go smooth, be a little more enjoyable.

Snow will be no problem on route, but bring an ice axe for approach. I would recomend not camping at Ridge Lake, but continuing over Bumblebee pass and camping in the basin below Thomson. It is much more pretty, there is a stream for water, you won't see any people, and it makes a shorter approach the following day. (You could also do it car-car easily, but camping will allow you to enjoy the area more.) Go climb Toppling Tower to.

It's friggen' scarry shit. It is the hardest "4th class" move I have ever done.

Were those pics taken yesterday (June 2), or on May 2.

I was just kidding around, quoting the beckey description, which I think all of you should read, kind of humerous. But, I wasn't kidding about it being the biggest choss pile I have ever climbed. Quotes from Beckey: "First ascent made in May 1915, an early date for local rock climbing, by Charles Hazlehurst and Thomas Acheson. They doubted they might survive the descent and one of them wrote his will on shirt cuffs. The peak was not climbed again for 9 years." "a difficult overhanging rock cornice near the top should be attempted only by those with steady nerves and sure feet shod with plenty of number seven calks." I would be interested in trying your way.