Dr_Crash

The notch is much shallower on wiregates. Thanks guys for the input. I think that I'll get a mix of wirelocks (I like them, what can I say) and Hotwires or Livewires for my alpine draws. I like the Posiwire draws and could get some for sport and crag and switch out the dogbone for a sling when going alpine (assuming I can get organized, that is ). The nose on the wirelocks is huge, is that why they won't go through chains? That's a bummer. You'd think somebody would test that during design... drC

This is what I'd do: - Get a pass at the Summit at Snoqualmie. It's $300, and you'll be able to ski at Alpental which has great terrain (even for beginners) or even at the Summit the first few times if you want to start easy. - Get a rental ski package. Less than $150 for the season. Beginner / interm skis and average boots but fine to start. Get a package in a shop, not a resort, so you can decide to go ski Stevens or Crystal later to see other places. Or get Sky's skis and buy him pitchers But his skis may be a bit harder on a beginner than the rental ones. - Take a few lessons. There's a pretty cheap I believe collective class at Summit Central every Wednesday night from 7pm to 9pm for 6 or 8 weeks. I taught it last year and had 4 students in my group (the most advanced one) which isn't bad. - Invest also in a couple individual (private) lessons. Ask for someone certified, a Level 2 or better would be nice (Level 1 doesn't mean much). Take them after the collective, or one in the middle and one after. Don't buy gear this year. You'll make huge progress, and the gear you'll want to buy will be different from the gear you'll want. Going to AT after that will be a simple matter as all you'll need to learn is to skin up. Ski, ski, ski... I skied ~80 times last year, which isn't bad at all with a full time job! Skiing is great fun. Ski mountaineering is even greater fun! drC

Hi, I'm looking at getting a few wiregate carabiners for two applications: - Lightweight alpine draws. - Racking. I am a big fan of the keynose carabiners (Petzl, some BDs and some Kong IIRC but I don't have Kongs). For the draws, I'd like to get something similar, at least on the gear end of things. It looks like DMM has a wirelock design that would do the trick, but I found a thread where people agreed that this is not a great design. Why? The weight isn't that great either I think (41 g). Where can I see the Wild Country Helium Cleanwire around Seattle? Looks like another clean design with a wiregate. So that was for draws... For racking, what's most important? Weight and ease of racking/unclipping? For wired nuts, looks like a clean nose would be good too. drC

Learn to use a sponge, dishwashing soap, and your little hands to wash something by yourself, fogawdsake! drC

Get a second knife... drC

Bump. I am still ROTFL in my office and people are looking at me with weird faces... drC

I love spray. This thread is really fucked up and good Oh, and I wanted to know: is it okay to spoon with your partners while on a Romantic A3 pitch? I've never done aid climbing before... drC

Ken, would you post it? All IP rights preserved, of course drC

Fox, LOL!

Double post.

Oh oh, I'd be interested if the boss (wife) lets me go ... And I am a native French speaker, in case there's no other one on your trip. Plane tickets should be around $400, maybe a bit more. I'll ask my wife, she knows prices month by month If the trip started in March, then we could wait for SAS to do their usual Christmas promotion where you can fly there for $249 plus taxes. Could fly to Milan and drive to Cham, or fly to Paris and take something else. drC

The nut tool was just in my climbing bag. Not used at Marymoor. No, I don't think the kids made up with it, I got it back from them before we left and I think it fell off my bag. It was last Wednesday. drC

Got to post that marinade recipe right here, now... Thanks drC

Mammut rep, Is it okay to mark the slings on the black sleeve that protects the stitching with something like nail polish (which is common for carabiner marking)? The sleeve will soak the polish and its solvent initially, and that's what I'm wondering about (since it may get on the sling underneath). I did mark a few slings like that before switching to sewing a bit of thread on the side of the sleeve instead (doesn't go through the sling; thanks fenderfour for the idea), and wonder what to do with them. If there's a risk of them not being full strength anymore, I may save them for setting topropes at Exit 38 for my kids, who weigh 50 lbs and shouldn't put much stress on them; or ditch them if it's really risky. drC

Regardless of human impact (or not), glaciers receding also will have a dramatical effect on our water procurement system. Drinkable water is one of our most precious resources, and glaciers an important source for it. If they recede, that resource shrinks too. drC

Regardless of human impact (or not), glaciers receding also will have a dramatical effect on our water procurement system. Drinkable water is one of our precious resources, and glaciers an important source for it. If they recede, that resource shrinks too. drC

If you're fine with a beginner (5.8, 5.9 in the gym) I'd be interested in going (I can belay you, of course, on anything); PM me. I have a membership there already. drC

Black nut tool (BD I believe, with bottle opener at the end), marked with a pinkish star, and accompanied by a few feet of 2 mm cord. drC

Among the MSR Coyote, SMC picket, and Yates Expedition picket, is one better than the others? They're all about the same price and weight (the Yates is a bit lighter). It looks like the Yates and the SMC will go in better because they have a pointed end. I'm leaning towards the Yates (poubnding surface and a pointed end that doesn't seem as threatening to my pack and body as the SMC). I have carried a borrowed Coyote but haven't used it, so I don't know how easy it is to pound in hard stuff. Any recommendation backed by experience? drC

I just got that rope in 60 m dry during a trip to Portland a week ago (listed price $129 w/ free cordelette, minus 30% off for Labor Day ). I used it to bring my kids to their first real rock (toproping). Handled very nicely, I like the size and the suppleness of the sheath. drC

A 21 cm and a 17 cm screws are on the way.

We went to the Grit Scone yesterday and had a blast. The kids (6 1/2 and 5) were all excited to be on their first real rock, and they all climbed three times before night and rain coming down on us chased us. We'll go back drC

Thanks guys. The Petzl have the handle and hanger already. I've been reading a lot about having two 21 cm screws for anchors (not V-threads, since Dru's one at a time method looks just fine to me), but I'd think a 17 cm and a 21 cm would work well for that too, right? One anchor may not be as bomber, but more versatility... drC

My primary application for now will be being able to anchor on glacier, though I definitely want to do some ice climbing next year. Being that those things are pricey, would 17 cm would work well for both applications? Or do you actually appreciate having your 21 cm for glacier, in which case I may get one of each size? I found this on the Web: "You should carry at least two lengths of screws - medium (about 17cm) for quick placements in good ice, and long (about 22cm) for belays, reaching solid ice deep in curtain and making V-threads for repelling. Some climbers carry super-short (10-12cm) screws for shallow ice." Looks like either 2 long screws or one of each. Can you make V-threads with different screw lengths? drC - Ice screw (and many other things) newbie

Another question for snoboy. "Long:" two 21 cm, two 17 cm, one of each for versatility? What's the best combo? drC