John Frieh

Weekend actually has to climb on a regular basis before he can stop climbing Then again since WA state now recognizes "life partners" he and Beckey can finally constitute their "partnership"

Erik Even if this warm weather continues SGC generally stays in until the 1st or 2nd week of June... what usually happens is the schrud generally gets too large to bypass before the route actually melts out (though it might be an option to access the couloir from the rock on either side if the schrund is too big). If you do go in and this warm weather continues just make it a point to start extra extra early to make sure you are in/climbing the couloir well before first light. The upper snowfield catches morning sun and quickly turns into a post hole session in the sun. Check and see what time the sun rises before you go and adjust you start time to ensure you are well up the couloir before the sun rises. Generally first light is an hour before the listed sunrise time. Finding the couloir even in the dark is easy to do so basically there is no such thing as "too early" for SGC. Hope this helps. Shoot me a pm if you have any other beta questions.

I don't live in Seattle NTM who lives in SEA asked for cyclocross reqs and I made one for him

mountain cycle stumptown if you turn it into a fixe or put cards in the spokes I will personally drive to SEA and hit you with my car and take it from you

Bill Coe! Good work guys!

Nice TR girl! Team Harro sucka! Stumptown!

My garage has become quite the argument for the bachelor life

Is that all you got?

Email

Chad I have a Wild Things bivy and an OR bivy... you can borrow either one and try them out. Get me a shout...

Jim has 49 or 50 (he is unsure on the exact number). Good work Craig! What mountain(s) are you obsessed with right now?

date night! :moondance:

For nw face? I think this was attempt # 4 though on one of those attempts Ivan and I opted for SGC. How many routes are you up to dude? Just be glad you didn't have to share a sleeping bag with me like some people we know :laf:

Speaking for myself any time spent outside (climbing, hiking, skiing, etc etc) is time well spent. The north side of stuart has some great stuff with great access practically year round. Then again so does most of the nw Basically... why not?

Did you see whose photo was selected for the newsletter?

Nice TR d00d!

Hard to say... we found a good 2 body lengths of <1" ice that was delamed but the rock pro is great and one can drytool through anything that is unclimbable IMO. I believe Craig climbed it last year with little to no ice on it so I suspect one can climb the route regardless of the condition of the first pitch... who knows...

Trip: Stuart - NW face Date: 5/12/2007 Abstract: Dave Burdick (Alpinedave), Daniel and Elisif Harro (Team Harro) and I approach Stuart Friday 11th. On Saturday Dave and I climbed the NW face and Team Harro climbed SGC. This TR will cover the nw face and team harro will write something up for SGC. Dialogue: Prior obligations (ski patrol prom ) + short weekends the past 2 running had me craving some alpine loving. Dave had Fri/Sat to work with as did Team Harro so alpine it was. Elisif finished work at 7 am on Friday... same time I was done at the lab so we pointed it east around 8. Meet Dave at 1:45 in leavenworth and were on the trail by 2:30. 4 hours in... we punched in here and there but not so much we wished we had slow shoes. The approach felt especially great for me after a solid session at the lab earlier that morning Camped at the last available water and got underway at 3:30 the next morning. Both team started their route at 6 am. nw face on left sgc on right: Dave called dibs on p1 on Friday so he was up first. He proceeded to walk it and brought me up after ~40 meters. Dave on pitch 1 (photo by Team Harro): That gave me pitch 2 which checked in at ~75 m (we brought a single 70 but had to simul a bit to find an anchor). Dave following 2: Pitch 2 put us right at where one enters the couloir/weakness/route line... Dave blasted ahead for simul block 1... we simuled for awhile... 5 pitches? Who knows... Dave leading simul block 1: day # 15 of ice for me this winter Following a morning constitutional pit stop I took simul block 2 to the summit. As far as I can tell we took the standard north ridge gendarme bypass route but could be wrong... the last time I did that was 2003 and it wasn't snow covered then so who knows. Basically we popped out on the summit ridge ~100' east of the summit. Dave following simul block 2: Dave from the summit ridge: Dave and I were on the summit at 10:04... 4 hours/4 leader changes base to summit Team Harro joined us shortly there after. Dave and I both snapped a ton of photos of Team Harro from the summit which will appear in their TR. I will post this one to build some stoke for their TR Team Harro sucka! Epilogue/more random beta: - Team Harro's first Stuart summit Stuart summit # 9 for me Hoping for double digits this summer - I heart climbing with awesome people. You should honestly consider bribing Dave or Team Harro to go climbing... beer, coffee, gas money, whatever... trust me it will be worth it. Cheers to great partners who are willing to put up with stinky peeps like me - we bumped into Ade as we were leaving Sat... he might have more up to date info for Stuie - ice cliff is sporting ~3' cornice right now - sherpa looks normal for this time of the year - Jason's Esophagus on Argonaut looked in and good - Dave: any pics to add? Gear Notes: if you read all the other TRs for the nw face you will see quite the variety of racks... I would say be prepared for anything and bring it all. We took (Dave is this right?): - 2 pickets (used 1 once or twice... likely could have left them both... other TRs found pickets highly useful so basically conditions vary so be prepared) - blue - red metolius - .75 - 3 camalot - 4 pins - 4 screws (1x10 cm, 3x13 cm) blue, yellow and orange metolius were used the most Approach Notes: Mtneers Creek Gate is open. Installed boot pack. We opted for leaving the slow shoes and didn't regret it. If you have ever wondered where to turn off from the stuart lake trail for mtneers creek use the two tree stumps pictured for future reference:

Just get an super over sized bra and stuff everything in there. Viola!

give me a day or two

Alpine Dave and I climbed the nw face and Team Harro did SGC

Ingalls Peak Saturday 5/12/07 from Stuart:

cargo pants + leather fanny pack + carpenter's apron = 2000 cubics easy I still think a wheelbarrow would be rad

newborn sling

leather fanny pack