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Illini

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Everything posted by Illini

  1. Most of the guy's article was speculation, but I did like this; Regardless Bush is not smarter than me, 1206
  2. I have seen the same thing on sport climbs in the Squamish area, only the writing was in permanent marker. I was quite suprised. The small area only had about 5 routes the easiest of which was 5.10c and the next easiest being 5.11a. Its kind of sad that some one felt the need to label the routes when any dumb could count off the bolt lines from the guide book.
  3. It just so happens that I have the guide book at work. Brogan Spire - North Face 5.6 A3 Smiths last great crack prbolem still awaits a free ascent. despite excellent quallity rock the inconvient location deters any attempts teh enitire route might go free, as the second pitch cuts around teh roof rather than pullin over it. Start below the obvius seam extending down from a large roof, midway along the north wall.
  4. The knife can not open when a biner in clipped to the hole. Look at where the notch in the knife blade goes when it is closed.
  5. My $.02 MEC branded stuff is usually well designed, made of good materials, and low in price. My brother has a pair of fall line bibs that he loves. I have a pair of softshell bibs and some cycling clothing. I haven't had any thing long enough to personally comment on its longevity but what I have heard is all good. I will likely pick up one of those pullovers if I head that way any time this winter. Its just a pain in the to get in the US unless you intend to go through Vancouver or have a Canadian friend.
  6. 21st-28th Check their website.
  7. I saw a slideshow/presntion by Tim O'neil last year. Along with several others Tim helped him scale Yosimite. He jugged the whole way, but with out any legs he had to do thousands of chinups to ascend. How many chinups can you do? I get like 20... weak .
  8. This policy is the same (almost) as Oakley's. While Oakley's does not cover scratches you could always break the frame and then send them in. I had a pair of Eye Jackets that I bought in high school. The were going strong through 3 returns. I didn't like them much after having them for ~8 years but I couldn't just buy a new pair when I knew that I could always warrenty them. I solved that problem by losing them somewhere in Idaho. I have a pair of Natives right now and I think I might also try out there warrenty policy because the finish is flaking off on the ear pieces.
  9. Wildthings makes a wind pant out of EPIC sans full side zip. If you call they might do it for you.
  10. If you read this thread you now know how to open a standard bike u-lock. There was mention on this thread of a possible return program with Kryptonite. I thought I would pass on this url. Kryptonite Return Website
  11. Oh yea I know of a Hostess outlet a few blocks for my house. mmmm... Twinkies
  12. Whats up Matt. You here for good now? I have seen a few good shows but I rarely get out on the weekends. My girl would be a better resource. I can ask her for a list later today. Either of you guys have a preference? Blues, rock, country western? You are from Iowa and all Matt. Jason
  13. Grocery Outlet 3855 Southwest Murray Boulevard, Beaverton, OR 97005 (503) 641-2970 phonephone | map | save Ahh! the joys of the internet. Try Superpages its great. Better yet try google! http://www.google.com/local?hl=en&q=Grocery+Outlet&near=Portland%2C+OR&btnG=Search Maybe you can't find any because you live in the Pearl District, right? Welcome to PDX BTW.
  14. Wild Things basic windshirts are $25 right now direct from Wild Things. I have two. I like that they are a pull over as opposed to a jacket. They are tailored fairly well and fit well under a soft shell over your base layer for cold conditions. My $0.02
  15. It's good to know that the government is watching out for me. 2 months after I returned 12 of these biners
  16. Wayne, I think I can picture the direction you must have gone. You went straight up after a long flat grassy ledge area?If I am picturing it right, thats crazy. How far from the summit was it when you topped the ridge? How long was this pitch you climbed? If I got the location right, from there NOLSe and I traversed right across a more compact rock section to a small outcropping below the final face. I am certainly glad we never saw these bolts you speak of. I also think it would be a worthy endevor to pool knowledge and come up with an improved route description. Illini
  17. Catbirdseat, care to relate where you get your information or explain your thinking?
  18. Climb: Mt. Thielson- McLoughlin Memorial(North Face) Date of Climb: 8/29/2004 Trip Report: Two weekends ago, NOLSe and I got rained out of the trail head to Mt. Triumph. We headed home to PDX, split up for a few hours to catch so sleep and meet up again to head down to do the North Face of Mt. Thielson. An early start got us to the PCT about sunrise and the base of the face around 8:30. After pitch one, on which we found a piton (indicating the correct route?), the route did not follow what was described in the guide book "Oregon High". Pro was difficult to find and often consisted of small brass nuts. There were two long sections of unprotectable rock. We found there to be some loose rock. We topped out below the 5.0 section to the summit around 5:00 PM, but decided, F*%@ That, and headed down. We were back at the in 15:30 round trip. This route is not recomended by either NOLSE or myself. Gear Notes: Much of the gear was small brass Approach Notes: Take the PCT from main trail. At sharp obvious switch back continue up over ridge. Cross to far side of talus field.
  19. Works with but it also works with Which is cool because I own some and they are lighter (barely). NOLSE, I remember us having a hard time slipping the pulley unto the nose of the BD oval wire?
  20. It has a anti-persperiant in it not a deoderant, ie you can present said hunnies with dry balls but still with what ever stank you have been stewing.
  21. It landed on part of the ridge that was snow covered, a little farther north than you are probably thinking.
  22. I had business with Backcountry Store today and asked about this. They confirmed that they had recieved a recall notice but she could not tell me the specific batch. Figure I just bought 12 of the F'ers. Now I have to find some thine else to climb on this weekend. Time to buy some more superflies On a side note this might be good for me as I destroyed one last weekend. J
  23. Forth coming. They need to be developed.
  24. Climb: Finger of Fate, ID-North Face/Open Book Date of Climb: 7/10/2004 Trip Report: Last Summer Brock, McKenzie, Ron and I attempted this climb but due to a late start and imposing looking clouds we bailed after the first pitch. Later NOLSe and Brock made a marathon run back to Idaho to successful hit this climb. I’d been itching to try out the Sawtooths again. NOLSe, Pandora, Brock and I left NOLSe’s house 6:00 PM Friday. We hit the trail head ~5:30 am Saturday and were hiking by 6:00 am. With an end run, right, around Hell Roaring Lake, a stop to stash water at the upper lake and a stop for to the punishing return of Mexican food I had previously ingested, we hit the base of the finger a little after 9:00. Brock, having climbed the finger before, insisted on leading the opposite pitches from his last trip. This gave me pitches 1, 3-4, and the summit block. Brock and I agreed that pitch 1 was probably the crux of the climb with its short OW section. Though not the hardest, Pitch 5 was the choice pitch of the climb. NOLSe and Pandora followed behind right on our heels. The summit block was eventful to say the least. After crawling under the summit block, the last pitch to the summit is a short ~15 feet and it protected by a single ancient homemade piton. With Brocks outstanding beta I was successfull in my attempt to test the integrity of afore mentioned piton. Having just pitched off the last foot of the climb and loading a brand new biner across the small ledge in front of the piton, I decide to let Brock finish the climb. He removed my now crooked biner and pulled the move with no problem. Following up I found significantly easier beta. 2 Raps and ~5 more miles out and we were back at the car 11 hours from our start time. Pizza, ~10 hours of sleep, pancakes outside of Boise, and another ~10.5 hours of driving brought us back to NOLSe’s house 49 hours after we left. Yea it far away, but this was a damn fine moderate route. In comparison to Outerspace, I’d say the Finger rocks due to a more sustained moderate level of climbing. The 5.8 pitch on Outerspace is hard to beat but when comparing the whole climbs this route on the Finger might get the higher quality rating. Gear Notes: Medium to large rack to 4 inches, 60M rope to link 3-4, We were able to find a topo for this route if you are interested PM NOLSe or myself. Approach Notes: Mosquitoes chap my ass… no really. 4X4 not required getting to the upper trail head but good ground clearance is highly recommended.
  25. Maybe that describes your friend, hence the looks. I have only dealt with them over the phone, but I have recieved only the best customer service. I special ordered through the store and got a call back a few days later to make sure every thing was to my specifications. Jamison, the guy I dealt with was great.
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