John Frieh
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Everything posted by John Frieh
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Was this a gear demo or did a gym have them for regular use? If so where?
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We were there! WHere were you? Lurking in the shadows After seeing how volatile the crowd was and particular avatars were being called out for potential violence I thought it might be wise to not announce who I was. Could have been you were so drunk you didn't see me
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How did you get up to the North side? I thought Hwy 35 was closed...
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FOR SALE: Garmont Tower GTX Mtn Boot, size eur 45
John Frieh replied to jstreet's topic in The Yard Sale
Got a picture? Garmonts are US sizing... or did you buy these in EU? -
I think you are talking about the PMI verglass that I have, they are certified as double or twin. Nope... I am talking about my Beals. Sounds like PMI offers it to. FYI: why having the option to go either double or twin is good is in teams of 2 clip them as double to have the absolute lowest impact forces possible with the rope and in teams of 3 clip as twins so that if either partner falls they are clipped through all the pieces so they don't fall as far, etc etc.
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Mmmm. Clusterfuck. Or is that rope origami? Or exhibit a: contributing factors to 13 hours on outer space?
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The two top mini slings on the gear sling are for stashing items you know you will need quickly... i.e. the # 3 camalot on the second pitch of the gendarme on stuie... stuff like that. I don't normally carry anything there expect maybe my camera case. I rack everything on the two slings running under my arm pits... how you rack is your business... everyone has a different opinion on where stuff goes. As far as avoiding the dreaded "all the shit is on the back part and out of reach" either adjust the sling (the metal buckle) so that the front of the gear sling is lower than the back... this tends to keep everything up front except on over hangs. In situations like that a biner duct taped in place will keep everything in front. Also I would venture a guess you won't be leading at your extreme red point limit with a pack on so chances are you won't need to find that piece of gear right away so a little gear migration every once and awhile won't hurt. And as far as swapping leads the pack seperates from the harness so you can take it off and wear just the gear sling when leading and give the pack to your partner. Grivel also sells just the gear sling so you could rotate packs. Does this help?
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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
See you bitches this Wednesday! Call (541.231.2062) or PM me if you are going to be there Anybody is welcome!!! Handlebar mustache helps you send sloper! -
I don't know of any teenage climbers from PDX on the page but a bunch of us old foggies climb on a daily basis out at Rocky Butte... all the information as well as when we will be out their next can be found here: PDX climb thread Can I ask why you only want to climb with people in their teens?
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Beal 8.1 (what ever they call them now) can be clipped as double or twin and have the lowest impact forces on the market. Where is that other thread that covered this?
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On the newer models (you will find some of the older designed ones floating around out there which lack the adjustability feature) the sizing is adjustable so one can custom fit the gear sling to you. Is that what you are asking? Plan on a health dose of seam grip for the oversized grivel logo on the back (hit the daisy chain points too) if you plan to take the thing out in the rain. Sweet pack for 50 bucks! Plenty of space to rack all the neutrino biners you find on only the hardest routes in the NW
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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
Next session is this Wednesday Oct 5th 4pm – whenever. Please PM or call me if you are planning on attending/interested and what, if any, gear you need to borrow. Newbies are welcome and encouraged. As always: 541.231.2062 -
I think DanielHarro was looking to go this weekend. I'm in for next Wednesday though!
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Are you sure that photo wasn't taken in CA? Sweet pic! I had a great year too (when I wasn't dropping things )!
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You have the rest of your life to work. You don't have the rest of your life to play in the mountains.
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g -14s will slog snow routes... but so will boots with nails pounded through the bottom of the soles. But both won't do it as well as the sarken. Perhaps a better way to say it is the g -14 weighs too much for snow routes and the front points are better for ice than snow. Generally the more specialized you make a piece of equipment the better it will preform at that type of climbing but will suck for everything else. Sarken or sabertooth if you can only own 1 crampon. And fruit boots on anything less than M9 is weak.
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I'm taking a crew of kids up the west ridge of stuie friday night/Sat morning prior to showing up at ropeup. PM me if interested.
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Are you shopping for ice climbing crampons or snow slogging crampons? If you are shopping for just ice crampons then an antibott plate should be the least of your worries. Both will climb ice just fine. The G -14 gives you the option to switch to mono instead of having to buy a second set of crampons. On the other hand you will likely have to buy a second set of crampons for snow slogs as the g -14 isn't ideal for that type of climbing. I have had no problems with my antibott plates on my sarkens. I do spray them with teflon lube prior to snow slog trips.
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Didn't you guys learn your lesson last year? You guys teased rumr all preseason and ended up with a shitty year. Hmmm...
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Dude! You cant vote more than once! Im calling you out on voter fraud. Im buying my plane ticket for the weekend of the 22nd See ya all there! Hey! I only voted once! I think TG's vote is the clincher as if he comes... so do his kegs! PS 15th/16th still in the lead!
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Bump Any new snow? Anybody been in to ingalls lake to have a look? Any beta would be great.
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What up stalker? Maybe you should change your avatar to olystalker Yeah I got a pair.
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Just go climbing bitches! If you can't send just leave a piece and bail or A0 the thing. If you do... AWESOME! Go climb something else!