John Frieh

Bill Coe! Good work guys!

Nice TR girl! Team Harro sucka! Stumptown!

My garage has become quite the argument for the bachelor life

Is that all you got?

Email

Chad I have a Wild Things bivy and an OR bivy... you can borrow either one and try them out. Get me a shout...

Jim has 49 or 50 (he is unsure on the exact number). Good work Craig! What mountain(s) are you obsessed with right now?

date night! :moondance:

For nw face? I think this was attempt # 4 though on one of those attempts Ivan and I opted for SGC. How many routes are you up to dude? Just be glad you didn't have to share a sleeping bag with me like some people we know :laf:

Speaking for myself any time spent outside (climbing, hiking, skiing, etc etc) is time well spent. The north side of stuart has some great stuff with great access practically year round. Then again so does most of the nw Basically... why not?

Did you see whose photo was selected for the newsletter?

Nice TR d00d!

Hard to say... we found a good 2 body lengths of <1" ice that was delamed but the rock pro is great and one can drytool through anything that is unclimbable IMO. I believe Craig climbed it last year with little to no ice on it so I suspect one can climb the route regardless of the condition of the first pitch... who knows...

Trip: Stuart - NW face Date: 5/12/2007 Abstract: Dave Burdick (Alpinedave), Daniel and Elisif Harro (Team Harro) and I approach Stuart Friday 11th. On Saturday Dave and I climbed the NW face and Team Harro climbed SGC. This TR will cover the nw face and team harro will write something up for SGC. Dialogue: Prior obligations (ski patrol prom ) + short weekends the past 2 running had me craving some alpine loving. Dave had Fri/Sat to work with as did Team Harro so alpine it was. Elisif finished work at 7 am on Friday... same time I was done at the lab so we pointed it east around 8. Meet Dave at 1:45 in leavenworth and were on the trail by 2:30. 4 hours in... we punched in here and there but not so much we wished we had slow shoes. The approach felt especially great for me after a solid session at the lab earlier that morning Camped at the last available water and got underway at 3:30 the next morning. Both team started their route at 6 am. nw face on left sgc on right: Dave called dibs on p1 on Friday so he was up first. He proceeded to walk it and brought me up after ~40 meters. Dave on pitch 1 (photo by Team Harro): That gave me pitch 2 which checked in at ~75 m (we brought a single 70 but had to simul a bit to find an anchor). Dave following 2: Pitch 2 put us right at where one enters the couloir/weakness/route line... Dave blasted ahead for simul block 1... we simuled for awhile... 5 pitches? Who knows... Dave leading simul block 1: day # 15 of ice for me this winter Following a morning constitutional pit stop I took simul block 2 to the summit. As far as I can tell we took the standard north ridge gendarme bypass route but could be wrong... the last time I did that was 2003 and it wasn't snow covered then so who knows. Basically we popped out on the summit ridge ~100' east of the summit. Dave following simul block 2: Dave from the summit ridge: Dave and I were on the summit at 10:04... 4 hours/4 leader changes base to summit Team Harro joined us shortly there after. Dave and I both snapped a ton of photos of Team Harro from the summit which will appear in their TR. I will post this one to build some stoke for their TR Team Harro sucka! Epilogue/more random beta: - Team Harro's first Stuart summit Stuart summit # 9 for me Hoping for double digits this summer - I heart climbing with awesome people. You should honestly consider bribing Dave or Team Harro to go climbing... beer, coffee, gas money, whatever... trust me it will be worth it. Cheers to great partners who are willing to put up with stinky peeps like me - we bumped into Ade as we were leaving Sat... he might have more up to date info for Stuie - ice cliff is sporting ~3' cornice right now - sherpa looks normal for this time of the year - Jason's Esophagus on Argonaut looked in and good - Dave: any pics to add? Gear Notes: if you read all the other TRs for the nw face you will see quite the variety of racks... I would say be prepared for anything and bring it all. We took (Dave is this right?): - 2 pickets (used 1 once or twice... likely could have left them both... other TRs found pickets highly useful so basically conditions vary so be prepared) - blue - red metolius - .75 - 3 camalot - 4 pins - 4 screws (1x10 cm, 3x13 cm) blue, yellow and orange metolius were used the most Approach Notes: Mtneers Creek Gate is open. Installed boot pack. We opted for leaving the slow shoes and didn't regret it. If you have ever wondered where to turn off from the stuart lake trail for mtneers creek use the two tree stumps pictured for future reference:

Just get an super over sized bra and stuff everything in there. Viola!

give me a day or two

Alpine Dave and I climbed the nw face and Team Harro did SGC

Ingalls Peak Saturday 5/12/07 from Stuart:

cargo pants + leather fanny pack + carpenter's apron = 2000 cubics easy I still think a wheelbarrow would be rad

newborn sling

leather fanny pack

wheelbarrow

a) ride to work b) work to ride c) work your ass off d) ride your ass off e) ride to work your ass off f) work to ride your ass off g) all of the above h) none of the above i) fill in the blank __________

The new cobra will weigh less than the current quark. Ice tools explained: A great way to predict how well an ice tool will match one's natural swing dynamic is the pick angle. The greater the pick angle the better a particular tool will hook edges (i.e. dry tool) especially in overhanging terrain but as the angle increases the tool will depart from ones natural swing dynamic. This will result in people sitting around bitching about it on the internet and/or they must learn how to modify their swing dynamic. The less/lower the pick angle the better the tool will match one's natural swing dynamic but will result in it being more difficult to hook (i.e. drytool) edges especially as in overhanging terrain. A great example of pick angle is the quark has a ~29.5 degree pick angle, the nomic has a ~31 degree where as the BD fusion has a ~32 degree pick angle. The fusion is the best mixed tool; the quark is a great pure ice tool and the nomic can do each fairly well but isn't the best at either one. Starting to make sense? And since you are wondering the new cobra will check in around 30.5 degrees pick angle. And keep in mind: when someone says "that tool's swing sucks" what they are really saying is "I haven't climbed enough ice to know how to modify my swing to get it to climb better". Go back and look what tools Lowe used on the first ascent of bridal veil Falls (CO) and then reconsider bitching about how a tool swings. Make due with what you got. Spray less. Climb more.