John Frieh

Thanks to the efforts and contributions of the SMCC as well as local climbers in WA and MT the road is plowed weekly all the way to the main fork parking lot until April 1st. You could literally drive a golf cart up the road most days

Note the graphic on the guy's shirt on the right :noway:

I heard this happy couple met on E harmony and climbed el cap on their first date! Who says you cant find true love on the internet? baa :[]

No: do they work on Toyotas?

Bump: Toyota Mechanic recommendation for a Toyota Dolphin in PDX?

Gene: as you've likely already noticed everyone seems to have a few favorite circuit exercises that they argue will benefit climbing. I would go as far as to say just about any type of physical exercise is going to do more good then harm for your climbing. As a wise man once said "everything works... nothing works forever" So... search the internet semi regularly and look for new and fun stuff. Dont cherry pick the stuff you are good at avoid the stuff you dislike or worse arent good at. I hate and suck at the Sott's press but I try and do it twice a week for those very exact reasons. A few people that have many exercises you could do with the equipment you listed that I really like for whatever reason include: Steve Maxwell: lots of bodyweight and kb movements to gain from him... many of them on youtube Rob Shaul/Mtn Athlete: Rob didnt invent most of these but he has some classic strongman stuff demonstrated As you noticed other listed some other websites above also... I bet you find at least one or two exercises you like on those sites also. That said the real value of training isnt from the individual exercises you choose... it is how you put them all together in a larger program that truly matters. Example: the deadlift is a truly great lift that benefits multiple muscle groups (some people call it the king lift) but just deadlifting all the time is going to leave holes in other areas of your fitness. What you need to do and likely have already done is identify your training goals and build a program around that. My generic prescription for anyone is as follows: 1) General: Training schedule will depend on your goals. if your goal is to be better at your job your program will look a certain way. If your program is to be a better triathlete and be better at your job then your program will be different. Isolate all of your goals and start there. I generally advise that at most you can truly go hard on only 3 days. By hard I mean really truly hard at maximum intensity. People think they can go hard 5x days a week but perceived exertion is not a good measure of intensity. You may train more than three times a week but the other workouts should be comprised of recovery workouts. A schedule could possibly look like this: Monday: Hard Gym Tuesday: Recovery Wednesday: Hard Gym Thursday: Recovery Friday: Hard Gym Saturday: Recovery Sunday: Rest As for additional work you can always add things to the schedule. If you add to the schedule though be careful to monitor your recovery status. Add low impact movements like rowing and biking. You could also add more running or hiking with load carriage depending on how destructive running and hiking are on your body. If you add endurance work to the mix you may do it on the recovery days depending how destructive the work actually is. For example 90 minutes of easy paced cycling may not be destructive but a 90 minute road race may be. If you want to do two a days that will be acceptable some days as well. If you do this do the endurance work after (later on in the day) after you have done the strength type work in the gym. It will make the endurance work more efficient and will not compromise your strength type work. 2) Do not underestimate the value of recovery. It is the most important aspect of training. Plan your workouts accordingly. Engage in recovery practices on a daily basis including recovery showers, foam roller sessions and recovery walks. Even though you will have to work really fucking hard do not assume that always working harder is the answer. Work smart. 3) Intensity - during your hard days you need to go hard. Floor it. The underlying premise of all of this is that you possess the mental fortitude to push yourself. 4) Diet - sort it out now. You cannot outwork a shitty diet. It needs to be as healthy as possible. 5) Training: for training ideas start looking at other peoples training journals/websites/books. Not knowing your level of fitness it is hard for me to prescribe any specific workouts but single leg strength will definitely be important. Do not just work your strengths. Work your weaknesses as well. Focus on the Power-to-weight ratio. Be as strong as you can in as small of a package as possible. Finally seriously consider seeing a coach to make sure you are doing this stuff correctly. As this stuff is potent the potential for injury exists. Fern lives very close to you and is an awesome coach... consider climbing in Squamish one day and seeing her in the evenings for some form/programming talk. If you can find the time to trek to Portland I would gladly spend a day or so working with you on both movements as well as some programming discussion... in fact bring some friends if you want. Hope this helps!

God's Revolver :rawk:

Where are the pics of the wallcreeper Graham?

See you there! First round @ the west rib is on you!

All great suggestions. Add to those the lines on London Tower climbers left of Trailer Park including Cornhole Couloir and you have a great list of objectives. If it was me I would fly into the Ruth camp below Dickey and see what you can snag down there before heading up to the Root and trying Ham and Eggs.

Mixed Climbing by Sean Isaac answers all your questions... great book if you are serious about M climbing

The amount of cardio he's doing makes me feel like going for a run, right now! I had the same thought and swapped a few emails with him about it... Ill fwd them to you. Long story short for his current climbing objective (K2) the "weak link" in his climbing skill set is cardio performance @ altitude and/or performance on a limited calories hence the amount of cardio volume. That said just because Steve (or insert your favorite pro climber) does it doesnt mean you should also... we all have different training backgrounds, strengths and weaknesses and as a result should all follow different training cycles with different emphasis. Figure out what your goals are, where you are at as an athlete (strengths/weaknesses/etc) and then build yourself a program!

Guy and girl from the rado... climbed it 3rd week of April. They had just come out as we got to Talkeetna. Now that you mention it I cant remember if they topped it out or not. Shit: about 90 days to AK!

Gadd recently did a 24 hr. ice session on TR in Ouray, doing 194 laps with about 25,000 ft. of vertical. I would definiely look at his regimen for endurance. Training for the endless ascent: 1/24/10 blog post I felt a lot stronger even after only a couple of months of Crossfit--I think that at my advanced age (42) I had a host of weaknesses in my body's basic function (jumping, squats, presses, etc. etc). Crossfit put the light on those weaknesses, and helped correct them. CF isn't perfect, but it's damn effective for general physical fitness. I have no affiliation with CF.

It varies year to year just like other alpine routes. A few parties reported it as a 4 last year.

Gene: How tall is the ceiling in your garage? What equipment do you have so far? PS: Steve House recently started a training blog that doesnt deal so much with specific exercises as it does program design (at least so far). Worth checking out IMO

Hey Gene: you better specify what type of climbing you are training for or the sport climbers/boulders are going to tell you how much time you are wasting with that circuit stuff

Thanks all! :laf: Busted. Though let the record show I deadlifted 475# @ 184# BW (new PR!) less than 24 hours before his arrival so perhaps Lamaze is the hot new training fitness craze?!?!

Very cool Mike! Great to see people putting their energy in positive outlets I'd encourage you to get in contact with the great people at Climb Max... they along with the Access Fund have organized clean ups at Rocky Butte once a year though usually in the summer time. I bet they'd be willing to send out an announcement for you to their vast email list!

Any of those Aremet picks? If so Ill take them

Davidk nailed it: sharp dressed man. ~5 clips to a fixed nut (sketchy) then natural gear (spectres in moss and choss, then stubbies) to the top. The rock climbing is around 10a and the run-out on top feels like m6 or so but I've heard of peeps trying to drytool the whole thing and calling it m7+

If you must limit it to just 10 GP is higher quality (cleaner) and more committing then West Face of Gunsight Main Peak IMO. Gunsight might clean up with more traffic but given in the same amount of time it takes to reach the base you can drive to Squamish and do harder, longer, cleaner routes I dont see that happening.

That cache page unfortunately doesnt show all of the twits... some of the best stuff was futher down. It's a shame it got taken down... some classic stuff Cheers to who ever it was

[video:youtube]

Off the top of my head Scoop CBR Passenger SEWS GITM Stuart I know WA Pass has a few other 11- routes Not really sure what you mean by "top" though...?