astrov

What size is it?

Nice to see you and Jeff! After we talked to you in the parking lot, Dennis H and I ascended cruisin' start to the SE corner. As leader I came across the belayer for party number 2 at the base of the slab pitch. He was stuck there for 2 hours before he got to move. I saw the party ahead of him, whom his leader was stuck behind, go way left on the SE corner instead of stepping right and around right at the end of the third pitch. I think he had to back off becuase it got too steep. Dennis H and I simply rapped down and called it a day rather than try to play through! I love reading your updates Ivan. Sometimes you make my palms sweat....your 7 freesolo laps in a day...Hesus de Christos man. Anyway, Jeff and I did the old injured man tour lap Saturday up the corner (his knee my shoulder). We pulled in and there was not a single car on the climbers side of the parking lot. We were almost whooping and hollering like when we were kids. Reminiscent of climbing there 30-40 years back and you'd never see anyone all say. Turned out there were 2 parties already which we came up quick on, but they were both kind enough to let us pass so we were car to car in 2 hours and change and they should have seen the approx route so as to not get to far off route. Good times with a good dude.

This seems pretty sketchy; did anyone have their gear stolen? I know some MHCC kids had their car broken into recently: http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/spo/3273068216.html "I have a bunch of rock climbing gear. Im asking 500 obo. this is roughly 2200 in equipment. i have a set of 6 dragons, 11 Camelots, lightening pro rope, 1 petzel climbing harness size extra small, 1tomahawk ice breaker, 6 sets of quick draws, 2 set of screamers 20 or so various carabiners, 4 of them are locking i have uplaoded some pics. if you are interested in this beyond killer deal shoot me an email and we will go from there."

Ben B. is selling his Vipers

Y'all ever run your nylon slings through the (clothes) washer and dryer? I figured it might be good to get the years of accumulated dirt out to keep them from wearing as quickly. But maybe I should just get new slings.

Bivy sacks blow around in the wind less than tents.

climbed Cruisin' this morning with Dennis H. Fun climb! Placed a red micro stopper in before the crux - couldn't get it out. We didn't bail off it, but it's apparently in there pretty well. Let me know if you can get it out.

A guy I know from work is looking for a roomie, but he's not a climber. He'd be fun to live with, though and he's your age. I am an aspiring climber and definitely not cool. As a fulltime office drone, though, I have a car, gear, and gas, and general desire to climb.

I think the fear is that the tree itself will give way - and we should preserve it for belaying and not rap off of it, given that there are bolted anchors so close at hand. Again, we rapped off it not knowing there was a bolted anchor right around the corner. (Other problem, I suppose, is that it supposedly takes a 70 m rope to get to the ground [without downclimbing] off the bolted anchor at the top of Pitch 1 of Young Warriors. So maybe you can address that Joseph ... double rope rappells?) Do you think the occasional rap off the tree is going to taint the route more than the eroded holds, crusty chalk stains, and 6-odd rusted ass pins scarred into the rock?

Or her. it could be a her.

Thanks OMB; I sent him a text.

Somebody must have an old hangboard they're not using.

the radio fell of the end of the second "pitch" (really a run out, 4th class traverse) on SE Corner. At the base of the slab pitch. So there was no rapping off the poor old tree. (Although I did that on a separate occasion last week in the dark and shan't again, now that I know where the YW anchors are.) Dennis H spotted my radio yesterday near the base of cruisin'. it was in one piece, amazingly. We also rapped off the anchor at the top of P2 of YW, so now I know where that is. Thanks for the beta.

I should probably add that I am not a golfer. Additionally, I'm down for sport, TR ... whatever. My saturday night opened up so I'd be up for a run out to Smith.

normal climbing partners are otherwise occupied or incommunicado. I've been climbing easy trad recently and would like to go to Beacon, Broughton, or Ozone / Farside for more of same. have rope, gear, car, etc. Don't make me go golfing.

did 3 pitches of SE Corner; rapped off in the dark. Last car in the lot. Anyone want to climb Sunday? 9/6 - two solo corner laps, one w/ arndt (that is how that old boy spells his name, right?) while he was waiting for the "red ant" to arrive - horrified to find my good name impugned by certain unnamed low-lifes up on the little people ledge - seems they think i've been drinking their cached beer - despite my innocence, i nonetheless searched desperately to find said stranded beer so i could "protect" it better, but no dice steve, yet again, climbing w/ random cuties, this one crushing on warriors and jills - gotta love an understanding wife! Semms like we must be ships passing in the daylight. I must have bugged out after my second lap just before you showed up. Ha, good thing I decided to clear the last of my own stashed beer. I think I know where the other guys is...

#3; PM sent.

Lost at base of Cruisin' on Thursday, August 30 - Purple VTech "V-Talk" 2-way radio. I actually dropped it from the belay station at the end of pitch 2 of SE Corner and it fell into the void. I'm curious if it survived the fall. I might have to rap the route from that station to see if I can find it. I posted this in the Beacon thread too, and if that's not acceptable, I apologize.

Well I guess I'm of some utility if it's being violated in the District of Oregon. What happens when a case spans multiple states? Do you seriously need to get licensed in each? We'd either defend an enforcement action, which would be filed in federal court and heard by a magistrate judge, or bring a declaratory relief action in state or federal court concerning liability for fees on the NW Forest Pass, although if we filed in state (and why would we do that?) the feds would probably remove it to federal court. I could be admitted to neighboring federal court districts without being admitted in those states. the 9th Circuit's appellate ruling should be controlling law in all districts in the 9th circuit, which I believe includes WA, OR, CA, and ID, among others.

Lost at base of Cruisin' on Thursday, August 30 - Purple VTech "V-Talk" 2-way radio. I actually dropped it from the belay station at the end of pitch 2 of SE Corner and it fell into the void. I'm curious if it survived the fall. I might have to rap the route from that station to see if I can find it.

Funny. I probably placed those pieces on the 18th but didn't recognize them 2 days ago. I have a matching wallnut and an unmarked anodized stopper.

Well I guess I'm of some utility if it's being violated in the District of Oregon.

is this still happening in the PNW? I'm looking for a winter project once the good weather goes away ... maybe suing the forest service is it.

no mention of my radio.