powderhound

Looks fun gentleman

Teh phuzzy and denalidave any good word?

There has to be ice out there somehwere, the fountain in the peral had enough ice for some sticks this morning Crown? Mist? ect....

PM Sent

@Alex: i think it is cold enough it it a high of 10 at the lake, and correct me if I am wrong but I think the climbs are actually spring fed....

Anyone been out there yet? Thinking it could be good to go this weekend.

Can someone is the gorge fill the five gallon bucket with water and let me know when it is good an frozen? Looks like we might be able to get some ice here in the next week. I will be having a shin dig at my house to sacrifice a few goats and calfs in hope of appeasing the ice gods. Donations welcome

Another classic day my friend. Thankmerica

I posted before I added the location information, can an admin add: "Mt Hood. Illumination Rock North Face" that way it can show up in a search. Thanks, Bryan Schmitz

Trip: Mt. Hood-Illumination Rock NF - Date: 11/25/2013 Trip Report: November the 24th my alarm went off at 4:00am, I awoke alert and ready. The days supplies already stashed and packed into my car. Coffee brewed and car warm I ventured across the river to meet Tim. I came to a halt outside his house with him already outside and next to his car. We loaded up into his car and sprang over to pick up Colin. The next hour and a half went by in a breeze as we shot the shit about this and that. Soon we found ourselves in the timberline parking lot gearing up. Illumination Rock, our objective easily seen from the car looks relatively close. This would be my third attempt at climbing on I-Rock and the conditions were prime for success. Firm conditions, little wind, and amazing views make for a palatable approach. A brisk bit later we found ourselves dropping our bags and putting our harnesses on at the Illumination Rock saddle. Here at the saddle I got my first view of the north face. Like the dark side of the moon the north face looks nothing like what most see from the magic mile. The face is steep, with large rime ice formations, accessed by a traverse above the reid glacier on 50 to 60 degree snow. When I first looked up from the belay the lines look improbable, the overhangs and rime features daunting. At what we thought was the base of the climb we began digging for a bolt that we knew should be to the climbers left of the start. After fifteen minutes of chopping we realized that #1 the was some actual decent rock here, #2 there was some decent ice bonding it together, and #3 screw the bolt, build an anchor. Bring a screw and place it!!! Soon Tim was off, scraping and clawing his way up. We could tell he was really having fun when let out a whooping call of joy at the top of the steep left facing corner. He made strong continual progress upwards, after a while he disappeared out of view. Soon he was off belay and Colin and I were on our way up. The climbing was amazing, hooks, and snice, perfect swings into iced cracks, chockstones in cracks to hook, hand jams, edges on the arete for crampon points. The pitch about 30M, finished sweet tunnel like snice climbing behind a flake of rime ice. Shortly after getting to the belay, Colin comes up behind and exclaims that we are in fact not on the line that he had climbed previously and that Tim had climbed a different first pitch variation. Tim took off again for the 2nd pitch as Colin and I declined to lead. Tim put on a super proud effort, Colin and I remarked that we would both have backed off for sure. He vigorously spent a half hour on the last bit up to and through the skylight. Ice pelted down on us at the belay constantly as he Tim dug for ice and rock beneath the inconsistent rime ice. This pitch featured sustained climbing using liebacks, mandatory hand jams, perfect pick locks, and scratchy ice hooking on half inch ice. We all were sporting mono points and thought that dual points would make the feet far more secure on this pitch. I can see the pitch being much more straight forward with more ice, but in the conditions we found it I thought it to be a bit sporty. Again super proud of the lead that Tim put together to get the rope through the skylight. We slung the huge rock horn and made a double rope rap back down the northern skylight. Colin found the bolts at the top of his route at about 50M. Another rap brought us to the base, a quick shuffle back to the saddle and soon we were sharing cold pizza, high fiving, and talking about hot showers and beer to be drank. Thanks Colin and Tim for an exceeds expectations first day of the season. Hope to rope in with you both soon again! Photo Stoke: Courtesy of ColinB Classic mixed climbing right off the snow slope Tim nearing the top of the clean corner on the first pitch Tim getting it done! Tim making it rain at the top of P1, at the top of P2 this went on for a half hour Me in the corner on pitch 1 Me making my way up pitch 1 after the corner. Tim starting pitch 2 Colin bout to climb through the skylight Happy Climber #1 Happy Climber #2 Happy Climber #3 Topo: From L to R: the line we did the line colin, dan, and nate did the original northern skylight far right: southern skylight Gear Notes: Couple kbs or beaks, baby angles, 10 & 13cm screw, and we decided that a double rack wouldn't be a bad thing. #3 to .5 single set of nuts. Approach Notes: East form PDX, park, walk, walk, smile

Great firm conditions yesterday. Lots of people summiting. We found good mixed conditions on the nf of illumination.

Looks pretty high volume but the side climbs look like they would go: http://www.panoramio.com/photo/58772189

Also let me know if you need a loaner whilst you find new wheels. My parents are gone so I can lend you my wheels and use their,s. Plus with the new job I usually take the bus.

Put me on the list to say a few kind words before you send her to her subterranean sleep. RIP

Warm enough john didn't need his gloves?

this is fawking bullshit. If I miss out on going to Yosemite cause of these bitches I am going to get so damn angry I shit my own pants

Fuck Man. This better be over before I get there on Sunday.

So I am headed to the valley, I have a partner but not a way to get there. I am not to keen on driving but would join your car if you are headed down there or if you are headed there from the aby area then I can just fly in and we can go from the bay. Thanks for looking Bryan Schmitz

i can bring some across the boarder...

can we start a new forum for kevbone so his constant and depressing bitching about other people climbing won't interfere with our stoke? That way we can continue to talk about climbing rather than not climbing.....even better yet, can we rename the site cascade bitchers that way we are just clear what actually goes on here.

Baller guys, just getting the needful done. PROUD. Bryan Schmitz

doing this this sunday, leaving pdx around 9am, anyone else interested? Not looking for any beginners, I am not a guide...

Ledge found.

Hi All, Looking to borrow a ledge, preferably a single for the weekend. Anyone have one tat I could borrow? I will keep it in tip top shape and throw some beers or wine your way. Thanks for looking. Bryan Schmitz

quite the chick magnet you have been this summer, first tieton, then darrington, now beacon.