gyselinck

Found last Thursday along with lots of booty on Snow Creek Wall. I am going to make a habbit of climbing the "classics" every Monday so I can build a nice rack and replace old gear. I tried to get cook to put his hand in the picture for size comparison, but he declined.

I think we did a new "variation" last winter, though it wasen't on purpose, got a little "off route". What a freaking choss pile, hard to navigate on. My friend said it was the cloosest he has come to death in a long time. Frigin' loose rock everywhere. Like Beckey says, do not attempt unless you have sure feet and steady nerves. A bunch of number seven calks might have made it easier. We almost wrote our wills on shirt cuffs. Hey Klenke, why isnt your name up there?

damn, im not doing to good. If anyone found a pair of sandals in the snow creek parking lot, those are mine to.

Right on.

Yo Clintoris, whatever happened to that balls to the wall climb you did up one of the hardest mountains in the Chugard or however you spell it.

Might have been us that you heard. Saw your foot prints, to bad we didn't run into you.

Set em down where the first small creek crosses the trail just before the trail flattens out and goes below the Snow Creek Wall. They are old and beat up, but I would still like to get em back. We ended up going a different way back down so I don't know if they are still there or not. Thanks.

Today we went up to snow creek wall and rap bolted the two upper pitches of outer space to make sure its safer for future generations. On approach we saw the biggest rattlesnake I have ever seen. The thing was frikein huge. We were walking really fast so it scared me as much as I scared it, it was pissed. Maybe Cook will post a pic? I also heard a big slide came down across the trail, talked to a couple of people who turned around because of it, though they didn't exactly look like the climbing type.

It is suppose to be pretty warm (and is) through the week so should be prime (s. facing) by next weekend if thats what your thinking. Crack might be a little wet I would guess, but go for it and post a TR. PS. I forgot to ask my friend, but I think you can drive to the end of the road now too.

Post deleted by gyselinck

Don't bivy, you don't want to have to carry all that shit. But if you must...You can bivy on the moraine just below the route. To get there, go up the standard way up to the Stuart Basin. Follow the climbers path until you look over and see Argonaut directly across from you then cut over. Scramble up a boulder fielf, then some snow covering rock slabs, then jump on the glacial moraine. Beware, don't cut over to early from the stuart climbers path or you will find yourself in a thicket of slide alder, which isn't bad..if your into that kind of stuff. (I would recomend going light, doing it in a day, carrying over to Colchuck and descending that way) edit: I would also recomend post a TR

Friend went there last weekend. Didn't use snowshoes, but said the crack on the S. Face is completly filled with ice, if thats what your doing.

I didn't mean 5.11 A0, I said 5.11 (A0). I don't hike 5.11 in cold wet snowy blizzards. I pulled on gear up the 11 section. Consisted of a crack going over an overhanging roof onto face climbing. Cook and L0ngpause prusiked up it. I don't have any pics of it, but just thought I would clarify. Layton, unless you like waiting in lines, don't go there, way to crowded.

Yee-haw!! I forgot to mention, I was kidding about my recomendation of going up rat creek.

Climb: The Mole-West Face Date of Climb: 5/22/2005 Trip Report: Cook, Longpause, and I worked a route up the W. Face of the mole on Saturday, May 22. I had no route information, thus followed lines of weakness. I can’t compare our route to any descriptions in Beckey book. At first I thought we did the 1948 route, but looking back it doesn’t match either. If anyone has any good topos of the W. Face I would love to see them. Climbing was stiff and complicated, estimated crux pitch was 5.11 (A0). I think we did 8 or so pitches. The route contained nice cracks and run out slabs. Weather came in complicating matters. It snowed almost all day, strong winds, low visibility, very cold. After getting off The Mole we got lost in thick clouds and descended the wrong gully and headed over a mile in the wrong direction. We had stashed our bags and all our extra gear at Mesa Lake, but ended up way down Rat Creek. We finally found our way back in the dark, during a snowstorm and found our packs around 4:00 in the morning. Ended up being a 20 hour day, we were wet and cold. The Mole showing W. Face Somewhere on the W. Face. L0ngpause descending, nice and dry. Gear Notes: 60m rope, small rock rack made shorter pitches but there would be rope drag anyway, ice axe Approach Notes: Toketie Creek, though I recomend going up Rat Creek, watch for ticks

There is hella snow, yes you would. They got a little bit of fresh too.

Fixed Klenke's goof. Klenke, Colchuck/Argonaut Pass... We had to go all the way back to the moraine to get some stuff we stashed there, plus back to our campsite in the upper basin below Stuart.

Climb: Argonaut Peak -Northeast Couloir Date of Climb: 5/14/2005 Trip Report: A plan to climb the Northeast Face of Stuart, changed into a plan to climb the Ice Cliff Glacier Arête, where we ended up climbing the Northeast Couloir of Argonaut Peak, then traversing over to Colchuck and Dragontail. It has been my 4th weekend in a row into the area, I didn't care what we did, just wanted to climb something. NOLSe and I set up bivies under blue skies in a rock shelter below the moraine of the Ice Cliff Glacier and watched clouds roll in. I had checked the weather that day which showed a 60% chance of rain on Saturday, not what I wanted to here. I then went to a less reliable source which showed a 30% chance of precipitation, more to my liking. We ran into a couple of friends on the hike up who were there to climb the SGC, we all shared the cave. Shit kept falling off the NE Face so we contemplated climbing the Ice Cliff Glacier Arête instead. We awoke around 6 the following morning to rain. Our friends that shared the cave were completely saturated; NOLSe and I lucked out and stayed dry. Weather was poopy, so we decided we would go climb Argonaut Saturday morning. Neither of us had done it before, but both had been eyeing it for some time. Due to the lack of snowfall this year the climbing was a little more interesting then I had thought it would be. There were a couple thin ice steps, but nothing to difficult. We both soloed the entire route, except for one section of rotten ice about 10 feet high. NOLSe soloed it and told me that he would drop the rope. I found this section easier then the first crux lower down the climb. Easy 4th and low 5th class climbing lead out of the couloir and onto the upper face. A quick traverse and class 3 scramble lead to the summit. Time was 5 hours from the glacial moraine below Stuart to summit of Argonaut. I had forgotten my rations back at camp so NOLSe was nice enough to share his. He gave me two bars and one gu packet and kept the same for himself. On the summit we snapped some photos, signed the register (and fixed the date on Klenke and MCash’s note) admired the bad weather, and contemplated what to do next. One rap down the east face (60 m rope) brought us to class 3 ledges where we were able to jump into the east couloir and plunge step down. We left all our gear at the Argonaut/Colchuck pass and ran up the summit of Colchuck. From there NOLSe distributed our remaining rations (3 cough drops each) and we ran to the false summit of Dragontail. A short rock step prevented us from reaching the true summit. We quickly descend and returned to our packs. Easy going brought us back to the moraine below Argonaut where we met a couple of NOLSe’s friends who were going to climb the route the following day. We dried out our feet and returned to camp below Stuart. The plan was to try to climb a route up Stuart on Sunday if the weather got better. Sunday morning we awoke to heavy rain, packed up, and headed home. Good climb, great route, had lots of phun. (NOLSe, you wanna post some pics?) Gear Notes: Brought rock rack, crampons, picket but didnt use any of it. Both had two tools. 60 m rope for a rap. Approach Notes: easy slog

Dont be so negative.

Keep an eye on the weather. As of now it looks like things could come back in. Point forcast for 7,800 feet over the Stuart Range: http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/total_forecast/i...;lon=-120.84375 Highs in the 30's, Lows in the lower 20's. All that water could form some fatty ice.

I was just curious, how old are all you guys? I could make a guess juding by the pictures, but I wouldn't want to hurt anyone's feelings. Every climber I have ever run into in the mountains is about your guy's age looking.

The holes are there if you look hard close.

It's not worth the $66 ticket. Get a pass, its good for Tieton too. (If you buy two you get the second one half price, so find a friend that needs one and buy them together. If you buy a fishing license you get one free with that. )

First you ditch out on me, then you mess up my thread. Don't you guys ever mess with my thread again and get it moved. Lyger, Longpause . Crazy bastards .

SCW has been bone dry almost all winter.