Dr_Crash

Thanks for all the suggestions. I've found the best pair of crampons, which is a pair of borrowed crampons These should work for a while (semi-automatic Grivel) as their owner isn't going to climb for at least a year. I had them with me on Mt Adams yesterday but there really was no reason to use them, but I expect to work just fine. drC

Hi, I'm looking to join a party for a climb next week-end. Preferrably a single day, 7/25. Glacier or alpine / easy rock. I've got crevasse rescue training, and am in shape (slogged up Mt Hood and Adams the past 3 week-ends). I am safe and good company. drC

I did that route yesterday. It's fine. Pretty hot, long slog, nothing special to report except that the glissade tracks are really fast and fun Oh, and some of them have strategically placed butt-shredding rocks (sometimes not visible) but it only hurts for so long... About 2 miles of trail before reaching snow I'd say. And then, nothing to report for the next few thousand feet. drC

Did you cache your board and skis at Piker's peak, in the rocks? I saw some there. Didn't see you though. Or I didn't recognize you but you'd have recognized my accent, most likely drC

I have been asking Polar why their user manual includes a disclaimer about climbing with their watch: Here is Polar's answer: drC

Soft shell pants rock. I have a pair of REI One HD. The fit is not great, but then nothing from REI fits great (I am in between two sizes). But for the price I paid for them ($99) I'm very happy. They're warm (HD is the thicker cut of Polartec Powershield) but they have a full size zipper so ventilation's really easy. I love Powershield, great fabric, and one of the most water-resistant. But I don't know anybody unhappy with Schoeller Dryskin either. Carry an ultralight or light rain pant in your pack for when it's really wet or for glissading. I started glissading on the soft shell on Mt Hood, and got wet immediately. I then remembered I had that rain shell... drC

I'm making a trip down there with a couple friends. Driving from Seattle tomorrow afternoon, and then an alpine start, and to the top. If you see us, say hi (I have a black & blue BCA Alp 55 pack, and either long sleeved Patagonia capilene top or orange softshell). We'll likely be on South Spur since one of my friends has no glacier experience or training. If we're in shape after that long climb, we'll climb Mt St Helens on Sunday. drC

Bump. I am getting into road biking, and because of that the s720i (or the s725) looks good to me. It would give me something I could use biking, at the gym, or climbing and skiing, for less than the price of a Suunto plus a bike computer with wireless cadence. But I'd like to know how the altimeter fares? Did you get the Polar? Did you climb with the altimeter, and how good was it? The Polar manual says: I don't know if it's just protective legalese or if they have a reason to distrust their altimeter for serious use. drC

Don't know how people like it but REI Outlet has the Primus Omnifuel stove on clearance for $83 (used to be $130). It will work with both gas canisters and fuel bottles, all fuels, and of course is heavier than a canister-only stove but more flexible. drC

Hi, I just bought some mountaineering boots and need crampons for them. The boots have a steel 1/2 shank and a sole that is compatible with all kinds of crampons. I have no idea what to get. From what I've read it looks like some hinged crampons, semi-automatic or automatic, would be good. It looks to me like semi-automatic might be best because 1/ not all boots are compatible with a toe bail, and I have no idea what my next pair of boots will look like in a few years (cancel that argument if more and more boots get the toe thingy those days), and 2/ I've read about automatic crampons getting off on ice with shoes that are not hyper super stiff (even though my boots may not qualify for climbing water ice any time soon because of the 1/2 shank, I've read that about the Makalu for example). But again, I don't know a thing about crampons. I'd like something that works well for my current application (climbing the Cascade volcanoes and glaciated peaks) and hopefully will also be okay for more (water ice as encountered on alpine climbs) as I progress as a mountaineer. Thanks for your advice. As always, links to places where good gear is on sale are appreciated too. drC

I ended up with a pair of Millet Alti GTX (general moutaineering boots). They're not as light as the Trango S (they weigh 1.8 kg, ~ 4 pounds) but they're waterproof and durable (a store I went to said they stopped selling the Trango because of too many returns). They only have a 1/2 steel shank, like the Trango, which I hope is okay on the kind of slopes I'll encounter around here with crampons. I also considered the Makalu but got the cheaper Millet, though I now realize I have had Telemark Pyrenees ship the Makalus to my house in France for a price difference of just 8 Euros . I hope I won't regret that (the Makalu fit me a bit better because they had 1/2 sizes and their FR 42.5 was great for my narrow ankles; the Millet I have is a US 10 / FR 43.3 and I wear a US 8.5 / FR 42 in street shoes; my heel lifts a bit on a slope in the Millet---didn't try the Makalu on a slope). I can't wait to try the boots, maybe a short Tiger cable line hike on my way to work. drC

Missed the extra 20% off, I'm backing off Ropes come and go on sale all the time anyway...

People shouldn't be allowed to leave their trash on the mountain (any) unless it's a dedicate place where it will be picked up and moved to an appropriate place. Leave No Trace should apply everywhere. It would be nice if Everest climbers had to post a bond covering cleaning up, to be returned on proof that they came back with everything they hauled up. If not, the bond goes to cover cleanup, removal from site, and proper disposal. drC

I am looking for recommendations for mountaineering boots (besides the obvious that I need to try them and they need to fit). I'm looking for boots for 3-season mountaineering around the area mostly (I ski lift-served all the time in winter). What kind of shoes would be good for that? I do need and want to be able to slog in snow (glacier travel comes to mind) for example, and I want to be able to do a rock summit too. A friend told me "something like the La Sportiva Trango S because it's very lightweight" but it is not waterproof. Would that be an issue? I can also find boots that are water-proof in France (but indicated not for winter) for a similar price but they weigh 5 lbs. Any recommendations? Things to look for / be aware of? Pointers to Web sites with sales are good too (I am an 8 1/2 US). Thanks! drC

Good rope? I need a beginner rope for top-ropping at crags, and don't think that the non-dry is an issue on this one. Should I jump on the deal? Or is 10.5 mm too big by modern standards (I wsas told 10.2). What would you recommend for a rope bag? drC

I can confirm that the Mythos stretch. I went only one size down and they're already nice and comfy. I kind of wish I had the strength to endure the first few times in a 1 1/2 sizes down (no way for 2 1/2 like you Dryad, too scary ). I'll lace them up tight drC

Hi, I'm looking at buying an altimeter watch. I also want a HR monitor, and would like to avoid the "one watch per wrist" look. And I don't necessarily want to pay for features creep. With this in mind, I've been looking at the Suunto X3HR which has dead simple altimeter features (as in just show me the altitude and that's it) and no fancy weather functions. I don't care for a compass at all by the way (on the watch, that is). But I wonder which of the altimeter features you'd consider essential / great to have, and why; answers from people who've actually used them rather than lusted at them in a brochure and fantasized about their uses are better (though all answers are welcome, and I belong to the second category for a lot of things). Altitude alarm (nice in a whiteout)? Real-time vertical info? Whatever? drC

Good choice (I have a Barryvox myself but both are great, and the Tracker will give you a signal a bit sooner than a Barryvox used only in digital mode). The X1 is not a good choice from the info available on the Web. When it came out it seriously malfunctioned. It may be fixed now, but you can't tell which version of software a beacon is running. Now go get some friends and practice, and get some avalanche education if you haven't already (a level 1 class is good, and Bruce Tremper's book is a mine of info). The best case is that you won't use that beacon or that big-ass metal shovel of yours, and that can only happen through learning about the snowpack and avalanche danger. drC

Always a good idea to check the Avalanche center blog. And to contribute to it after your trips! Turn all years is a great source too. And competent friends are the best (and you learn from them). drC

Can't exaggerate a death (though I wouldn't be surprised) but sure can exaggerate the rumors of said death (as in Mark Twain's case). drC

Rodchester, we're saying the same thing. The lawyers uses more words and posted data for those who can't read on Beal's site. RuMR, I'm a bit confused by you. You tell me it's certified as a twin, I said no it's as a half (double) rope, then you lecture me that the Beal site says it's a double. Duh, yes. I'll just ignore the randomization in the rest of this thread. Whoever else, half rope and double rope: same thing. NOLSe, I'd love to see these numbers you asked for. I thought it'd be really tough to make a rope that works well as half (double) and twin, mostly because when both strands would be clipped in together, the impact forces would skyrocket, and then, well, have faith in your protection guys (where's the Eek! graemlin?) drC

OK, I must be dense. I still don't see any reference to the certification here (since the last sentence is yours, not Beal's). It is listed only as a half rope (double rope), *not* as a twin, by Beal. Again, read the first sentence... "Beal presents the very lightest DOUBLE ROPE." Not twin. They just say that it is as light and supple as a twin, not that it is a twin. But you may have information re: the certification that I can't see on that Web site. Are you one of these shop employees you're referring to? drC

Where does it says it's rated as a twin? It is a half rope, with "The lightness and free flow of a twin rope" (Beal's words) but the latter is just marketing, not an encouragement to use them as twins. drC

Leavenworth Mountain Sports has been advertising cheap shoes on this board. And REI has the Mythos for $89 instead of $120. drC

Fromt the top of my head, La Sportiva Mythos shoes $89 (reg. $120), some Mammut 10.5 Dry 60 m rope $159 (reg. $20x?), 20% off Camalots, some BD quickdraws, and other random stuff. drC