John Frieh

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Great pics Sol and Fender4 Did anybody get a good look (or better a pic) of how snow free the ice cliff arete (the ridge climbers left of the ice cliff glacier/ice fall)?

Nice job sniffing out that approach! Good you guys got away unscathed! Great TR!

Great pics guys That third pitch on the north side of the west ridge is rad huh

I hear you Bill! That is were a solid, educated trainer/coach comes into play. All of those workouts if done incorrectly can flatten even the fittest among us... having a trainer to ensure you are doing things correctly is key. More importantly: communicating to your trainer issues/ailments you have had in the past as well as other forms of training you are doing (gym sessions, running, skiing, etc) will allow them to modify the workouts to ensure you arent going to reinjury yourself or overuse certain muscles. Great example would be Shannon broker her ankle this year... my coach was able to modify the workouts so she could continue to workout and continues to modify them as she has slowly restrengthened that leg. What most people commonly think is when you start this type of training they just throw you to the wolves and start you on RX level workouts... most people do scaled down workouts for the first three months before scaling up. And I hear you on the time thing. We're all busy

AYCE: this thread has a good topo of what Tom/Tennessee described. I would recommend it: thread Assuming you take the slow boat to Stehikin a good time table is ride the bus as high as you can (or bum a ride) and hike to 8 mile campground (goes quick/easy trail) and camp. Second day cross the river and schwack up to the onto the glacier. Takes ~1/2 day if you are smart about picking a clean line up through the brush. You could summit Dome the second day fairly easily or camp below some of the prominent faces that only have one route on them. Hope this helps!

Alpinist: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08x/wfeature-mountain-athlete-training

How far you willing to drive? I dont know about everyone else but I personally have never really found much correlation with serac/glacial ice climbing and water ice beyond they both require tools and pons. Cooke City (Montana) got enough snow this winter that they should have water ice routes in around end of August... some of the stuff on the parkways might be forming up depending on if it is getting below freezing @ night or not but those are more routes than places to top rope/work out your swing.

Chance to get in on the ground floor. This seminar will likely cost 2x next year. Shoot me a PM for details/etc

Hotel reqs for Jackson Hole? BnB? Etc? End of this month so is there a particular spot one can haggle prices as resort season comes to an end? Or: local campgrounds (must be close though) that have showers? TIA

Dont worry Kevbone: its common for boys to mistakenly describe "things" are "huge" (and will even advertise as such) when in all actuality they aren't. When in doubt: ask a woman... they seem to be much better at quantifying things

"Modern" north cascades???

Thanks everyone I heard MT got more snow today... people should seriously consider going and climbing California Ice... one of the best alpine ice routes I have ever climbed! Climbers right of Bon Homme (Horning Variation): I dont know if you are allowed to climb it though... I suspect not.

Moutain Athlete is hold a two day seminar June 27th and 28th in Jackson, WY. Seminar schedule and additional information can be found here: seminar schedule Cost is 500/person however if you are interested in getting in on a group discount rate send me a pm or email.

Trip: Wyoming Mashup - Date: 5/20/2008 Trip Report: *Not sure if this belongs here or in the ice forum...? Summary: Day 0: PDX -> SEA -> BZN -> Yellowstone National Park Resort Day 1: The Silver Cord (3 p/175 m), Yellowstone -> Devils Tower Day 2: Devils Tower: Bon Homme (Horning Variation), Belle Fourche Buttress (1st 2 pitches), One way sunset (1st 2 pitches) Day 3: McCarthy North Face (4 p) Day 4: Devils tower -> BZN -> SEA -> PDX Details: So after a great start to ice season it all came to a grinding halt when I took the plunge to purchase a second home and rent my first one (JayB enter stage left ). Two months of looking/inspecting/bidding/closing/packing/moving/unpacking/renting/etc etc flew by and suddenly it was May! Shit! Where did ice season go!?!? I wanted (needed???) a last ice fix before summer set in and it sure wasnt going to happen around here. I needed a partner and some ice pronto. I tracked down Bryan who had just finished his first semester of grad school unscaved and begged him into a little ice climbing. Made some calls and sent some emails and determined that assuming the road was open the silver cord would likely be in. The Silver Cord Cascade: Yes not my photo. And no I dont know the difference between a cascade and a waterfall. The story with the Silver Cord is it is located in the grand canyon of Yellowstone National Park... the Cord most definitely forms every year however as the Park doesnt plow the roads in winter one either has to have a sled and/or ride the snow coach in addition to skinning to access the cord. Basically the math is 3 days for 175 meters of ice. So why not just wait until the road is open? Most years by the time the road is open/plowed the cord has already melted out. Due to these logistics involved the cord hasnt seen many ascents even though it checks in @ WI3+. But we were in luck! The road was open (so they said... more later), the temps looked good so I packed my bags, threw in my rocks shoes in case the predicted west coast heat wave made it out east and hopped a plane to BZN. Bryan grabbed me @ the airport and we headed south. We managed to get to the park just before dark. After some sleep we go back up and left the car by 5 am... we found the road wasnt actually open as far as they said it was so we walked some road to the trail head. As one walks along the top of the canyon rim you end up rapping down the cord and then climbing back out. We found the cord using JoJo's excellent beta, rapped the route, climbed and were back to the car by noon. Grand Canyon of Yellowstone National Park: !!! Pitch 1: Pitch 2: Pitch 3: Water ice in May... gotta love it. We were hoping for some more ice so we called Jay @ the Silvertip Mountain Center to see how things were holding up @ Cooke City. Jay told us things were sliding and it was suppose to be 60 tomorrow... alas: good bye 07/08 ice season (though I hear Cali Ice is still in!) After a quick soak in the boiling river we headed east for the devils tower. Boiling River: Gotta love the natural hot springs Moo? We made it to Devils Tower by 11 or so... I'd never been to Devils Tower before so Bryan ran me around the next two days on a mini sampler of the tower (emphasis on mini... the tower is HUGE!). Stem box: Wide: Hands: 5.5 my ass: Tips to hands: Woof? McCarthy North Face: Tips to ringlocks: Summit views: MisterE: eat your heart out Epilogue: So yeah: devils tower is worth the trip... I'm hoping to get back out there this fall. Hundreds of multipitch trad routes! Cheers to Bryan to another great trip, JoJo for great beta, and Frank for letting us dirtbag at his place Gear Notes: BEAR SPRAY! We saw lots of grizzly tracks

My company provides a paid 8 week sabbatical every 7 years of employment for US based employees... the year you take it you also receive your vacation so for that year you get a total of 11-12 weeks off paid. I'm fairly certain most global companies do something similar to even out the # of days worked as international employees get many many more days off per year than US based workers.

Sounds like most people feel my contributions dont make up for my posting style/attitude and cc would be better off with out me.

Looks like Mammut has a 8.3 and a 8.5 double... 8.3mm (46g/m) only available in 50 or 60 m lengths 8.5mm (48g/m) comes in 50m, 60m and 100m Beal makes an 8.6mm (48g/m) only comes in 60m

I knew we could make it to 5 pages Nice work everyone!

Correct me if I a wrong here Dane but you want a rope that is certified as a double but not necessarily as a single... right? I have climbed on a few different brands but have had the best luck with Beal ropes... I'm on my second set of 8.1 mm (whatever they are called)... they are certified to be used as both twin and double/half... I've uses just one on very easy terrain but depending on how much mixed you are planning on might want something a little beefier... I believe Beal makes a 8.5 or so... not sure. Mine arent bicolor so I had to mark them.

In: Out:

looks too warm to me... everyone should go to smith!

Just start a "what did you do last weekend" thread! Those are great!

sounds good you nerds! I sure hope pink starts posting some TRs... regardless of how new or old they are. In fact... I wish everyone would post more TRs: TRs >>>>> spray RuMR: chug chug chug chug!