high_on_rock

Hell, I keep getting ripped off by good old home grown white trash. Unless you want to put of a fence between, well ..., I guess I live on the wrong side of the fence anyhow. Eric in Spokane

Buy a climbing harness and shoes, go out to Smith Rocks on any spring or fall weekend, and stand by the cinnamon slab for about a half hour and someone will invite you onto their rope and teach you to climb. You simply cannot live in Redmond and not learn how to climb. Otherwise PM me and I will take you and your family out to Smith and get you started next time I am down. Moved to Redmond, I am envious.

I have an old set of blue straight shafted Chouinards, are they what you are looking for?

I fully believe that if I die climbing it will be on a 5.5 rather than a hard route.

Nice article Kurt, the http://snowpit.com/articles/traps%20reprint.pdf link is a great discussion of the heuristic phenomenon and a good read.

When I started out, I might have felt comfortable climbing unroped on low 4th class rock. If I had fallen, I might have survived. Now that I am skilled, I feel comfortable climbing mid 5th class rock unroped, and that fall is going to hurt. In reality, I think that my learning has made me climb less safely as I still climb just a little above my comfort zone.

I am putting this in the Newbie list as it is a request for advice, and I don’t want it thrown out with the boxers/briefs poll in the Climbing forum. What solutions have people come up with to lessen "chaffing" when on long trips. Come on folks, withhold the urge to spray on this one (yes, spray may affect chaffing.) Any great advice folks?

YES!

heard the theory two days ago that when it comes to climbing, the more you learn does not make you safer, it merely raises the level of the risks you will take. When one climbs, s/he pushes their comfort zone by X amount, and the more you learn the higher that level is.

if we drive a guy away from seeking advice by telling him what an idiot he is, I think we have done a disservice. Merely my thought.

OUCH, leadership class this weekend, count me back out

someone educate me please, why won't these video clips play for me? Am I missing something? Help?

hey Blake, I will be down there with a group of great people from March 22 - about the 28th. We will be helping with the MtGear event, then staying to climb. If you need partners, I can supply some for you on a daily basis. Let me know when it gets closer, and I will tell you how to find us if you are interested. I highly recommend the Mgear event, completely enjoyed it last year. Eric

With the recent gear recovery highlighted above in the climbing section, I become curious as to the response of local law enforcement. I am over here in Spokane, and the criminal justice system is so overwhelmed that unless you are currently being killed, raped, or driving 34 in a 30 mph zone, you will not get police response for anything. Gear theft, car theft, or even identity theft; will not get any attention. My question is what is the situation in King county? If someone were to get the information on the Exit 38 thieves, would the sheriffs even do anything? I would be willing to sit in the woods with a bait-car for a couple days with a camera, if it would do any good. So I ask this question in all seriousness: What is the current state of response in King County to theft crimes? Serious responses only please, this is not spray. Eric

Too bad there is not a database that we could keep where we log what was stolen, and whenever we get a great yardsale deal, we can check the database. Thoughts? By the way, honor points for the honesty!!

Is there anything that any of us can do to get you back involved? Get you in on the planning of trips, drag your ass up to the rock and let you watch, belay, or act as an anchor or whatever you can do? Take turns putting you on our backs and packing you up a mountain? Let me know if I can help get you back out in whatever way possible.

The way I read it (1) applies to everyone, (2) applies only to groups with children.

Watching the Pitz Palu movie tonight from netflix. Wow, great stuff. Makes one feel like a real pansy using goretex, flashlights, and frontpoints. Cool movie. Does swinging a lantern suffice for an electronic signaling device?

SECTION 1. ORS 401.625 is amended to read: 401.625. { + (1) A person who engages in mountain climbing during the months of November, December, January, February and March shall use an electronic signaling device when climbing a mountain at a point above the timberline. I am bored, here are some Questions: 1 What is the definition of "mountain Climbing"? Does hiking count? Only if you intend to summit? Would going to Muir count as mountain climbing, or sightseeing? Going to Illumination Ridge count? What about hiking up the ski runs at Hood? 2 What does the language “shall use” mean? If you carry a device but do not use it, are you in violation? 3 Many have already asked what would constitute an electronic signaling device; but what about a lighted (electronic) Mirror (signaling device)? A battery operated whistle? Hand held two-mile radios? My Capt’n Crunch battery powered decoder spy ring? 4 Who has the burden of proof, do you have to prove you have one, or do they have to prove you don’t? Short of finding my dead body and searching it, they are going to have no way of proving I don’t have one, but I guess they could prove you don’t “use” one.

Or you can look at the practical side of this law. Short of me admitting that I don't have one, how are they going to prove that I don't have one with me? Are they going to overrule the fed constitution and allow park officials to search me at will? Ranger asks if you have one, you just smile and don't answer. Prove I don't.

I paint the heck out of it once per year, never have much problem with gunking. some rubs off, but some stays. E

Don't make the argument that there are no psycho women. They may not physically overpower me, but they sure can use the system to do so. Getting back to the original concept here, I think the guy's photos were somewhat tasteful. If the guy has a photo in his head that he wants to put on film, then asking for and paying a model for a specific shot, outfit, and look seems like a perfectly acceptable way of getting help for his art. Let's not start convicting perverts because sommeones advertisement set off some girls Creep sense.

Mt. Goat Outfitters in Spokane will rent you one for somethign like $50 per day. Call a day ahead and ask him to charge it.

The photos all seem to be in good taste to me. Pretty quick with the "pervert" label. E

This was taught also at a top rope manager certification course I took. Makes great sense to me. It does provide more friction for the belayer, the ropes are not rubbing across one spot in the rope, the ropes are rubbing in a constantly moving place and therefore will not burn through. I have used it often since learning the trick, and it has worked well. If you want to know how much extra friction it adds, put a few wraps in the rope next time you try pulling your rope. I use it outdoors and it works beautifully. I vote "yes."