KaskadskyjKozak

What is a "non-Joseph folk"? You are, Kevbone.

Last Sunday night I could have eaten my own liver.

what are you doing on the computer? oh...you're like the rest of us assclowns I'm thinking about climbing and waiting for the weekend

Hey, the weather is nice, let's climb! Spray assclown: Naw, I'm too busy spraying out of my ass about world poverty.

A comforting mythology for you to be sure. Reality is rather more complicated though: Where's the photo of you protesting your student loans?

Ha! As if the global poor are neither capable of or haven't been articulating their own resistances to capitalist globalization in every corner of the planet. Where have you been for the last ten years? Speaking of "Resistance"... Gets better every time.... Or in the case of Prole... confiscating grain from peasants to sell below market price to show how his ideology "works"

better yet, mix up some caipirinhas! sounds tasty, but harder to come by here in the land of the non-brazilian wax? Most of our state liquor stores in WA carry cachaca. All you need besides that is limes and unrefined sugar (brown sugar works well though).

better yet, mix up some caipirinhas!

STFU, Kevbone!

I'm sorry that you gentlemen don't have the balls or the sense of duty to do what needs to be done if such a crime were ever to happen. Thank God there are enough out there that are willing to die for their country and defend it and it's constitution "from enemies both foreign and domestic." WTF are you talking about? I'm a patriot. I just don't think it's OK to say "I'll be the first to put a bullet in his head" when referring to a president who is violating the constitution. That's why we are a nation of laws. If the president violates his oath, we already have ways of dealing with that, and none of them involve you getting to put a bullet in his head because you feel like it. You don't get to hide behind your oath on that one. I don't care how many bullets you have in you. Your statements were wrong & misguided. I have to agree with Rob on this one. No matter who is in power, we have a group shrilly accusing them of "shredding the constitution and trampling our rights". It's not a big step from this kind of thinking coupled with the "last resort" option proposed by Scott that leads to anarchy.

that's my first choice and looks like a fantastic trek but this is my buddy's first trip out after a 6 week layoff...i think a repeat will be in order later in the season that's the info i'm looking for...QS looks like more of a "challenge" but the Arm looks more condusive for what's needed thanks all!! peace, -T I climbed the Quien Sabe in mid August a few years ago and crevasses were hardly an issue. The approach to Boston Basin is steeper and more strenuous than the approach up the arm, but it is gorgeous. It's not that much longer in terms of time. As a day trip, I'd definitely go with the loop hike as a first choice, and the car-to-car up the arm as the second choice. Last choice would be to ascend and descend via the QS. Enjoy!

Yeah Telemarker why don't you post some personal insults or political analysis or your opinion of what ought to done about health care or a picture of a fat housecat? That's the kind of thing that would really add some VALUE to this site! :tup: I really don't think cc.com has hit the point where there are too many trip reports so people should start self-moderating/censoring them.

Yeah. And if they need a glory hole you would apply right? Piss off, Kevbone!

STFU, you are a government employee, with full medical benefits and you don't friggin pay a penny for it. So when you are on your own, live in a REAL world, paying REAL bills then you'll earn right to speak punk ass. Hey bud! Missed you! I owned my own business and took care of my own insurance before jumping on the free medical bandwagon. If you are struggling so badly to pay your health care, why don't you just man up and join the Air Force or something? They have it pretty nice over there! Or do you just want to bitch? Does the Air Force need masseurs? - if, so I'm sure ggk would be happy to apply.

Ascend the Qui'en Sabe and descend Sahale arm for a great loop climb.

Dru. Brianmoore = Kboner.

Nice TR and great photos!!

I hear he brings whisky with him so that might work...

Thanks, man!

Trip: Sherpa - West Ridge Date: 6/28/2009 Trip Report: Friday night, 11 pm. Again I failed to pack anything in advance, and was looking at less than 5.5 hours sleep. As I finished stuffing my assembled gear into my pack, including a butt-load of group gear and a mid-size rack, I decided something needed to go - if not for weight, then for bulk. The rock shoes came to mind, so I pulled them. Not too heavy, but I should be fine with just my Triolets, which I used to lead Stuart last year, and this is just 5.4, right? The next day I met up with Bishop66 and JH at the Eastgate P&R at 5:30 and it was already light. We hit the Esmerelda trailhead at about 8 and were moving soon after. Temps were pretty cool which was welcome for this approach which always sticks in my mind as hot, dry, and dusty. Most of the snow I encountered a month earlier on my climb of Ingalls (E ridge) was gone. The only patches of any size were near Longs Pass. There is still a steep headwall of snow on the N face of the pass right up to the top and going down to just below the "tapeworm", but soon it melts out again. We avoided the steepest part which seemed to be pretty firm by scrambling down a moat, and then onto the snowfield. View back up to Long's Pass: Soon we were at the Turnpike/Beverly turnoff and headed uphill on the way trail I remember so well from my Stuart descent in the middle of the night a year ago. Spot where you start uphill: Now the pain begins! After an hour or two of unpleasant steep hiking through brush we hit the stream and the ravine before the ridge we needed to cross. Unfortunately we chose to cross a bit too high and did some exposed scrambling up and then back down on nastly loose crap. Once over the ridge we contoured at 6200 feet to hit the first snow patch below the waterfall/cliff band and our objective. The lower snow patch had a lot of foliage debris from avy's. We traversed left under the waterfall(s) and up some rocky heather benches. Eventually we regained snow. At this point we really wanted to finish the approach, and were slowing down. After interminable slogging and rock hopping we finally found the flat bivy rock at 7400 and set up camp. All together, including breaks, the approach took 7.5 hours. We had plenty of time to eat, boil water and relax with the late sunset. The temps started to drop with the sun and the winds picked up so we crashed before sunset. The forecast was for some gusting, and we had bailed on a Rainier climb due to related weather instabilities - Sherpa was the consolation prize. At around 10 pm the winds kicked up pretty fierce, probably gusting at 35 or 40 mph. This lasted most of the night, giving us little rest, and not the warmest-fuzzy feeling about climbing rock the next day. Nevertheless we had put in some sweat-equity, so we'd better earn the prize! We got up at 4:30 and were moving at 6. The snow up to the col was bullet-proof and we used crampons. We stuck with snow patches as much as possible, even on the thinning 35+ degree parts up high. We got to the col around 7 and it was damn windy and cold. My partners also seemed to have cold feet - literally and figuratively. There were hints floated about bailing. We could see Adams and Rainier, both had clear skies. Were we dumbasses for changing the venue? Maybe the winds were worse on the summit of Rainier? Didn't look like it. I started setting up the anchor and we roped up. I primarily used the route description from summitpost.org. The first "pitch" (class 4) went text book. I think, however, that I must have gotten off route somewhere in the 2nd pitch, when I moved right, because after the 3rd pitch, I was not seeing the "sandy benches" on the S side of the false summit I was expecting, but a single ledge that was still a pitch away from where I needed to be. There were rap stations just about everywhere which made things confusing. This "4th" pitch was short, but I had trouble getting up it, slipping in my climbing boots which just don't smear well enough. Damn! I should not have pulled out my shoes the night before! Fortunately Bishopp66 stepped up and led the short pitch which ended with some loose handholds. We encountered quite a bit more loose stuff than we had anticipated on this climb. At this point we were near where we needed to be to get to the crux pitch. Also, it was finally warm enough to take off a layer of clothing. JH had been wearing a puffy up until now. Despite being close to the crux pitch, I nevertheless burned another hour or so route-finding and getting confused by the route description while on belay. I finally got reoriented and got the party together. It was 12:50, we had taken 6 hours already to do a route that should take 4-6 to summit. Add 2+ hours more to top out, and 6-8 to get from the summit to the cars and we are back home between 1 and 3am... so? JH wanted to go for the summit and Bishopp66 wanted to bail, but said I could break the tie. Having bailed once earlier this year and feeling like crap from that trip I voted to go for it. I quickly started up the crux pitch. As I climbed I was looking for the infamous cave - where the hell is it? From the ground and the route description it seemed to be quite a bit up. I passed a flat sloping rock over a large gap, and Bishopp66 yelled "that's your cave". It didn't seem very hard, but I did go left around it, which then forced me to go back right higher with an awkward step across. Maybe that was the crux and I somehow skipped it but paid with a 5.4 or higher move above? I got to a nice belay alcove and brought in the other guys. It looked like we had one more hard move to get up a tight chimney above us and we'd be home free. I started up, but just could not get the footing or the nerve to make a move. It was just too damn awkward and I wanted to smear, damn it! We didn't have time to fart around at this point. I left in my bottom piece and switched tie-in's with Bishopp66 for a try. He grunted, cursed, and made it! Soon he was ready to belay. I started up. Again no luck and I'm on top-rope. Fuck it, it's late. I pulled on the cam he had set and french-freed it. Later we figured out that this was the "cave" and the crux move. It looked like there was a short scramble to finish off the climb, but I stayed tied-in anyways to check it out. On the way up there was one move that was a little stiff, so I put a piece in, topped out at a rappel station and tied off the rope to the anchor for my followers to prusik up if need be. Then I prusiked on the tail of the rope up to the left across a gap, an unprotected slab, and shit found myself looking at another step across. I presumed I was 2 feet from the summit at this point but I'm not going to stand up or step across to be sure (I didn't see the balanced rock, but probably would have). My follower had most of my pro, or I could have put in a piece. View across the slab I crossed towards the summit (I believe): It's 3:20. I'm done. I moved back to the anchor. My followers came up and we planned the descent. My second follower had dropped a chock pick and left one of my pieces down in the alcove below. So I downclimbed the final scramble: I then rappelled to the "cave" first, retrieved my piece, then continued to near the bottom of the crux pitch. I tied a runner off about 30 feet off the deck and clipped in to see how my followers felt about rapping to the end of the rope (which was knotted) and downclimbing 15 feet. JH was cool with it. Bishopp66 was not. So, we had to sacrifice a couple runners and do a short rappel. On the rope pull after this "off the beaten path" rappel I pulled down a rock the size of a small loaf of bread which fell about 8 feet to my right. We then scrambled up to the first short pitch that Bishopp66 had led. We didn't know where a rappel straight down would go, never mind possibly getting a rope hung up, so we retraced out climbing route, which meant a short rappel, a belay around a corner (exposed class 3 - again not everyone was comfortable unroped), another short rappel, and, finally a double-rope rappel back to the base of the climb. Too damn many rappels and belaying! It's now 6:15. We hauled ass down to camp, packed up and plunge-stepped mostly snow fields to about 6100 feet, hiked back over the ridge and ended up back in the stream below the ravine in a better (lower) place then we had entered the day before. We continued moving quickly to the bottom of the valley and up to the Longs Pass trail. Now it was starting to get dark, and we were getting tired. About 500 feet below the pass we had to put headlamps on. It was about 10 pm, dark, and the moon was up. A very pretty night. The snow was getting hard and icy, so two of us put on crampons and got our ice axes out. We went straight up the snow, finishing up at the pass on the steep headwall (45+ degrees), which was a fun way to finish. It wasn't quite front pointing, but even the third person up wasn't exactly walking up bucket-footholds. After a quick break we embraced the suck and moved down the trail as quickly as we could, arriving at the cars at 11:45. The drive home sucked, going to bed at 2:30 sucked more, and getting up for work sucked the most. Not wussing out and not going home empty-handed made the suckage worthwhile though! Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, set of nuts, a handful of cams, lots of double runners. Approach Notes: Mostly snow free to Longs Pass, 400 feet of snow on the N side of Longs Pass. Discontinuous snow from 6100 feet below Sherpa up to the Stuart-Sherpa col. No snow on the climbing route.

I ended up doing a S approach and saw the glacier myself... too late for beta of course to do the route since I had obviously made other plans

The irreversible tyranny of the majority. yeah, that was real "irreversible". dumbass.

Don't know, but I've seen them on Mt. Dickerman (west of the crest, and lower and 6000 feet)

Fixt. ahem

Nice! Have you gotten back there to bag Fischer Chimneys yet?