high_on_rock

I hear ya CBS, but based upon my pattern it will be another 30 years before I update again. So I need something to take me into about year 2036, so I wanted to put some research into the decision.

It would be my impression that what we saw was anger not racism. I think we saw a guy verbally punching at the members of the audience with the hardest verbal fist he knew. If you go nuts and punch some guy who deserves it, that doesn't make you a violent person. We all have our braking point, and he obviously hit his. To my knowledge there is no pattern of this behavior, it was just that he snapped. I am not a racist, but I also know the right names to inflict the worst pain on minorities. If I knew of words that would be that powerful when used against white people, I might someday use those in anger. Unless there is a pattern of the behavior, I think one needs to give him the benefit of the doubt. Just my thought.

Perhaps this should be in the newbee section, but I am looking for advice as to which ice tools to buy. I dabble at Ice, climbing maybe twice a year, but would like to hit the ice a little more this year. I am a cheap bastard, and have for years been playing with some antique Chouinards, but am tempted to spend some money this year. What would be a great, “affordable”, low maintenance pair of ice tools for a moderate climbing old fat guy? Or should I stick with my antiques?

Just store it in a coolish place out of the sunlight, away from chemicals and it will be fine. I have a perfect place if you would like me to store it for you. E

If they have not sold yet, let me know and I will stick a check in the mail (paypal?) E

I will be down there from about thursday through sometime in the next week. I have a partner, but you can always join us. Look for a red miata with a black top at the campground, or let me know if you are interested and I will PM you my cell number. E

I have no problem with price, any idea what shipping would be to spokane? E

are these still for sale? Do I assume that you are in Seattle?

Here is a dirtbag thought, what about chunks of sheetrock? What is the significant difference between chalk and sheetrock dust? Any experts out there? E

A few years ago I was jobless and homeless, and spent the entire winter at RedRocks drawing unemployment ("on the state's climbing team"). Best winter/spring of my life. E

It is suggested that you shoulc only simul rap if both weigh about the same, which really does not matter. I often Simul rap with people near half my weight with no problem. Another trick is to put the knot on the lighter persons side of the anchor (or butterfly and biner around heavier persons rope) if you are worried that the friction is insufficient. I also always put the larger diameter rope through the rap anchors, which puts my fatter body on the thicker rope. I agree with the concept of leapfrogging and simulrapping as being darn fast and efficient, but take care of the beginners. E

I am still not getting it. If the knot was in a non-moving position then I believe you would be right. Since the knot is also moving along with the runners, is there any sawing? E

I don't get it yet. If the two are joined they will move as one, there should be no "sawing." What am I missing? E

What do I know. I learned through a club about ten years ago, then learned even more helping teach some of the basic skills the following couple years. I have since been out on my own for many years and do very little the same way that I learned from them, but it was still a great course to keep me alive while I learned better skills and adapted my own style and preferences. I spend a lot of time out climbing and always watch to see what others are doing. I often believe that I can tell the club climbers from the non-club just by watching their styles. I would say that the worst habits I have seen out at the crags are from people who were obviously not club trained. The only two real “assholes” I have encountered in the hills have both been guides with their clients. I have encountered numerous club people who seem to believe that there is only one right way to do things, but I understand that is merely a product of trying to teach a basic set of skills to a large group of people; and tolerate their limited vision of the many safe possibilities. Most of the club people are great people, with a jerk sprinkled in occasionally. Most non-club people are great people, with a jerk sprinkled in occasionally Seems like peace, tolerance, and brotherhood would get us a long way in the world.

I am scheduled to be in Red Rocks with a few people if you need some folks to climb with E

Guys, if you have any updated information on this I would love to hear it. Was this a booty biner, thus supporting the argument to never trust gear that someone else left behind? Was this a biner in which he knew the history making it a pure failure? E

I recently found a shade of brown that is doing a great job of covering (don't have it with me to tell you what shade). I will be back out there in a few weeks and cover what is left. E

Though I have never felt good about adding to the paint, I hereby confess that I have for four years been painting much of the brown paint over some of the graffiti at the feathers. I started by taking out the “mr mojo” insignia after an OzFest about 4-5 years ago, and I have continued to monitor and paint over much of the graffiti since. I feel bad about adding to the paint, but know that if the graffiti is not covered or removed, it will encourage more. The tremendous amount of graffiti added this year is hard to cover with the brown, and I ran out of paint. Know that if anyone wants to put together a clean-up and needs help, I can probably supply numerous laborers. Eric

I have gone to Smith numerous times alone, and typically within an hour at the rock I find climbing partners for the day or weekend (groups of women most of the time). If you cannot find a partner here, my advice is to just show up and see how you do.

Ok OLY, I am heading to Wenatchee for business Friday and Saturday and cannot bring the kids. Rather than show up for a kid event without kids, I will bail and wish you the best. If however you are in need of gear or belayers for the kids, let me know and I will show up sat night and help out. Good luck man, I know my kids would have enjoyed the heck out of the weekend. E

Wow, I grew up in Darrington and left 20+ years ago. Never really knew of the rock climbing being developed up there. These photos are beautiful! Is there a good guidebook for the area that folks recommend? I assume that the 10 month rainy season is about to start, but I have no doubt that I will be heading up there next summer to investigate. Anyone want to trade services; you show me the area and I will deal with the hillbillys? (I think I still talk redneck) Any advice as to which route/wall to start on to get a sense of the local rock? The above photos psych me up.

Two ropes. The first and second climb as though they are alone, the second trails the extra rope. Upon reaching the top of a pitch, the second anchors rope #2, and the third climber does a top-rope solo while the other two climbers start the next pitch. To rap quickly, run the ropes through the anchor and back it up with a knot. Two rap at once on single strands, when both are off rappel, pull the back up knot and the third person raps. Quick, easy, and efficient.

I have a boy 6 and a girl 8; but cannot confirm my availability yet. If space is tight count me out, if you have a large open space I might try to beg my way in at the end. Do you guys allow Spokane folk? Eric

Cool, that would be pure booty! We did not leave anything. Is there a "guide book" of some sort out for Mclellan? Eric

I have taken a WFA from Remote Medical, and found Andrew to be a great person and good teacher. I was impressed with everything I saw from Remote Medical. I have also been through the full 10 day WFR course with WMI twice, and was fully satisfied. I have 11 years of college with probably 100 teachers, and the best teacher I have ever had in all the years was Big Dan Walker of Bend Oregon who teaches WFR’s for WMI. If you can get a course with Dan Walker, jump on it! The best teacher I have ever had the pleasure of experiencing. Eric Teacher