John Frieh

Washing my WT windshirt in TX direct didn't improve the repellency significantly but I generally run in mine in the winter so it doesn't need to be waterproof as chances are I'm going to wet out from sweat anyways. In regards to your current shell: have you been using the spray on or the wash in? Wash in tends to give a more long lasting coat... especially if you stop the load in the middle of the wash cycle and let it set for 10-15 minutes. Do keep in mind goretex delaminates (the glue that holds it to the outer fabric breaks down) in about 5 years espically if you use it often.

Arcteryx Alpha SL... 12 ounces.

Quit your whining Kirb... we topped out just fine if I recall... Maybe if you trained a little more you could follow 11c instead of jug it… Chuck: generally the weight difference between a 60 and a 70 is a pound or two… I fully agree with saving weight at all costs but you should do it elsewhere… the time lost on an approach to 2 extra lbs on your back is easily regained (and then some) by being able to run pitches together or do a full climb in less pitches… example: I was able to avoid a hanging belay on a climb I did this summer that will remain nameless or the kids will get out the gay chest beater stamp again by having a pair of 70s instead of 60s (Kirb and I did it in 2 pitches). And if anything people may start with 70s and end up with 60s after a year of real use. But I digress… there are plenty of other threads he can look at for diameter decisions. AJ needs to be more specific about the type/style of alpine climbing he will be doing…

AJ: I would recommend getting a pair of 70 m half ropes; especially if you climbing alpine rock. A half rope system will allow you to minimize rope drag on meandering pitches; something a single or a twin pair couldn't. Do you plan on ever having the second jug one of the lines or will you ever use one of the lines to haul? This will determine the diameter you should get...

I predict all CDNs are gonna drive across the border to buy there outdoor gear at the Bellingham REI...

Friday night: Mostly cloudy. Rain likely in the evening...becoming a chance of rain overnight. Lows 37 to 42. Southwest wind 5 to 15 mph. Chance of precipitation 60 percent. Saturday: Mostly cloudy. Cooler. A chance of showers. Highs 53 to 58. Northwest wind 5 to 15 mph. Chance of precipitation 30 percent. Saturday night: Partly cloudy. A slight chance of rain showers and snow showers. Lows 28 to 33. Sunday and Sunday night: Partly cloudy. Highs 54 to 59. Lows 28 to 33.

I asked only because a few choss piles and road cuts exist in PDX which allow one to practice piton craft (peter croft?) without pissing anyone off or ruining free routes... I would recommend anywhere you can set up a fixed line quickly and access multiple routes off that anchor (which is just about every area in PDX). As you get the hang of things you will likely search out very thin lines and face routes to practice micro nut placements and hooking. If you want to borrow any aid gear (cam hooks, micro nuts, brass, solo aider, etc) drop me a line... I line in PDX.

How involved of a remix is it? Turntablelab.com sells a number of excellent software packages but it might be overkill depending on what you are up too... As the germans say: "wwwwwwwwwwweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeemmmmmmix!"

Clean or not?

I would say look into whether or not those certs would count towards your RN... you never know. However... regardless of whether or not they count I think anyone serious about climbing should complete and keep current a WRT cert... especially if you dabble in the backcountry. Your first aid kit weight will roughly double after you complete one.

The city is 2.5 hours from SLC and 4 hours from Boise... but Boise is closer to the sawtooths which I think is better… I don’t know if the sawtooths and Wasatch are really comparable… (apples and oranges?). Boise would be my pick... Kegs or polygamy... you decide...

Are you thinking about teaching for NOLS or taking a NOLS class? NOLS is not guide oriented; it just turns out that the depth and thoroughness of their curriculum attracts some individuals interested in taking the initial steps towards guiding... Additionally, it will depend on who you work for, but some groups will recognize and credit your RN status but will still require you to complete a WFR and WEMT.

They stopped making it in 2000ish... I've seen them on Ebay from time to time... nice for mtneering as you can leave the handle at home. I drilled mine so that it can also be used as a fluke.

Nice TR... and word up: the finger isn't an official NA classic... but it's better than many of them that are... Did you see Brock Mayo's comment about his balls in the summit register? I think he summed up how good the finger is...

Kevin You might want to specify a few things in your request to get a more specific answer. Are you climbing: - A first ascent/ few repeats route or an established route? - rock type? - snow and ice expected? - winter or summer conditions? As you are inquiring about your first alpine rack I’m going to guess you are looking to cut your teeth on some established, well traveled routes. Unless the route calls for pins specifically, leave them at home. If it does call for pins, determine the rock type you will be climbing. The type of rock will dictate which pins to bring (i.e. granite vs limestone). The weather conditions will also impact both your pin and rack selection. In winter smaller cracks tend to fill with ice/snow. Scraping/cleaning them out is sometimes an option but a quicker/safer alternative is to drive a pin home in the muck. A well placed pin (emphasis on well placed) is a bomber, multi directional piece that can protect big falls. Bottom line: conditions and rock type will cause racks to vary from 3 – 8 pins. A generic rack follows: The basics of a rack are your chocks: take a partial set… your smallest chock should be the next size up above your biggest pin and your largest chock should be right below your smallest cam. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 6-7 chocks… Cams: 4-7 cams. Rack should include 1, 2, 3, 4 camalot (minimum) or equivalent. # 4 camalot can replaced with # 11 BD hex. If you need more than this or will be in icy conditions take corresponding hexes… you can pound hexes into icy cracks than won’t take a cam. I prefer metolius curved hexes. Biners: No more than 50… you should attempt to make this number as small as possible. A few of the wiregates on the market are so light that 2 together are lighter than 1 locker... take these in place of any lockers you might want (with exception of your belay biner) as the two are more useful than the 1 locker and as safe when opposite and opposed. Any lockers you do take should have plastic sleeves (Petzl makes them) as metal locking sleeves/gates love to freeze shut. Generally I take 1 belay biner locker and the rest wire gates. Minimize the number (rack multiple pieces of rock pro on 1 biner, etc). Draw the line at 50. Draws: route will dictate… Generally 8 - 24”, 2 - 48” rabbit runners, and 1 – 3 screamers. Put a screamer in each anchor if the terrain is spicy. Ice screws: 0 – 6. Route will dictate. Bring a V thread rigger (the grivel one is awesome and has a knife built in). Extra: knife, 3 step aiders (tie there out of webbing so you can untie and use as rap material on the way down), prussic/belay escape material, 2 webolettes (14’ is good length and you can cut it up). Additional items (jumars, pickets, hooks, etc) will be dictated by the route.. you need to anticipate route needs. Spend some time out there and figure out what you prefer… climb safe!

You have been misled... smith grades are fluffier than the down coats worn by the grade inflators themselves (aka sportos)

Are you only climbing ice with these or alpine rock also? Generally the mark up on technical gear is 42% for just about everyone... I doubt shops make more on one company vs another. Looking around it seems just about everyone makes duodess (or whatever you want to call it) in dry 70 lenghts... or at least PMI, bluewater, and beal do.

Beal stopped endorsing this in 2003. They no longer certify/test the ice lines as half and twin.

Isn't the scenic cruise a grade V 5.10 in the black canyon of the gunnison You wanna be off that thing before dark you better be moving fast, kind of ironic however, because the black canyon isn't alpine, it is a canyon. So where does this leave us It leaves us at reading comprehension... I wasn't referring to that climb but making a reference to Thrills climbing pace. I used scenic cruise as it is similar to what old people do on Sundays or in their RVs.

Let me reword it: You and some other climbers enjoy trad climbing at a leisurely pace to enjoy the view. Other climbers, such as myself, trad climb to become more proficient for the alpine. Hence we attempt to climb as quickly as possible. If you enjoy the leisurely pace; why wouldn’t want to pull over? Pulling over allows you even more time to enjoy the views?

Not according to some pretty good climbers, according to the latest AAC journal... Which article are you referring to?

I disagree. Trad climbing is practice for the alpine. Speed is safety in the alpine. Therefore practice trad climbing quickly and proficiently. Consider this: Your policy for getting passed is bonking them with a # 11 hex… what if my policy for slow parties is bonking them with my # 11 hex as I go by? Or bootying all their gear as I go by? Probably wouldn’t like it, huh? In this day and age climbers are mastering speed climbing and then applying it in the alpine… look at the results in Patagonia produced by the kids who spend there summers in the valley. No one is telling you how to climb or at what speed… if you prefer the scenic cruise more power to you. But return us the favor and don’t tell us how to climb (slower)… if we catch you: pull over. If anything it will give you even more time to enjoy the route. Glassglow: you commentary is unproductive to the board. Clean it up.

Maker's and/or Mr Walker for the haul bag champ...

Perhaps for saving your knees yes but not as a blanket statement. Bottom line: do both and vary month to month so your body doesn't become acclimated.

yeah Hannah told me all about her not wearing bras anymore because you kept fumbling..... When you're hot... you're hot. Hey jmace! Another reason to date a climbing girl! Prana tops don't have clasps to deal with!