gyselinck
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Everything posted by gyselinck
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	Maybe Lyger and Longpause will fight and post a TR with pictures. Post some more TR's people..
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	Post some stinkin' pictures! We were the two you talked to, I was the water boy, had only drunk a liter all day cause I had forgotton my other bottel and was thristy. Nice going guys.
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	Whoo-hoo. Party at my house!!
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	I am guilty and don't often do it, but somebody should post a TR of what they did over the weekend. I am bored and need to see somthing cool. Make sure to include pictures. I like to read about and see pictures of what others do, it keeps me excited through the boring week.
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	Exit 38 is a great place for bolted climbs. Everything is relatively consolidated into a small area, a nice outdoor gym. In regards to gritscone, the routes aren't very high, it's a bouldering area. That could be why the bolts were pulled. Also, sometimes people want to feel badass, so they're assholes to everyone else, an ego thing. Marking hangers is a good idea, but in situations like this I doubt the hangers are stolen for other climbs. Chances are they are not putting up new climbs, just satisfying their ego. Most likely they end up in the dump. Don't let a few ruin it for the rest of us. Put em' back up. PS. That guy in that picture needs to pull up his pants.
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	More people need to do this one? It is the shittiest route I have ever done in my life. There were like 3 pitches of hard climbing covered in wet moss and dirt. Had to pull moss and dirt out of the cracks to find pro. Also, lots of loose rock. If you climbed it on a weekend with lots of people below you, chances are you would get your ass kicked when you got to the top. Fixed gear? I did clip a fixed bong and angle on the route, besides that, nothing. I think it is a dangerous route. It was fun though.
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	Speaking of the complete Temple Ridge traverse, has anyone on this site done it (got any pics?)? Went and did Prusik last weekend, it was my first time into the area, those peaks are amazing. Got a good view of the ridge line and it looks pretty cool, its something I would like to do.
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	100 bucks!!! You could buy two cams with that. There is a key hanging on the peg board at Vantage, its been there for quite a while, maybe it will fit your honda? Alright, I'll stop messing with your forum. Have fun on your trip Mr, dont die, and let me know when youg get back. Someone help this man find his key.
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	Maybe you shouldnt run so much.
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	Two days ago I left a large nut in the upper pitches of the Northern Dihedral on Snow Creek Wall. If you want to dig it out of the mud, you can have that one as well.
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	Here is an article, the old timer (terry) you speak of is pictured in the article. It is an older article, but it might explain some of the issues. A good read. http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/pacificnw/2002/0623/cover.html
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	My climbing partner is going to die next time I see him. He always claimed that he knew all these routes, so we would walk up to a crack and he would be like, "Craig, do this one, its only a 5.9." So I would struggle and wine my way to the top and think about the major stiff rattings this place has. Well, I am now looking through the guide and all these "5.9" climbs are rated 5.10c and such. Now I don't feel like such an idiot. Come to think of it, he does this stuff a lot. The other week in Vantage he told me to climb and easy 10a crack. After the fourth time of me falling on the crux, he laughs and tells me its an 11. Some good friends I got. At first I wasent to sure of this Tieton place, but I am starting to like it the more I go there. I am going to start going there a lot I think. Cool place.
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	I have always gone to Tieton and just climbed random stuff. Never really new what the routes were or the rattings. I just bought the guide book and its sweet. Got it for 20 dollars at Jerrols Books in Ellensburg, rather then at REI where they sell it for 26 dollars.
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	Tangled Up In Blue was first climbed in 1988 and has since become a classic. It’s an easy 5.8 twin crack which takes good jams, or it can be stemed, or both. It’s a popular beginner’s crack, which helps inspire confidence for harder climbs on Sunshine Wall. Unlike most routes, it maintains its grade throughout the whole climb, which is why many people believe it to be harder then it really is. It takes good gear and there is an awesome belay at top. Whenever I take people who are new to Frenchman Coulee, I always take them up TUIB, it’s an awesome route. See the following link for a picture of the climb. It’s a pretty sweet shot of the first ascentist soloing the route in tennis shoes. (note: that is not him making the FA, it was taken years later.) http://www.nawwal.org/~mrgoff/photojournal/2000/fallwin/10-21brtangled1.html I am also asking that the bolts be removed by whoever put them up. If you do it, the bolts can find a more useful place, perhaps Middle East Wall. If I do it, they will end up in the trash. Please respect the area. If you want to change the characteristics of a climb, perhaps it might be a good idea to post on here to get others insight. What better way is there to trade information? Each climb should be dealt with on a case by case basis. Sunshine Wall, King Pins must be left alone. Edit: I might add, the route has gone 17 years without bolt anchors, why add them now? Thats probably longer then most people on this board have been climbing. Clearly they are not needed.
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	Whoever installed chains above Steel Grill, right on, it was needed. Whoever installed chain anchors above George and Martha, thank you, it was also due for a fix. Whoever installed two bolts above Tangled Up In Blue is a f—king piece of shit who should go back to Seattle (where they belong) and climb on plastic. If you’re two lazy to climb the extra 10 feet to the top for a cool belay in a natural rock chair, or to lazy to walk 25 steps to the right to the areas rappel station, you shouldn’t be climbing at Vantage. Tangled Up in Blue is classic line which should be left alone, topping out is part of the Frenchman Coulee experience. Don’t try to be a hero by fixing climbs to make them more “aesthetic.” They should be left as is by the FA team, especially classic climbs like this one, especially crack climbs. I wonder what Bill would do if he new bolts were added to one of his climbs? In many cases, such as this one, there is no difference in spray painting the climb in red or adding two monstrous fat ugly bolts, its called vandalism . Those bolts should be pulled, they dont belong there.
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[TR] Colchuck Peak- North Buttress Couloir 4/9/2005
gyselinck replied to mughjie's topic in Alpine Lakes
We bivied on the far side of the lake and I heard rock falling off that mountain all night. - 
	Does anyone know the story of what happened when he was descending from Asgard Pass. How was he killed? I looked around but couldn't find anything.
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	Cook wanting to go is neither.
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[TR] Mount Rainier- Gibraltar Ledges 3/24/2005
gyselinck replied to Kraken's topic in Mount Rainier NP
I am still jealous, how did you guys get the weather? We didn't have that good of weather here in Ellensburg. Holy crap! - 
	
[TR] Mount Rainier- Gibraltar Ledges 3/24/2005
gyselinck replied to Kraken's topic in Mount Rainier NP
You lucky bastards. Hey Clintoris, I was going to be the “third” member of your team, but I told Andy I was going to bail at the last second because I thought you guys didn’t stand a chance in hell with the weather. Instead I went to L-worth and tried to remember how to climb rock. Well, Andy you can rub it in my face…I guess. Sorry about droping out. Good job, way to go! I am jealous. Hey Andy, if you get this, let me know about Stuart. I got a way cool idea! - 
	I tried pumpline the other day, I got to the half way point where I bailed. My other two partners "aided" to the top. If pumpline were at Vantage it would be like a 5.12+. Sex Party (5.10), but actually 5.9 Air Guitarist (5.10), actually 5.9- Tangle up in Blue (5.9), actually 5.8
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	I have lead almost every traditional route on Sunshine Wall, with the exception of Red M&M, and a few others. Back when I carred about hard shit (like 2 months ago), my goal was to lead Red M&M. It is not hard to place pro in. It just takes small shit which freaks most people out. For some reason people would rather fall on a black diamond number 5 camalot, then a number 1 wired nut. Seriously though, back when I was interested in doing it, I saw this old guy lead it and he put pro in about every three feet. The crack is there! And Red was just one example, I can lead most every 11 there without to much problem...(Stems and Seeds, Shrinking Ball Disease, Bob's Your Uncle, etc) which means they are not 11's. I cant lead 11's anywhere else...
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	How come I can climb Red M&M (supposed 5.12a, according to the guide book) and lead most traditional 5.11 climbs at Vantage, but I cant climb like 10d and up in L-worth...top roped...Hmmmm... Whatever the guide book says, bump the grade down at least 2 letters. For example, 5.11 climbs are really 10b climbs.
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Lost: Petzl Quark Ergo North Side Mt Stuart
gyselinck replied to John Frieh's topic in Lost and Found
NOLse, Post some of those other pics, like the one you titled "Start of pitch two." and "bailer," I have looked at those about a thousand times today. Maybe it will entice some wanker to go up there and find your tool. Sweet stuff! Weather is suppose to be bad all weekend, new snow won't help anything. Just for the record, where do you think it would have gone then? Up close gainst the right wall, or out into the middle of the upper snow field? Eaither way, I wouldn't worry about it to much, I would give up an ice tool any day to climb that shit. Hell, I would most probably give up two tools. (And for my record, I'm broke.) - 
	I heard there is a crazy guy with a shot gun who doesn't like people cutting through his land.
 
