jmace

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/872171/TR_Seton_Lake_FA_Piss_n_Vinega#Post872171

Went for a rip on the Duffy, Rambles is wet and thin, everything else is shaky white and wet, folks are climbing syncro but looked pretty wet from the road to me. Go to the Rockies or wait a couple weeks (ish?) I climbed Rambles centre with Drew and it was a soaker and thin, day tripped from Van.

Hey if you like betting on outliers.....-22c in Vancouver

YVR

NJC doesnt happen until late in the season, maybe late Feb to early April. Dont be fooled by how close it looks, in big snow it may take you the better part of a day to go from the creek crossing to Frommage Suisse. The parking lot is kept open as a staging area for heli skiers coming home, they come back through that drainage. Besides the low snow coverage it hasnt even been below 0 at those elevations very much so far this fall. Cayoosh summit which is higher than NJC Generally there is NO ice in SWBC until late Dec and even then thats if your lucky.

Definitely sucks if you are not logged in, may push people to log in IF they know it will reduce the mid post ad.

There should be some ice in that neck of the woods by late December if we get a reasonable winter, otherwise you need a strong arctic outbreak for 4-5 days before anything climbable happens in Hope.

[video:youtube]MgOq9pBkY0I

There a few where he downgraded but many many more that were upgraded. Besides the pretty pictures and layout, I would have to say its a rather poor select guide book. Most of the routes are not select and there are many that have not been climbed in decades, even in Mclane they were noted as being overgrown. I hope Mclanes guide comes out this winter.

there has to be a billion TR's here for you to peruse...

Ya its a perplexing spot, turns out if you do actually follow the guide book line by going left to those cracks then stand up and walk back over its super super chill. However its scary as all hell to commit to that not knowing whats going to happen. Looks like you hit up all the intro to Squamish classics, nice!

Mammut gives you 15-16 falls on a single strand at 55kg before they suggest you retire. I think the point here is that if you do go light and you do fall then the rope will not break unless you cut it. But your right its not rated as a single...but then if you use doubles for wandering routes your often climbing on a single...basically dont fall

half ropes are rated for single strand falls.

Its a select guide for scrambles...its probably better than the 25 year old fairly book. post up some pics http://cairnpublishing.com/guidebooks/scrambles.htm

Its open now

http://www.ubc-voc.com/mediawiki/images/7/7e/Crossover_Pass_Descent.pdf

Apparently the baby is flapping its wings...another week or so..maybe two

Last year it was the 15th. If it gets lifted it will be posted here. There are other worthy routes to do though that get you up there. Like Millenium Falcon to either the grande finale or MF upper or Black Dyke

I found the beginning of the N Rib to be thin but nothing a pin or two wouldnt make a little more reasonable. Way less of a gamble than the death glacier. You just wander out of the forest, which is your descent trail, and onto the route...pretty casual. You could bivy at the base of the route and pick your kit up on the way down. Makes for a pretty chill day trip. At the notch either bail onto the descent trail or leave the packs and pick off the summit.

That book seems awfully dated...these days its all about numerical weather prediction, humans drawing maps are pretty much done.

Many places run their own weather models that are not NOAA, such as UW or even your own home computer. I see many links for past weather, why do you feel that this is important for "reading the weather" ? I think the biggest mistake folks make who want to learn more about weather is not looking at model initialization times and model domains. For instance the Unisys site shows a model domain of hundreds of mi/km...thats pretty much useless for what you probably want. The UW site will offer you the easiest intro into weather. The WRF models are the leading models used by most. The smallest grid such as the 1 1/3 km will give the best insight into local weather. First thing you should always do is find out when it was initialized. A model most people miss is the time heights, below is the one for YVR from UW, the site the hamman posted. Reading from right to left I can easily pick out cloud levels and temps at elevation. Tomorrow morning, June 08 12z we have a freezing level of 850 mb (1500m) with clouds and precip tapering off in the afternoon freezing levels rising and staying mostly cloudy overnight with the cloud deck at about 1500m. A nice product for mountain climbers Cheers

The approach is, the actual climb was upgraded to 10a... I saw the weird grades in the new book too...

Re: Garfield Try laughing crack in the bluffs, also of the same caliber. Jungle warfare now has a couple bolted variations to that start.

Squamish Buttress with Butt Face variation, South Arete, Sickle, Rambles, Skywalker(busy), One Scoop of Delicious Dimples, Sunshine Chimney, Cream of White Mice, Slot Machine, Old age->Sparkies->Wonderland, Papoose1, Europa(some hate it), Great Drain, Jungle Warfare. Cruels shoes is old school 10d and apron strings is hard 10b