John Frieh

Again thanks everyone. About the bear: not a griz just a local black bear. Though it looks like he(?) was walking upright at the time he was on all fours... I think because we were above him on the ridge the "top view" made it look like he was walking upright. Dr Roper was kind enough to add this one to his excellent webpage: Now only if Blake or Sol would post their new and improved approach beta (nudge nudge)

Sorry... couldnt resist Good on ya for getting out and posting a TR about it!

Roper has some excellent info on his site about how to identify DP on a map: link (scroll down) I guess the USGS has some mistakes on it...

Blake/Sol: how long did it take you guys to go out your alternative approach? Time? Could you post the beta since it sounds like your way in is better? Pics if you have any? Thanks!

So that's what I'm still picking out of my arms and legs? Flavor?

With the pyramid lake approach it would be quite accessible and looks pretty damn good. Darin's supercouloir of the cascades was still holding snow on the true mantis pk. (i think). Dont climb anything Sky could potentially ski unless you solo it Mantis itself looked slabby and crackless though I suspect you were looking at the couloir... when you moving back Mike?

Guess it depends on your definition of long I would talk to Craig... seems him or Burdo would at least have an idea of some possible additions to your list or could at least talk to Pete for you. Pete has been very very active in the Enchantments I dont know about banning... based on what I know/have heard about Pete he is out still putting routes up (@ 59!) instead of wasting time here. That and Pete is so recluse I kinda doubt a BBS is his style. Maybe a mod could chime in?

dude!

You might want to run that list past Mr Doorish Sol... I bet he could add a few more 12s to it!

I like your style

Has this seen a repeat yet?

Awesome points and info all around everyone! I guess I asked about the # of pullups as dont any of you remember how many pullups Alex Lowe did (or at least what people said)... I believe I read somewhere he did like 500 in a day once. And yeah some of it might be part of the "lung with legs" hype but I believe all would agree Alex was really really strong. I honestly think as long as you arent increasing your overall mass that strength is a great thing. And I totally agree: technique is king. Always has been always will be. But for those of us that lack the time/ice to master technique need to supplement. Like strength... Ill try to add more to this soon

Nice work you little bastards! I cant wait for you two to have to get real jobs Ill dig though my pics... I think I have a good one that captures most of the route... that ridge is as big or bigger than anything we have out here Very jealous but stoked you two nabbed it!

It was mixed in there... I think I have a photo somewhere of all the bumps on my arms

Oh and did you guys attempt this line or something on Mantis? Mantis is the summit due east of DP...

Did Roper tell you it was us looking for beta? You guys are a little stingy with the beta eh? We both pulled on two pieces passing a tight chimney right of "the blob"... it's the second to the last point in the arete that overhangs on most sides. With out a pack in chimney it would have been easy but whatever... it's alpine

Trip: Distal Phalanx - North Arete (FA) Date: 9/6/2008 Summary: First Ascent of the North Arete of Distal Phalanx 5.10, A0 Grade IV. Sept 6th 2008 John Frieh and Craig Gyselinck Distal Phalanx courtesy of John Roper Connecting the dots... Sure enough. Surf Mr Scurlock's long enough and you'll find something that'll make you swear under you breath and scramble for your stack of CAGs... seems to be a weekly occurrence for me. Only this time the offending picture had a link..? Click. Hook. Line. Sinker. Dr Roper roped me in with this: "Distal Phalanx (7615+) is the central climax of the long, untouched north arete above Neve Creek" I immediately fired off an email to the good doctor only to learn the untouched had recently "been touched though was still unclimbed" Touched but still unclimbed? Why I wanted to know... Too chossy? Too hard? Beta? Details? The good doctor forwarded my request for details and got this in return: "They went up to McAllister Creek bridge to cross Thunder Creek." Hmmm... But whatever it was... chossy, hard, etc... it didnt really matter. I had sent the pic to Craig (Alpinemonkey) and he was stoked! Both of us had to be @ work Monday morning so we figured we had to be at minimum halfway up the arete on Saturday if not on the summit to allow enough time on Sunday to get out and home. After examining the terrain and mileage we would have to cover before the actual climbing we agreed we needed to be underway by 2:30 am. Unfortunately both of us had to work a full day on Friday so we didnt get to the TH until late... I had time for 2 hours of shut eye in the parking lot next to my car before having to puke and rally. (Funny side story: some walking by around midnight felt the need to tell me to "get a tent" ) We were on the trail @ 2:40. We reached the bridge across thunder creek quickly and promptly began the schwack up Thunder creek to Neve creek and on up to Distal Phalanx. Neve Creek Craig in a sea of Stinging Nettles Craig and I joked "When I first saw the route my skin tingled! Then I realized it was just the stinging nettles" Local riff raff Neve Falls Other falls (summit in upper left hand corner) We started the arete around 11 am. Taking advantage of ramp systems and vegetation (veggie belay!) we were able to simul solo the lower half the arete (maybe a move or two at most of 5.6). As we didnt know where the next water source would be we started the arete with 4 liters each in addition to overnight gear on our backs... unfortunately the heavier packs, lack of sleep and effort already expended getting up Neve creek was starting to take a toll on each of us... it was apparent we were moving slower than normal. I was worried we werent going to make the summit by night fall. We busted out the rope at the halfway point where the arete gets much steeper and began simul climbed until the terrain demanded we pitch it out. I think we each found our second wind or the fact that dusk was coming quickly and the upper arete lacked bivy ledges but we started climbing much faster. Craig Neve Falls visible below Closing in Ask me about my windshirt! Summit! We barely made the summit by nightfall... I followed the last pitch by headlamp. In the interest of finishing before dark we opted to A0 one or two moves instead of hauling packs (we both climbing the entire route carrying bivy gear + water for the next day). We spent two hours trying to get a head start on the awaiting descent but more or less created more work for us the next day. We passed out in some bushes SE of the summit around 10 pm... 20 hours of effort on two hours of sleep had finally caught up with us Craig: So you're going to make coffee... right? The next morning we sorted out where we were and proceeded to climb back up over Styloid Peak and down to Thunder Creek. We searched in vain for some way across Thunder Creek to the easy trail on the other side... no such luck. Two days of schwacking had driven us we spent a good 15 minutes trying to prop a bean pole across one narrow point of the creek Down thunder creek we marched... I repeated "one less step... each step counts" over and over in my head. To our surprise we made much much better time on the way out than back in and we back to the TH around 4:30 pm. Epilogue: I had a blast. Yeah... the approach is brushy but it is no way as bad as going into Bear. In fact... if you've climbed the CNB of Bear and felt the climb was worth the approach chances are you'd like this climb. It is after all awaiting a FFA! Gear Notes: green, red, yellow c3 x1 0.3 x2 0.4 x2 0.5 x3 0.75 x2 1 x2 2 x2 3 x1 3.5 (old style) x1 4 (old style) 70 m rope 5-13 nuts hammer/pins (didnt use) Approach Notes: Ill edit my post with some maps and such.

Ill try and do one @ lunch assuming people quit walking into my cube asking for stuff Blake: fair enough. I assumed Roper mentioned it was Craig and I asking... I figured you would have emailed me. Maybe he didnt mention it was us...?

Bill/Ivan: the obvious arete: Blake: so should I assume you and partner were the two "mystery climbers" from the other attempt that Roper mentioned but wouldnt name for some reason? Why are you so tight lipped with beta these days? Approach to gunsight... this... what's the deal?

Yeah... rob has his kids often do rope climbs (footless, L sit, etc) instead of pull ups... in addition to their regular serving of K2E and/or ankles 2 bar

Depends on who you ask, what you are climbing, etc etc. Many opinions all equally valid for and against leashes exist

Thanks Bob! Great info! Ill pass your feedback and suggestions on the Android along. My plan is to try the test next week on my quarks and nomics... perhaps Ill also try it with leashes. I didnt get "serious" about ice climbing until about the same time the whole leashless gig got started up/recycled/whatever you want to call it so I've been leashless more or less from the start. I climbed with leashes a little before that but it was on ice grades so easy that any pump I remember was likely due to poor technique on my part. I guess I started the thread as it was recently suggested to me to cut 10/15 lbs this winter from some I have a lot of respect for... I'm deliberating doing it as it wont be easy for me to drop a lot of weight. Hmmm... Again: thanks for the post!

we still use them! who knew! speaking of feet and training grab a friend and try this one: Tabata Calf Raises 1 round = 20 seconds of work 10 seconds of rest. 8 round total. Rest in the elevated position.

I dont mean to be a dick but notice in the first pic you almost cant tell the difference between the graffiti and the chalked up climbing holds. Graffiti sucks... but so does caked on chalk and tick marks.