John Frieh

Or does this belong in the "the hot female trad climber thread"?

sarcasm?

As Mr. Layton aka Gravy has been kind enough to share his "wish list/to do list"... you are right: he hasn't done any of those... that's why people should specify what they are posting...

Could people specify if theirs is a wish list or a suggested list (or prepare to be inundated with beta requests)? Thanks!

Sounds like somebody has good looks to spare... Isn't that steve house wearing one in the new patagonia catalog?

Petzl face shield: for protecting what little good looks one has...

Nope. Don't know them.

It’s innocent until proven guilty not guilty until proven innocent... present the evidence that it was rap bolted.

Based on the seditionary comments to date I doubt any further information I have will change the so called consensus stance... I would be willing to bet that it is their opinion that bolts (no matter how they were placed) are wrong... perhaps scott and greg w can answer this.

What is the consensus? When and where was it reached? You will not find a post anywhere by me that specifically states whether I support or condemn this route (kinda like you won’t find a post by me dissing people who can't climb 5.10 as you also claim). At this point the only action I have endorsed is to answer the questions I keep posting before rushing to action as you seemed so bent on doing. If you can find the answers to those questions I will be happy to provide you a topo.

Little scotty: if you play with shit you can plan on smelling like it. I'm gonna guess the street you heard this on is ladiesbancampsewingcircle.com I treat people the way they treat me... Maybe that's why I won't tell you. On the other hand many people who are cordial and respectful of fellow users on this site have pmed me for the details and I have told them where it is. I did not put the route up. To date I have only replaced a number of alpine bolts in the same manner the FA party did only after recieving there permission to replace them. And if Cavey is the only source on this one then chances are its bullshit. Yet again... can you answer these questions: Have you seen the route? Done the route? Have a name or rating? Know who put it up? Know when they did it? Examined the "seam" in question? How many bolts are there? How far apart are they? How steep is the route? Are there any drilling stances? If not you are just another seditionary.

Ummm... I'm fairly certain Greg W isn't banned... I got a PM from him yesterday.

www.ladiesbancampsewingcircle.com Make sure to post a physical threat of violence against me and start a rumor about rap bolts on some mountain none of them or you have climbed in 20 years or you won't fit in to well...

But at what cost? IYO: when is the cost to great?

Some features of a jacket are essential... one's climbing style will dictate what is included on that list... I agree with velcro cuffs (out of curiosity what did Marmot replace the cuff closure with?), and a hem cord... but that is about it. IMO: A collar cord is extra weight as if the spin drift/weather is that bad you would have a jacket with a hood on anyways. Pit zips break and are extra weight. Yes I own a few jackets that do have them but its because the manufacture didn't offer a zipperless option. I would suggest reading Twight's Extreme alpinism for a good discussion/debunk of "the layering system". Gadd's Climbing Ice discussion and scenario is also a must read. I would be happy to photocopy them for you and mail them to you if you'd like.

works if no-one hits. Let peace begin with me.

Let me tell you what they taught all of us in kindergarten: Don't hit. Seems like a good policy to me.

“Stand out firmly for Justice as witness before God, even against yourselves, against your kin and against your parents, against people who are rich or poor. Do not follow your inclinations or desires lest you deviate from Justice. Remember, God is the best of Protectors and well acquainted with all that you do.” "None are more hopelessly enslaved than those who falsely believe they are free."

Priorities man. I bet you could afford some new cords if you ditched that PRG membership and started drinking Folgers... Speaking of which could people buy more Intel stock? I need a snowmobile...

There is a study from the BMC that was published a few years ago that says in short "ropes dont break" even when stood on by crampons, and speared with picks. I cant find the artical, but Ade might know where it can be found. I would guess that the small stress put on a rope by driving a crampon through it, does not weaken it as much as tying a knot in it, so the breaking point of the rope is still the knot, but in almost every case your ice pro will fail first. I'd be super interested in seeing that story... kinda related to that there has never been a recorded incident of a rope breaking/severing on its own... always an edge or something sharp has been involved. I generally consider/view my pro the weak link of the system… especially in alpine where less than ideal pro is sometimes the status quo. If one is climbing solid rock and using cams the next up in line to break are the runners (especially those rabbit runners/snake runners… 14/15 kN at best!) and then the rope. Its also interesting to look at the % of full strength a rope breaks at depending on the knot tied… no wonder the follow through figure 8 is the only recommended knot…

1) Yes it should and it does. Read the UIAA test and you will see this: A single rope must sustain on one strand a minimum of 5 test falls with a drop weight of 80 kg without breaking. Single ropes are recommended whenever a fall on a single strand can occur. They are safe in the event of a fall and are used in situations with potentially high fall factors. Half ropes must also sustain 5 test falls on a single strand with a drop weight of 55 kg. They can be used as a single rope when the fall factor is less than 1. In the event of a serious fall, the necessary safety factors can only be achieved when the rope is used double. The double-rope technique is where each strand is clipped separately through different runners, giving two distinct very light single ropes. The greatest advantage of this technique is it provides less risk of total rope system failure. Twin ropes are tested with a drop weight of 80 kg on two strands together and must survive 12 test falls. The twin-rope technique, when used correctly, provides the highest safety margin in event of a fall. In this technique both ropes are clipped together through the same karabiners where they act as a stronger, safe single rope. 2) Yes the physical act of clipping one of the two half ropes is no different, if not easier, than a single. However climbing on half ropes requires one pay more attention (compared to climbing on a single rope) as you generally clip the ropes alternately through your pieces of pro (yes exceptions exist). Doing this requires that you remember which one you clipped last (harder than it sounds especially when your attention is focused on the shitty screw you places 30’ below you) and, even more difficult, is not criss crossing the strands. As most climbers clip both ropes through the first piece of pro, it is easy to get the strands twisted up (and risk rope burn or cut). To combat this I put two separate biners on the clip end of the screamer (generally my first piece is a screamer) to promote rope separation. The bottom line: half ropes are easy to clip but employing them is a little more complicated than “clip and go”. 3) Clipping two ropes that are certified as half ropes through the same biner on one piece of equipment results in higher impact forces (forces felt by the faller, belayer, and most importantly the piece of pro you are falling on) than if just clipping one of the two half ropes ***unless the rope is certified and advertises as both a half rope and a twin rope… few ropes meet this distinction***. Yes we all run it out on ice but one of the two half ropes through each piece of pro is fine… if your belayer is using proper half rope belay technique than even if the piece of pro fails the other rope clipped through the next piece should catch you (as you protected against a ground fall) as your belayer knows to lock off both strands.

I wish I did get it on film... all my partners laughed themselves wet in the pants when I told that story over beers... I know they each would have paid 20 buck to have been there...

One more for the record: Was soloing one of the cedar trees that grow in the courtyard on campus at OSU over winter break... attempting to get some swings in before a planned ice climb that weekend… As one tool was cocked back to place… the other one sheared (bark it was placed in cracked off)... saw it start to pull so I pulled a batman and turned and jumped clear so I wouldn't snag my points on the base of the tree on the way down... Not sure how high I was but had enough time to see the ground come up... impact was great enough that my knees bent far enough for me to hit my head/helmet on my knee and knock myself out cold on my knee... also broke headlamp on knee from impact... not sure how long I was out but woke up in the dirt... hobbled away from that one also.

thump thump approx. 100 m fall head first (on chest) on SE slopes of N sister (approx. 50 degree slope) at the age of 15ish... lost ax immediately (hence length of fall) proceeded to rip both pickets and partners belay... slid roped together before partners body striking a series of rock outcroppings "arrested" the fall… human stopper nut? Partner broke foot in addition to a "few" brusies... went into shock... etc etc... I walked away with meatloaf arms (sleeves were pushed up at time). We both managed to “walk” out to pole creek… Sidenote: on drive home proceeded to fall asleep behind wheel and drift through oncoming 4th of July weekend traffic on 126... woke up in ditch on other side of road... partner looked at me and said "what are you trying to kill me or something?"... car only received minor dent. Took first NOLS course next summer... no issues since with the exception of some health aid falls…

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