Dr_Crash

Bump. I am getting into road biking, and because of that the s720i (or the s725) looks good to me. It would give me something I could use biking, at the gym, or climbing and skiing, for less than the price of a Suunto plus a bike computer with wireless cadence. But I'd like to know how the altimeter fares? Did you get the Polar? Did you climb with the altimeter, and how good was it? The Polar manual says: I don't know if it's just protective legalese or if they have a reason to distrust their altimeter for serious use. drC

Don't know how people like it but REI Outlet has the Primus Omnifuel stove on clearance for $83 (used to be $130). It will work with both gas canisters and fuel bottles, all fuels, and of course is heavier than a canister-only stove but more flexible. drC

Hi, I just bought some mountaineering boots and need crampons for them. The boots have a steel 1/2 shank and a sole that is compatible with all kinds of crampons. I have no idea what to get. From what I've read it looks like some hinged crampons, semi-automatic or automatic, would be good. It looks to me like semi-automatic might be best because 1/ not all boots are compatible with a toe bail, and I have no idea what my next pair of boots will look like in a few years (cancel that argument if more and more boots get the toe thingy those days), and 2/ I've read about automatic crampons getting off on ice with shoes that are not hyper super stiff (even though my boots may not qualify for climbing water ice any time soon because of the 1/2 shank, I've read that about the Makalu for example). But again, I don't know a thing about crampons. I'd like something that works well for my current application (climbing the Cascade volcanoes and glaciated peaks) and hopefully will also be okay for more (water ice as encountered on alpine climbs) as I progress as a mountaineer. Thanks for your advice. As always, links to places where good gear is on sale are appreciated too. drC

I ended up with a pair of Millet Alti GTX (general moutaineering boots). They're not as light as the Trango S (they weigh 1.8 kg, ~ 4 pounds) but they're waterproof and durable (a store I went to said they stopped selling the Trango because of too many returns). They only have a 1/2 steel shank, like the Trango, which I hope is okay on the kind of slopes I'll encounter around here with crampons. I also considered the Makalu but got the cheaper Millet, though I now realize I have had Telemark Pyrenees ship the Makalus to my house in France for a price difference of just 8 Euros . I hope I won't regret that (the Makalu fit me a bit better because they had 1/2 sizes and their FR 42.5 was great for my narrow ankles; the Millet I have is a US 10 / FR 43.3 and I wear a US 8.5 / FR 42 in street shoes; my heel lifts a bit on a slope in the Millet---didn't try the Makalu on a slope). I can't wait to try the boots, maybe a short Tiger cable line hike on my way to work. drC

Missed the extra 20% off, I'm backing off Ropes come and go on sale all the time anyway...

People shouldn't be allowed to leave their trash on the mountain (any) unless it's a dedicate place where it will be picked up and moved to an appropriate place. Leave No Trace should apply everywhere. It would be nice if Everest climbers had to post a bond covering cleaning up, to be returned on proof that they came back with everything they hauled up. If not, the bond goes to cover cleanup, removal from site, and proper disposal. drC

I am looking for recommendations for mountaineering boots (besides the obvious that I need to try them and they need to fit). I'm looking for boots for 3-season mountaineering around the area mostly (I ski lift-served all the time in winter). What kind of shoes would be good for that? I do need and want to be able to slog in snow (glacier travel comes to mind) for example, and I want to be able to do a rock summit too. A friend told me "something like the La Sportiva Trango S because it's very lightweight" but it is not waterproof. Would that be an issue? I can also find boots that are water-proof in France (but indicated not for winter) for a similar price but they weigh 5 lbs. Any recommendations? Things to look for / be aware of? Pointers to Web sites with sales are good too (I am an 8 1/2 US). Thanks! drC

Good rope? I need a beginner rope for top-ropping at crags, and don't think that the non-dry is an issue on this one. Should I jump on the deal? Or is 10.5 mm too big by modern standards (I wsas told 10.2). What would you recommend for a rope bag? drC

I can confirm that the Mythos stretch. I went only one size down and they're already nice and comfy. I kind of wish I had the strength to endure the first few times in a 1 1/2 sizes down (no way for 2 1/2 like you Dryad, too scary ). I'll lace them up tight drC

Hi, I'm looking at buying an altimeter watch. I also want a HR monitor, and would like to avoid the "one watch per wrist" look. And I don't necessarily want to pay for features creep. With this in mind, I've been looking at the Suunto X3HR which has dead simple altimeter features (as in just show me the altitude and that's it) and no fancy weather functions. I don't care for a compass at all by the way (on the watch, that is). But I wonder which of the altimeter features you'd consider essential / great to have, and why; answers from people who've actually used them rather than lusted at them in a brochure and fantasized about their uses are better (though all answers are welcome, and I belong to the second category for a lot of things). Altitude alarm (nice in a whiteout)? Real-time vertical info? Whatever? drC

Good choice (I have a Barryvox myself but both are great, and the Tracker will give you a signal a bit sooner than a Barryvox used only in digital mode). The X1 is not a good choice from the info available on the Web. When it came out it seriously malfunctioned. It may be fixed now, but you can't tell which version of software a beacon is running. Now go get some friends and practice, and get some avalanche education if you haven't already (a level 1 class is good, and Bruce Tremper's book is a mine of info). The best case is that you won't use that beacon or that big-ass metal shovel of yours, and that can only happen through learning about the snowpack and avalanche danger. drC

Always a good idea to check the Avalanche center blog. And to contribute to it after your trips! Turn all years is a great source too. And competent friends are the best (and you learn from them). drC

Can't exaggerate a death (though I wouldn't be surprised) but sure can exaggerate the rumors of said death (as in Mark Twain's case). drC

Rodchester, we're saying the same thing. The lawyers uses more words and posted data for those who can't read on Beal's site. RuMR, I'm a bit confused by you. You tell me it's certified as a twin, I said no it's as a half (double) rope, then you lecture me that the Beal site says it's a double. Duh, yes. I'll just ignore the randomization in the rest of this thread. Whoever else, half rope and double rope: same thing. NOLSe, I'd love to see these numbers you asked for. I thought it'd be really tough to make a rope that works well as half (double) and twin, mostly because when both strands would be clipped in together, the impact forces would skyrocket, and then, well, have faith in your protection guys (where's the Eek! graemlin?) drC

OK, I must be dense. I still don't see any reference to the certification here (since the last sentence is yours, not Beal's). It is listed only as a half rope (double rope), *not* as a twin, by Beal. Again, read the first sentence... "Beal presents the very lightest DOUBLE ROPE." Not twin. They just say that it is as light and supple as a twin, not that it is a twin. But you may have information re: the certification that I can't see on that Web site. Are you one of these shop employees you're referring to? drC

Where does it says it's rated as a twin? It is a half rope, with "The lightness and free flow of a twin rope" (Beal's words) but the latter is just marketing, not an encouragement to use them as twins. drC

Leavenworth Mountain Sports has been advertising cheap shoes on this board. And REI has the Mythos for $89 instead of $120. drC

Fromt the top of my head, La Sportiva Mythos shoes $89 (reg. $120), some Mammut 10.5 Dry 60 m rope $159 (reg. $20x?), 20% off Camalots, some BD quickdraws, and other random stuff. drC

I'm new at this game, but was told yesterday by a rep for a rope brand to never use half ropes clipped together as twins. His explanation was that the force that would be put on a protection in a fall would be much greater (by about 30%) and the protection likely to fail. Twins are designed not to stress the protection as much and obviously need to be clipped together. drC

Thanks guys for putting this together. It was cool (and wet), and being the complete newbie I am, I learned stuff a the clinic (placing gear / building anchors). Thanks Dave and Eddie for the teaching. I didn't win anything (cries). And picked up a stomach virus. I may have met some of you though (I was the guy with the "slight " French accent). eternalX, were you the guy who come with his girlfriend and another friend who wanted to camp, and climbed that face on belay from Paul? It was fun. Marshall, if you read this and this hasn't decided yet, my vote for any extra money is to send it to the Access Fund. drC

By "shorter" head I meant that if you look at both axes from the side, the Raven head isn't as tall as the Air Tech Racing, and the teeth aren't as pronounced. Again, I can't tell if that matters or not. I guess I'll carry in self-arrest grip when conditions will warrant it, yes. What did you mean by "absolutely must carry in self-arrest grip?" That you'd carry in regular grip and switch to self-arrest as you fall, yourself? Rodchester, care to elaborate about the superiority of the Raven Pro? And re: price, I can get the Grivel cheaper than the BD through a friend, so no worries here (also $20 of difference for a tool I'll trust my life to and will use a long time isn't a factor either). drC

Right now I am using a 65 cm Grivel whatever (black shaft, traditional spike) loaned to me. If I need to return it (for example to climb with the person who lent it to me) I'd like to buy one of these two. I am looking for feedback from owners of both, and ideally someone who's tried both axes. The Raven Pro is 1.5 oz lighter, and has a real spike, which I like (though I don't know if it really is that much better than the cut shaft for glissading and getting purchase on ice, but I can imagine it is). The short head (height-wise) worries me, though I am not qualified to determine whether it is worse than the Grivel head or not. it is stainless steel, don't know if it makes a difference. The Grivel's head looks better to me (see disclaimer about me having no qualifications above) but I've read the teeth on the pick are too close to the shaft to do a boot-ax belay without damaging the rope (anybody can confirm this?). It's a bit heavier which feels nice swinging the ice. The weight may be a small liability when ski mountaineering, my main occupation so far, where the ax stays on my back most of the time. I am starting to climb though. After buying a 5.5 lbs 55 liter pack and skinning up a lot with it, I am also starting to believe in "lighter is better". Which one do you like best, or what do you like / dislike about one of these? Thanks, drC

I'd be interested (and do have glacier travel experience). Any more info on the tour? drC

If you also want to get an FRS radio, some of them (e.g. the Motorola Talkabout T5950) come with weather radio. A pair will typically set you back $40-$60. drC

Dru, you're pretty much right on my situation. I'm looking at Alpinist for mountain / adventure / inspiration porn, not for tips or things to do myself (yet). I used to spend about two months a year in the mountains as a kid (no climbing though, hiking) and am being drawn to them again after a long pause where sailing and skiing were my main occupations. For tips / instruction, the Web or specialized books seem better for that (feel free to recommend anything) I think. And of course, real people are even better. drC