went yesterday, 7/19.
Ice was okay but not amazing; some dinner plates broke off and our crampons felt more secure than our tools.
No boot track above second pitch. We traversed the upper kautz glacier back and forth several times trying to negotiate crevasses. (We ascended up the face to Point Success rather than cross over the Nisqually.) The crevasses are basically impassable - not safely passable. We were up there moderately late (say 10 a.m.) there was water running under the heavily sun cupped and penitented face. I punched a foot through in one spot. Ice tinkled into the creek in the glacier below. it was sketchy - we may have gone the wrong way, though. I've done a little research and it looks like the preferred route is to cross onto the Nisqually at the top of the Wapowty Cleaver. We did pop our heads over there, but that looks way too broken up to be a safe option either.
Anybody hear about the group of five who did the route yesterday? They were about 1200' below us. I didn't see them come down DC, either.
Two climbing rangers were climbing the route yesterday so they will probably have some impressions to share.
Napped at 13.9K', Ben :-)