badvoodoo

Looks like Nick Cage in one of his more unfortunate roles to me.

Ad-aware. Get it, use it, love it.

I know of some really nasty adware/spyware related to it. Defining it as a virus is borderline, but it's aggravating shit.

Just stop and ask yourself, How Would Jesus Drive? Then flip them off.

#4 is a killer shot! I'd love to get out there someday.

Beauty trip, man! I must applaud your ability to not only get out of the house, but skin up middle sister after that night! You're a better man than I.

Heh, oh ya, the chez crawford spa is definitely good for what ails you!

Well, small wonder I've been going to Bend/Redmond area the past 3 weekends. Good times and good weather all around. Headed out Friday night, Muffy and myself in one car and addie and her dog Rosie in another, tunes blaring and roads surprisingly crowded for 11 at night. Well, sure enough, seems this weekend Smith was the place to be (probably because the weather sucked everywhere else from Canada on down), and nary an open spot was to be found at the Grasslands. So, we found ourself a spot in the overflow area, abortively tried to start a fire, and finally called it a night. After probably the most comfortable night I've ever spend at the Grasslands, we grabbed some coffee and headed out for the main area at Smith. Last trip I'd had every intent to get in a lead on Hop On Pop (5.8) on the Peanut, but never got to it, so that was my first order of business. Unfortunately, a couple of almost freakishly polite Canadians were on it when we got there, but they were very helpful and pointed us to Peanut Brittle, another 5.8 right next to them. So the three of us jumped on it, while the Looney Tunes chipmunk pair pleased, thank-you'd, and be-so-kinded their way around us. Next order of business was Ancylostoma, a nice 5.9, then we decided to give Catherine Finds An Edge a try over by Asterix Pass. Well, the wind had been pretty hefty at the Grasslands, and while the Smith Rock Group shielded us from it at the main area, it was whipping over Asterix Pass and scouring the intended route, so I just scrambled up for a picture and came back down. After some pondering we decided on heading for Helium Woman (5.9), which was thankfully open. This was a fun route, but with a slightly misleading start if you followed the chalk (yes, I'm a n00b), and a bit of a dicey crux, which I just managed to friction my way over. The group next to us was just coming off of Captain Xenolith (5.10a) when we finished, and invited us to jump on. Now, at this point I only had a grand total of 4 leads total under my belt, 3 of which were from this morning, and 5.10a is nearly at my climbing limit, so I was a bit apprehensive about going after this. But, it was well-protected and I figured the attempt would be worth a bail biner as a last resort, so I went for it. Well, I did come off once, but otherwise made it up the mean little crimpfest and got to bask in the glory of leading a 10a for my 5th-ever lead. Talk about satisfaction! At that point, the clouds were moving in, and it seemed a good idea to end on a good note, so after a couple more snake encounters addie almost stepping on a rattler on rappel and Rosie obliviously walking over another sunning itself on the path) we packed it out. addie had to head back home, so Muffy and I made a quick trip for a rope tarp and opted to head to Bend for dinner. Note for anyone looking for excellent, cheap eats in Bend: Soba Noodles on Bond right downtown has great food for $5-6. Shel had never been into Bend proper, so we took some time to explore, then after a couple phone calls met up with Timmy and Becky at Cascade Lakes Brewery, and were soon joined by Cletus and John. Two more bars, many stories and jokes, and a soak in Tim and Becky's hottub later, we crashed for the night in the Pooh Room. The next morning was not quite so happy, as my system thoroughly objected (rightfully so) to the Red Bull, Malibu, and Jaeger shot that finished the night before. After stumbling around a bit and voiding my stomache of the offending remains of the night, I decided retreat was the better face of valour and passed out again until noon. By this point home seemed like a good idea, so Muffy and I settled in for the drive back to laundry, movies, and stir fry with peanut sauce. My misson for the weekend to lead whatever I could was completed beyond any of my expectations, and the unexpected Bend Pub Club was a thorough success, regardless of the consequences. And not to mention that I had a couple bona fide bettys for climbing partners! More pics of the weekend.

GHA! This kind of shit makes me inarticulate. Hope something comes up, or that the GF's insurance will at least cover it. Fuckers.

Among all the other things wrong with that picture is the fact that the guy has a camel toe.

Call me crazy, but wouldn't the fact that they already HAVE $100 million mean they're ALREADY doing well?

Given that the forecast has done a 180, I'm headed there Fri. for the weekend. Though I'm not familiar with the gorge and I'll not be leading anything more than a 5.9 even with a perfectly healthy shoulder, so "tag along" at risk of your sanity. But, you feel like hanging with me and a couple chicas, you'll be in good company, as one of them is recovering from a broken ankle.

She looks like she's channelling Tammy Faye Bakker.

I'll admit it, I'm on a Metallica kick lately. Yes, they're assholes, but dammit, they make good music.

Wait, Cobra has infiltrated our healthcare system? Guess that would explain "preferred healthcare providers". Cobra Commander's evil knows no bounds!

That actually poses an interesting point. Should I be focusing on leading trad before even jumping up sport multi-pitch? I know I've heard many people reference placing gear even on bolted multi-pitch anchors... I'm sure there's plenty of room for the "just fuckin do it!" approach between the two, but if you had to choose, would you prefer to have your trad down for backing up on sketchy bolts/ledges, or just start on sport routes to get in the practice?

Yes, but trask was non-partisan when it came to being an asshole, so I wouldn't count him.

Are you coming on to me, cracked?

Sweet, thanks for all the recommendations everyone.

Just have to give props to a guy who can get everyone talking about a randy johnson.

Any recommendations for a book for someone looking to start doing multipitch routes? Specifically belay anchor setup and leader belay technique?

"Now watch men, if I just wedge the rope between my asscheeks like so, it leaves both hands free to remove the badger attacking my head."

...and dress up like dish scrubber wands.

You make it sound SCARY! Or like he's Dr. Evil. With frickin lazer beams!