John Frieh
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Everything posted by John Frieh
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You know anything beyond 3 days is nothing more than a best guess. Sell your skis and get some leashless tools...
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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
Is it the same one you make when you try the lefthand lieback crack? Wednesday the 26th is the plan... please notify me by pm that you are coming and if you need to borrow anything. I was out there last night and the crag was actually dry... saw some kids on the silver bullet wall... people might want to bring rock shoes if they are interested in taking advantage of this dry weather. I tried out the new line Mac cleaned earlier this week... mommy! I am so sore today. -
Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
This week I am house shopping on Tuesday How about Wednesday? Also: McKenzie and I should be out there tonight... Mac scoped a new line that is twice as tall as what we have been climbing and pulls a roof at the top. -
Myself and 2 partners I climb with that don't post on this site would each buy a pair.
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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
Tuesdays are my preference. Every other Wednesday is Euchre night. -
Profit sharing is the shit hmmm... snowmobile perhaps? Hey Jason! Better hurry up and graduate so you can get in on this. If not you can come be my intern this summer.
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5.10 newtons Scarpa Marathon La Sportiva mythos or focus
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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
Not much later than you... all this beer drinking and house shopping is zapping my send strength Need to increase my coffee intake. What night next week you turds? -
If you go Michael 70m ropes are the only way to go; unless of course you are simulclimbing the ridge. If you go I left some biners up there… can you bring them back? They are marked with dried blood from all the climbing partners I failed to ask if they had any allergies prior to climbing with them and subsequently had to kill.
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It was. He had a cam hook like object taped on. Good article though it was confusing: did they get the FA or not?
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My 4 mm quads are still going strong; I did bend a 3mm pick last month or so. My concern isn't snapping/bending it as much as repeated sharpening until nothing was left but stubs. Seems kinda consumption lifestyle/Americana to just “throw the whole thing away and buy another" when one could obviously minimize the amount of what is being disposed of. Just my 2 cents. Harkin: are you related to Dwayner?
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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
I'll poll people this week to see what night people prefer... I'd be happy to organize 2 different sessions a week if people can't settle on one. As far as which night we meet next week let's wait and see what people like before we start advertising a certain night. Personally I would like to avoid Thursdays as I tend leave for WA Thursday nights for weekends that I skip out on work Fridays. Wednesday and Tuesday nights work better for me. Layton (and everybody else): Ivan is usually there first at 3:30; I tend to roll in between 3:30 and 4 and we go until people have had enough. I don't want to stay later than 9ish though... so get your butt there as soon as you can. And FYI all: 3 separate protests scheduled for today downtown so avoid the guaranteed traffic mess. And as always: cell: 541.231.2062 alphanumeric: 888.267.5727 -
Sweet! I need a ropegun... I can carry all the stuff so you don't develop leg muscles.
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Forrest is a big kid... he can handle himself just fine. Wish I could go in there with him Have fun d00d!
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Mammut Twilight vs. Beal Joker and 6mm static
John Frieh replied to Blake's topic in The Gear Critic
70s for life! Link 'em up! Edit: so I should clarify a little... 70s for life in the alpine. 70s at many cragging areas is just extra weight... you should scope pitch lengths prior (if possible) and determine if you can link pitches are not. Good examples: Most pitches at smith don't break 35 m so you can link 2 in one. Same story on many routes at WA Pass and city of rocks. But in other areas (sawtooths) pitches are closer to 40-50 m so linking isn't an option and you end up with extra weight if you bring 70s. So... likely you will own a number of different lengths. And one time in the alpine you might want 60s is if you plan on simulclimbing... generally people half a rope (one person tie to end and other person ties into ends) to simul. Doing this w/ a 60 is cool but with a 70 you are almost too far out of verbal contact if the route is windy (good example N ridge of stuie) a 60 will facilitate easier contact. So... generally I reach for the 70s but from time to time I bring a 60. -
Mammut Twilight vs. Beal Joker and 6mm static
John Frieh replied to Blake's topic in The Gear Critic
(length of dynamic) x (% elongation)= length of elongation Add length of elongation to length of dynamic and this will tell you how long you need your static to be. Add on a few meters on to that value for rap anchor material. -
Perhaps the rep can answer... I know that the grivel pick is 5mm where the petzl quad is 4mm so yeah not much difference. Kinda sounds like we all want a replaceable pick...
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I bet the fab process they use is more costly due to the complexity of the pick design and the increased difficulty of cutting the shape in a thicker metal no less.
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That winter would have been the shit for FWAs...
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Agreed... the pick is beefy! However more than half the price of the tool is still less than the full price of the tool. Just a thought. You should start a thread with a poll and see if people would buy the tool only if a replaceable pick was offered or if they have/are planning on buying one regardless of the fixed pick. And thanks again for making some sweet gear!
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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
Hope you can join us some other time Tex... If you want I can give you location specifics and pics of the lines... Before I suckered some partners in crime I had success doing the ascender/chest harness/fixed line thing solo. Let me know… -
I know... I'm saying you guys should change the design so poor slobs like myself can save some cash by replacing just the pick instead of throwing away the whole tool after the pick is shot and having to buy a new one. Maybe I should chop the old one when its shot and weld on whatever fits.
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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
Yeah... I have plans tonight so I vote for Thursday. Please PM me if you are going to attend Thursday so I know how many TRs to bring... unless of course you don't mind standing in line waiting for a TR. -
Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
I should be able to make Thursday... I'll know later in the week. Same time? And everyone else: PM me if you still want to go Wednesday... I'd be stoked to go 2 days. -
Mammut Twilight vs. Beal Joker and 6mm static
John Frieh replied to Blake's topic in The Gear Critic
I trashed a pair of ice lines on a handful of routes over 6 months (only jugged on once) so unless you have money to burn or are going to only climb ice you might want to look at something a little thicker... I have a pair of 8.6s from Blue Water that are wearing nicely but still aren't that heavy. Guess it depends on what you have in store for them...