John Frieh

Who's NOLSe? Speaking of I can't believe some hasn't grabbed that avatar yet... think of all the spray opportunities! Valuing/respecting and emulating something are two very different things Dr C Though I drink mostly water and coffee I am known to enjoy and wine too. If you value your alpine heritage so much maybe those pair of ice tools you can't seem to decide on should be a 90 cm alpenstock

Nov 24th/25th Update: Access: Mtneers Creek TH road was not gated: very little packed snow/ice encountered on Thursday on the way in... Gate was still not closed as of Friday though snow was accumulating at a health rate. Approach: Snowshoe pack from the TH all the way to ½ way around Stuart Lake. Snowshoe pack made for easy travel with minimal post holing. As packed trail stopped at Stuart Lake we post holed from Stuart Lake up to Stuart Glacier and down the Ice Cliff. Post holed out Mtneers Creek. No boot/snowshoe pack currently exists up Mtneers Creek… just the post holes we left Friday on the way out which are likely covered by now. And as we did it in the dark they likely zig zag and double back all over the place so it would be a waste of time to follow them . Snow shoes highly recommended until gyselinck gets off his lazy butt and reinstalls the boot pack like he did so well last year Routes: Stuart: - Ice Cliff Glacier is very much still in late fall conditions and releasing at inopportune moments. East side was still experiencing temp inversion on Friday morning which didn’t help things either. - NW Face: sweet ice lines on upper face! Never seen this much continuous ice on the NW face… usually it is the opposite in spring... the upper face is almost all snow/snice and the lower face gets all the ice. Lower face was bare so one would have to drytool/rock climb to reach ice lines. - SGC: looks thin and spicy! Thin snow/ice line the whole way! Looks sweet but likely gone with the amount of snow that has recently fallen. - North face in general: snow covering much of the rock. Argonaut: - Jason’s esophagus: snow just starting to fill couloir. Sorry... no pics! My camera didn't make the trip to San Diego

All right… most everybody has likely heard of Hermann Buhl carrying around snowballs when he ran or hiked to develop psychological tolerance and to increase capillary capacity… or at least that is the theory... And you’ve likely read in some ‘Extreme’ how to books that: - the occasional ice cold shower - bouldering in boots with a backpack and gloves on - etc etc …are all good ways to ‘train for’ and ‘simulate’ alpine conditions. Yeah they work... (then again some maybe not?) but admit it… you look and feel like an idiot. How many snickers and goofy looks do you get when you wear plastic boots in the climbing gym? So conversation over sparked this discussion: What is/are the stupidest thing(s) you have done or better yet did regardless of the fact you looked stupid doing it regardless of whether or not it worked to attempt to ‘train’ or ‘practice’ for alpine climbing. A few I will admit to: - in college one my roommates and I would never turn on the heat more to protect the beer money fund but we told each other and house guests it was alpine training. Those decrepit shacks would get so cold you had to put your belay jacket any time you weren’t in bed… I think the refrigerator wouldn’t turn on for all of Nov and Dec and frost would often form on the inside of the windows. The only time we would turn on the heat was when girls came over as their was no way anybody (boy or girl) was getting naked at those temps - also back in college more for laughs (and we did) we convinced a recent sport climber turned alpinist that he should practice tying bowlines and figure 8s behind his back with mitts on in the shower (ice cold of course) in the dark. He fell for it once. - Running or trying to run with a backpack filled with weight on. Though this was a great way to trash the backpack and my joints I found that I could get the same level of work out trail running hills. Never again. - For a brief while I also tried running while pushing a baby stroller with weight in it. I bought at a garage sale STUPID! - Though it honestly has helped my climbing I can’t help but laugh at myself or anyone that makes it a point to go drytooling at rocky butte on a weekly basis… the beer bottles, the bum camps, the crack whores turning tricks, the risk of car break in, the trash, mud, slugs, and poison ivy… all usually in the rain. Alright... let's hear 'em... campus board in a meat locker? climbed in a verve g string to save weight?

Looking for evening cragging/gym/whatever partners between 11/28-12/1. If you can put me in contact with someone you know down there that is cool too Also if people have beta on local/close climbing options (no I don't have time to drive out to JT ) give me a shout. TIA!

AFIVE emailed me yesterday and said he would be there at 4 pm. You too can hug and make up PM thenumber3 also...

Portland, Oregon Best recognize the original metal face avatar beeyotch

Escorts? Scratch my original guess... Lair must be in NE PDX. Hope to see you at dt night

I'm willing to bet the lair is in Beaverton or one of the other suburbia wastelands of strip malls and mini vans that surround PDX. If the lair was actually in PDX the commander would have better things to do than sit on the internet all day and talk smack. In fact... I bet commander is a stay at home dad Ms Cobra Commander must wear the pants, or in this case the mask, of the relationship Hey Cobra! What's for dinner?

Get her what she likes. Don't make the mistake of telling her what she should/will like... it will suck if it turns out you were wrong. You will find this lesson applicable to many aspects of relationships and dating . Far, you will, go if you master it.

None... I'm an express and americana fan. When are you coming out to dt night commander? It's a short drive for you...

I'm out for tonight... working SUCKS! I know AFIVE and Ivan are attending... people should still be able to attend but contact Ivan if you are coming or need to borrow gear.

Any pics of the north side of stuie?

Savings accounts are finite my friend hence the job I hacked in and changed my avatar... currently working on changing RuMR's to midget knob goblins

Work until at least 4:30 so earliest I could go would be 6 pm. Looks doubtful.

Use your # 1 camalot outside yet?

Chaps = Dwayner

Don't know yet.

Drytool night: Tuesday Nov. 22nd 4 pmish (I might be late so Ivan since it sounds like you will be first set up what you want) to whenever (if you can't make it till 6 pm that's cool... just let me know you are coming!). Bring your headlamp! Newbies welcome! I was out there Sunday and everything was dry so if people are interested in rock climbing it is also an option. Get a hold of me if you are coming out!

I'm thinking Tuesday but wait and let me check with some peps... I'll announce whatever it ends up being in the PDX DT thread

That 10b on the north side (forget the name) that is two bolts before you turn the roof (gear from there on) is super cool! All pro above the roof is super cerebral too... none of this plug and tug stuff of the north side. Not dank at all... Don't worry about not getting out this winter... you know me and you know I wouldn't take a job that would interfere with all that extreme hiking we love to do Get yer to dtnight and bring Oleg!

Freezing level was/is too high for my tastes... guess I'm getting conservative in my old age That and I return to the fold on Monday so long sabbatical Parts of beacon are open year round!

Next time just drytool it with gloves on

Nothing. That's what spray is. Welcome to cc.com