Dr_Crash

Among the MSR Coyote, SMC picket, and Yates Expedition picket, is one better than the others? They're all about the same price and weight (the Yates is a bit lighter). It looks like the Yates and the SMC will go in better because they have a pointed end. I'm leaning towards the Yates (poubnding surface and a pointed end that doesn't seem as threatening to my pack and body as the SMC). I have carried a borrowed Coyote but haven't used it, so I don't know how easy it is to pound in hard stuff. Any recommendation backed by experience? drC

I just got that rope in 60 m dry during a trip to Portland a week ago (listed price $129 w/ free cordelette, minus 30% off for Labor Day ). I used it to bring my kids to their first real rock (toproping). Handled very nicely, I like the size and the suppleness of the sheath. drC

A 21 cm and a 17 cm screws are on the way.

We went to the Grit Scone yesterday and had a blast. The kids (6 1/2 and 5) were all excited to be on their first real rock, and they all climbed three times before night and rain coming down on us chased us. We'll go back drC

Thanks guys. The Petzl have the handle and hanger already. I've been reading a lot about having two 21 cm screws for anchors (not V-threads, since Dru's one at a time method looks just fine to me), but I'd think a 17 cm and a 21 cm would work well for that too, right? One anchor may not be as bomber, but more versatility... drC

My primary application for now will be being able to anchor on glacier, though I definitely want to do some ice climbing next year. Being that those things are pricey, would 17 cm would work well for both applications? Or do you actually appreciate having your 21 cm for glacier, in which case I may get one of each size? I found this on the Web: "You should carry at least two lengths of screws - medium (about 17cm) for quick placements in good ice, and long (about 22cm) for belays, reaching solid ice deep in curtain and making V-threads for repelling. Some climbers carry super-short (10-12cm) screws for shallow ice." Looks like either 2 long screws or one of each. Can you make V-threads with different screw lengths? drC - Ice screw (and many other things) newbie

Another question for snoboy. "Long:" two 21 cm, two 17 cm, one of each for versatility? What's the best combo? drC

How often does someone come with a better ice screw mousetrap? I can either jump on a 25% off sale now, or wait if it makes sense. I won't need the screws until next April/May or so I think. drC

Thanks for the ideas! drC

... and I didn't want to hijack the rope marking thread, here's another question. I got some Mammut Dyneema slings, and marked them on the black sleeve which is around the sewing (because of the way the slings are constructed, those don't have a flap that is independent and could be marked). I marked them using fingernail polish, and it took a few applications since the sleeve was soaking up the polish. I wonder if the polish (or the solvent in it) may be bad for the sling, which I can't look at since it's hidden below the black sleeve. I'd rather waste some $$$ and throw the marked slings (or keep them around for some non-climbing use) than risk a sudden break. And yes, I could have thought about that first but it was in my first newbie days... drC

Yes that is the same jacket I lost. It will be visible, it's just that I can't see why anybody would want to come near to those crevasses and moat right by the cleaver and Emmons. drC

Bluewater sells a marking pen (non-permanent) to mark their ropes (the one I got on sale doesn't have two patterns; bi-patterns are not that easy to find, actually). I should have gotten one for mine. UIAA and rope manufacturers don't recommend marking with a pen anymore, even though they have done so in the past and "approved" certain pens. As you said, the issue is the remote risk of chemical contamination and damaging the rope in unexpected and invisible ways. I may simply mark mine with some sail repair thread (heavily coated nylon) wrapped and sewn in the middle (shallow through the sheath). drC

If I want to get one of these very expensive gadgets just to be able to set a rescue anchor in ice, what is a versatile length? I'm looking at the Petzl Laser Sonic and it comes in 10, 13 (short for all purpose?), 17 and 21 cm. (FOTH may recommend a size, I'll check, but it's not around.) TIA! drC

OK, I want to get my kids outside while it's still decent weather. They're 5 and 7 and have been climbing at Vertical World every week this year. I brought them to Marymoor rock, but all we can do there is boulder since I don't have another adult with me to set a toprope, and I can't lead yet anyway So I am looking for something where I could get my kids to have fun toproping (up to 5.6 or 5.7 I think), and where I can walk to the top, set the rope, and then go down and belay them. The pitch should be kids-friendly as in enough holds within the reach of their little span. Suggestions? Thanks in advance! drC

Ingraham flats was way more windy than Muir when I camped there last week-end. I second the recommendation anyway, because 1/ it's a great place to camp (beautiful and less crowded than Muir) and 2/ as fenderfour said it's closer to the summit, and that matters You'll carry your tent a bit more both ways, but it's worth it. Get there early, have a good sleep (we got 5 1/2 hours each) and go summit! drC

I have been looking at the Petzl Myo 5 and the Myobelt 5. I like the idea of the belt package to keep batteries close to my body, but the Myobelt 5's battery pack is made of C batteries. This brings the weight of the lamp and batteries to a whopping 16 ounces! And that's before one even considers bring spare batteries. I have also been thinking of running it with AA batteries (like the regular Myo 5) in battery upsizers such as those: http://www.cyberguys.com/templates/searchdetail.asp?T1=161+0385. I think that would work, except of course that I wouldn't get the same long time of light using those but that's fine. Another option would be to get the Myo 5, cut the power cable and reconnect using quick connectors, and then make a home belt pack holding C batteries (and keep the empty AA pack on the head when using it). Or is a belt-powered headlamp overkill for the area's climbs, where one will spend maybe 5 or 6 hours at night needing a lamp, and in most cases the LEDs will be enough? drC

I did post in Lost & Found. Brianna, thanks for the congrats. drC

A howling wind got my down jacket at the top of the cleaver and flew it towards those gigantic crevasses on Emmons. It's not likely that anybody would want to be there, but who knows where the jacket flew. Jacket is red with black shoulders. It's a North Face, 700 fill (700 is embroidered on the wrist), stows in its own pocket, size large. If you find it, please PM me. drC

Climb: Mt Rainier-DC Date of Climb: 8/29/2004 Trip Report: Second time was the charm Gardner, Chriss and myself climbed Rainier through the DC route and summited yesterday morning. We slept at Ingraham Flats, and went from there to the summit at a moderate pace (including being stuck between a really slow team who didn't acknowledge our requests to pass them) in 5 hours. Conditions were great, except for the wind which was blowing at a sustained 40 mph and more. That wind got my down jacket as I was changing clothes at the top of cleaver after a break. That down jacket is now in a crevasse on Emmons next to the cleaver Conditions on the route are great. RMI again does a great job of maintaining the route. The trickiest part of the trip was crossing the 70 ft deep moat when getting on the cleaver, but even then, RMI had fixed a rope to use as a handrail and it was really simple. RMI is working on changing the route to avoid that crossing, so someone who goes later is likely to see something different. The mountain received 3 feet of snow since I was there 2 weeks ago, and as a result the cleaver is now snow (except for a couple of short rock sections). The other bonus is that the two crevasses you have to cross above the cleaver have bomber bridges, highway-like. All in all, an uneventful trip and a couple days spent with good people on the mountain. Very nice. Gear Notes: Shoulda secured my down jacket so it couldn't fly out...

I'm interested in beta too. We have planned to go Sunday-Monday for our second attempt, but the weather forecast isn't great. Pretty cold, snow level at 10,500 with chance of showers. Not looking forward to my first whiteout... drC

Mine came with a damaged spine too I don't know what's happening with USPS here! I called Alpinist and they'll resend one (they also offered to extend my subscription by one issue and let me buy 8 in a store; maybe that would have been safer, and definitely faster). My damaged copy of 8, for someone who doesn't mind, is reserved to someone who will acoompany me on some easy rock summits (like the Tooth or Chair Peak or something like that) in the next month so I can get my Mountaineers Basic Climbing course equivalency. drC

I've printed on plain paper on a big laser printer at work and the resulting map results water extremely well. I don't think the printer uses sublimation (you can usually tell) but maybe the toner it uses is water resistant. I've put the maps in a sink full of water, no bleeding... But then, I still buy USGS quads and waterproof them by hand The printouts are mostly for overviews with a different scale (~ 69,000:1). drC

0.15 grams! Wow. I'll carry three of these anyday Seriously... I've seen it listed at 61 g which is great (the Mini is 80 g), and it's $10 less than the price of mine ($20 instead of $32). Not bad. Bigger sheave and bigger breaking load (not sure about working load). Not prusik minding but that's fine by most people. drC

What about a combo like the Omnifuel, which burns both kind of fuel? The one clear disadvantage I see in it is that when you're in canister mode it's a very heavy canister stove, though... And even for white gas it's a bit heavier than the MSR stoves. drC

I like the Mini myself: More weight obviously, but sealed bearings are a good thing to reduce friction. Looks like it will mind prusiks nicely, though I haven't tried that by itself (learned to use my belay device to mind the prusik instead). drC