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jmace

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Everything posted by jmace

  1. I would go further and say July 15-Aug 15 after Aug 15 things often go weird...shorter days too...then most often it will piss rain all labour day weekend long and then we get a wicked 3/4 of September. I always plan my mountain vacations to occur near the end of July good luck
  2. The mountains will always be there, but spring break with college girls...well thats for a limited time only. Go South Go big and share some pics when you get back!!!
  3. WEAK!!! Might as well take a helicopter everywhere too...there is something to say about going on a big adventure where its you and only you. Thats a hell of a lot different than just being able to press a button and get rescued. Wills getting old
  4. The reality of that situation is that its better to find a hot chick and turn her into a climber than dreaming about finding a hot chick who is a climber. There is a balance though, go to far into bar star land and the sex is great but your climbing suffers from lack of training...get a rock star and you end up with a porn addiction and tendonitis in your wrist. BE careful
  5. Last season Mike wasnt flying in so you had to go from Williams lake or further...the cost increase was astronomical. I think I was quoted 2 thousand a head with 6 I bailed last couple times I was in before that, it was around 700$ each for three of us
  6. Cal Chek is a little before Whistler and is the perfect girlfriend venue. The ice was wet but leadable with multiple lines last weekend.
  7. I was always under the impression your guys debit cards were somehow credit cards attached to your bank account I know canadians cant use debit anywhere but ATM's in the states, europe and so forth, although some of our credit union debit cards work at some US gas stations. Super weird about radium, but the way it works at gas stations if you use debit for a fill up then it pre-charges your account then credits it back, but its not 500$ maybe 75$
  8. As far as the CC and debit card thing go, our debit cards and your debit cards are not the same. I can NOT use my debit card anywhere but an ATM while travelling in the states and I get the same dings as you do here for using them. ~5$ Your guys debit is somehow connected to your CC or something? Just use credit card for gas purchases, dont try and use debit. Our debit cards have nothing to do with Visa which is why I cant pay with debit anywhere in the states. I do not get charged any other fees for using my Visa in the states, I have a basic Visa My data plan for my phone covers North America, Im sure you can add the same feature on yours then just use Skype to call home. Texting is free on IOs5 Anyways just use the debit at the ATM and credit cards for other purchases
  9. Typical,Formed, Ice Climbing, Winter season and Coastal are words that at times go together during the period of late Dec to March1 but most often those words only make brief appearances together for a few days usually mid week. Actually scratch typical that word hasn't been used to describe any season around here since the late 80's Your gonna be an awesome gym climber though
  10. jmace

    Ridin the rails

    has this been posted? Freaking awesome!!! http://www.redbull.com/cs/Satellite/en_INT/Video/red-bull-winch-sessions-episode-8-021242936897010
  11. I thought we could at least relive the near death experience after dodging the boxes full of wood someone lost on the hwy then deciding to drive the truck over the quad trail embankment into the creek which nearly ended up with a roll over The 1.5 hours of digging and 4 wheeling to get back out of the creek, which somehow managed to rip my tire from the rim and fill it up with mud and rock The two kids who managed to flip their quad break their limbs and were standing in the middle of the road in shock. The 9km of driving 5km an hour with one wailing beat up 15 year old girl and her 16 yr old broken arm and ribs moaning boyfriend packed in to the truck. Then the longest wait ever for the ambulance all the while watching the truck slowly sink to the ground as the tire deflated...which meant creative jacking and blocking for an hour to get the tire off... What a day...
  12. The trail is awesome its become popular among the hiking and scrambling crowd looking for a new trail and view as well as folks scrambling crossover. ITs doing just great. How you start NEB has nothing to do with this trail
  13. Climbed the route this week, sorry Wayne. There is no camp anymore so no key required. The road is 2wd to the parking area, however there is one spot that may be troublesome. But a corrolla or something made it through, depends on your comfort otherwise any light suv is fine. no alder scratch either. We took the Sprungcok direct start and it was great climbing, the first pitch is half buried still. The descent anchors are decent, new tat on almost all stations. The gully is snow filled, we managed to traverse off climbers left on a obvious ledge at the bottom of the last rap. We installed a 2 nut station and rapped most of the snow field. We then kicked steps the rest of the way. Drew suggests a South side approach up and over the steinbok ibex col, check it out on google earth may be worth doing? The descent from Ibex to Les Cornes is in a short snow couloir, axe possibly needed? Sprungcok beta http://www.squamishclimbing.com/topos/Anderson-River-1207.pdf
  14. Thats too bad, it was there in June of this year. With regards to the glacier crossing the North Rib glacier is much less threatening and the route is quite good. Then you can use the cross over descent trail to your bivy and then just pick up your stuff on the way down. PLenty of safe sites and water. My thoughts were a few thin pins on the rack would make the route protect better, but we had none.
  15. http://www.ubc-voc.com/wiki/images/7/7e/Crossover_Pass_Descent.pdf
  16. Get back to work, finish that paper
  17. What I should have said is I climbed 8 of the 11 pitches on Thursday We chose a turn around time of 5 pm since finding the trail entry point through the alder paths in the scree fields would be impossible in the dark. This turned out to be a wise choice, we had a reasonable amount of trouble in the fading light and the rain that also started. Two poles are highly recommended and lots of time. Wayne, right up your alley man!!
  18. Bruce Kay put up a new line in the North Joffre Creek area, most notably an ice climbing venue and now also a summer climbing area. Rock is awesome and I climbed the line on Thursday. Here is the topo what he has to say about it and some pics Top of the fourth pitch is under the roof at the obvious crack heading up and over. This fifth pitch is BD blue cam size for 30m Bring some tat and rings/mallions to beef up the raps if you go. Double ropes to get off, almost every pitch is 50m Have fun
  19. jmace

    Peyote

    Perfect, lets use those to fly out instead of paying for the heli....
  20. ITs gonna be perfect, after mid next week we should embark on a major pattern change towards more summer like conditions. but you will need to make daily sacrifices to the weather gods to keep this on track
  21. jmace

    Europa?

    Gets tonnes of traffic, falcon closure for a couple more weeks http://squamishaccess.ca/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/chief-closure-v2.pdf
  22. Heard they may not even have a season up there this summer. Maybe the col will reform now. Apparently the parking lot is still under 1m of snow/debris
  23. How about fixing/blazing the rough trail between Barleys blue ribbon train off the above and beyond trail and into the base of the solarium. That would be cool if there was a loop, plus lots of good climbing back there now! http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2905&p=14256&hilit=backside#p14256
  24. Ice-Suicide Bluffs Whistler BC Humour - Didn't Make the Jump Cragging-Yellow Edge Cima Piccolo Alpine - Totenkirchl Scenic -East Ridge Taillefer BC Bouldering - West Vancouver
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