John Frieh
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[TR] Stuart - complete north ridge 7/6/2007
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Alpine Lakes
Yes and no... Yes that was on route if you were doing the eastern variation of the CNR. No if you were doing something else. Keep in mind a few options exist through the initial pitches. As stout as it is I would still recommend this option. Many people do consider it the route's crux. If you reread Kearney's death crack description he considers it death because the crack runs out where as this one doesn't. Make sense? Haul your packs? How much were you carrying? -
[TR] Stuart - complete north ridge 7/6/2007
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Alpine Lakes
Yeah... I bet Chaps would be super jealous No... not at all. Sorry if I made it sound like it was. Sometimes when I get out I like to set goals... push myself a little... that's all... -
[TR] Stuart - complete north ridge 7/6/2007
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Alpine Lakes
Yes... finding the cairns near Ingalls lake can be tricky at night. We didn't but we were at the toe of the north ridge about ~10 mins before sunrise so we were fairly low at that point of the morning. -
Trip: Stuart - complete north ridge Date: 7/6/2007 Relevant beta: - Route is fairly snow free though some snow patches still exist at lower ridge bivy sites, at the notch, and upper pitches for the purposes of melting. - Gendarme bypass still holding lots of snow... looks like fun times on wet slabs. - Lots of running water in the cascadian couloir. Snow relatively near summit but didn't see a puddle. - We left Ingalls lake with 3 liters each... this was enought to get us up and over before running out and getting more water on the descent - handlebar mustaches: oh so pimpin - my 10th stuart summit Time: Left car @ 12:05 am Started climbing @ 5:05 am Summit @ 11:15 am Car @ 4:45 pm We were staying on track for a 14 hour c2c but we took our sweet time on the descent as Brock's knees were hurting. Would have been stoked to do it in 14 but really who cares? Just a fine time in the hills... Handlerbar Mustache... the future? Ready... Set... Go! gendarme pitch 1 closing in stache on top! Gear Notes: black dress socks mustache comb Your mileage may vary: - red, yellow c3 - .4-4 c4 (doubles in red) - 5-13 stoppers - 12 runners (10x24", 2x48") No crampons, ice ax. Bug spray highly recommended.
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did you buy a new rope? how early?
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Good to see the multiple trips/years in the ruth gorge, CAN rockies in the winter, and FWAs in the cascades allowed you guys to finally succeed on... ... the west butt. I can imagine the doubt and trepidation you two had before going for it Seriously though... nice work boys! Year is only half over and you be killing!
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[swoon]Especially when they climb ice... [/swoon] 8D Nice work girls!
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Trip: Chipmunk Perch - 4 Horsemen/East Ridge Date: 7/1/2007 I followed the white rabbit down the hole... ...and came out somewhere in Idaho: I've been here before... ...but has anyone been here before? The 4 horsemen/east ridge of chipmunk perch... I wonder where they got the name? good morning sunshine go marcus go 4 Horsemen details: 15 pitches IV 5.9 (mostly 5.fun). 20 minutes from camp (or 2 hours from the boat dock). Walk off descent. It's going to be a great summer: homework! find a partner baa find a 3-4 day weekend get a hold of me carpool carpool carpool I'll show you the approach, where the routes are, split gas with you... maybe even make you coffee... all you have to do is motivate! Gear Notes: standard rack to #4 c4 camalot bug spray Approach Notes: saddleback lakes
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TR Index does not search/record/etc TRs from new forums (Idaho, Montana, California, etc etc). Might be wise to build that in while these new forums are still in their infancy and not a lot of back digging would be required. Regardless of features TR index is extremely valuable cc resource... thanks for maintaining it!
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Good tools for Vertical and Alpine ice
John Frieh replied to LuckyMike's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
yes. you can place a preorder with bd now what are the changes coming next year? See "new tools" thread by nyc007 in gear critic for additional discussion. New ice screw design also -
DUDE, THE ROJ WAS TOTALLY A CAP'N. AND HE WAS TOTALLY ON DEADLIEST CATCH. WHAT KINDA BAIT IS ROJ DRIVIN' THESE DAYS? Don't you just hate it when you forget to log out of your "regular" avatar and log back in as one of your alter avatars before spraying?
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Sjong slideshow rescheduled - June 27th
John Frieh replied to featheredfriends's topic in Events Forum
7:30 slide show starts? More importantly what time is the keg going to be tapped? -
My mum didn't have any girls to pass the hutch to when she inherited her mum's hutch and I could tell she would feel better if someone in the fam kept it (not to suggest it is this fine piece of furniture or anything) so I offered to take it... I couldn't stand the idea of fine china on display in my house so this is what I came up with... she laughs and shakes her head every time she sees it PS: If anyone else has some older gear just sitting around taking up space in the garage and wouldn't mind parting with it give me a shout!
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Sjong slideshow rescheduled - June 27th
John Frieh replied to featheredfriends's topic in Events Forum
What time? Prefunk? -
but now it has a good home where it will be loved
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Good tools for Vertical and Alpine ice
John Frieh replied to LuckyMike's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
New BD cobra -
I'll take everything else Email sent
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Add to summer reading list: Cadillac Desert Little old but great read
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Dude... you and I_like_sun need to find a better place to try and meet girls
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Independent of the fact that a lot of people free solo it is the fact that ample amounts of natural rock protection placements exist. If options for natural protection exist on a climb then bolts are unneeded.
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Reports in previous TRs mentioned the addition of 2 bolts sometime in the past 2 years or so. I wanted to see if anyone had removed them yet. No need to debate it. No need to spray about it. Just looking for a yes or no.
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Nice Road is plowed in winter. A few TRs in the TR Index have good pics of winter conditions. Great winter climb. Did you see any bolts on the summit pinnacle?