Blake

i went from where the photo is taken, up toward the big v-notch on the left side of teh photo. It was snow below, then rock. I then went up all the way to where i could see down to bridge creek, (loose stemming/chimneying) and that wasn't working. I eventually went up a branch of the gulley that split right about 40' below the notch. This became a 4th class right-facing corner. Then it was straight up for 1/2 rope length to the top. 3rd/4th and nothing too loose or scary. I rappeled from the established anchors at the top, and this brought me back to my axe and pack, just above where the gulley branched right. I didn't see a 20' crack. I think that this route was fine, and was NOT snow covered at the 200'. I don't know if the notch indicated in "summit routes" is better or worse, but i doubt it's much better. -blake

hey, i'll be up by then. school starts wed, what about heading down to erie wed or thrus afternoon?

P.S. if you aren't comfy soloing back down exposed 4th class you'll want a rope.

do sahale if you can find good weather. you can camp in pelton basin or on the arm, and dot it in a mellow 2 days. the ranger up there this year is really nice.

Sunday 3:00 PM - Drytooling at Rocky Butte Monday - anyone up for Beacon rock give a PM

see TR posted by DBerdinka in the N. Cascades forum. Late July/early august.

Kelly, thanks a lot for posting. It sounds like there WILL be fees by '07 if not '06, and this will mean (it would logically seem) harsher enforcement and penalties for those without paid permits. I also realize that most of the NCNP rangers are against this, but it will invariably cause more conflict, as rangers will be obligated to force (ie Ticket) those without permits, into getting permits the next time. Visitation in the NCNP has fallen since the 90s, and would fall further when it becomes costly to camp. I'm wondering where the impetus for these fees is comng from, considering the declinging use of Boston Basin, and the park as a whole. IE, where's the new permit money going to go.... I hope not just maintaining, enforcing, and self-perpetuating the permit system (a la the "trail parking pass"). A family of 5 people who come up Lake Chelan and want to camp in the Park for one night would need to pay a total of $250 for the boat, shuttle, and one overnight camp fee in the park. The boat and shuttle of course being NPS concessions, and the permit fee being $10 per-person per-trip, which is what I heard to be the likely fee system. I know that the much (most, all?) is outside of your influence, but these costs are prohibitive. I think mine (and many others) disagreement with the current permits, is that we go into the wilderness to "get away" from it all, and don't like to feel as though we need permission from the NPS to hike up a remote ridge, bivy for a night on a rock, and then climb around and hike down the next day. (example of a common trip itinerary) The condescending and lecturing attitude of those who assign the NPS passes is also a reason for not getting them, especially by folks who have sat through the lecture so many times before. I hope this doesn't come off sounding like a personal attack, it's just some views and question I have, and my impressions of the commonly held views of others. -Blake Herrington Stehekin Cinnamon Roll Maker

I think the amount of beer Doxley needs to brew will be inversely proportional to the quality of weather which is experienced.

Sorry I missed you on your way out, i think i was up in the mountains or something. Glad to see all went well. I think that the guy who epiced on that high-traverse was Tom Sjolseth... he should have listened to me. I'd love to hear from someone who has done that route as an approach or deproach to Goode/Storm King without having it turn into a 5+ hour ordeal involving 5th class. Maybe you can double check my suggested Storm King route description, and comment on errors, or maybe newer editions of green Beckey have been corrected. In either case, let me know: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/498674/Main/223474/#Post498674

Seriously though, Gary YIN-gev-ee?

That'd be like moving to hawaii and asking if there are any public pools where i could go swimming.

Yin-Gev-EE? how the heck?

Did you guys bring the article down to the Ranch Room too? I can picture Layton with a page of newspaper, and beckey with his half a dozen books, both trying to score on the b-ham girls.

You guys better go 44:23 to show Andrew and Nate a thing or two about speed hiking....

Storm King Route revision: My old edition of the CAG suggests leaving the PArk Creek trail 3/4 mile (towards Stehekin) of PArk Creek Pass. This route is bad-to-impossible, especially solo (Brush, cliffs, waterfalls, flowing gullies). If this approach is still included, I suggest ditching it. The approach to Storm King should follow the Goode descent climber trail from the PArk Creek TRail. This climber trail leaves the maintained trail about half way (4.5 miles) from both the pass and the Stehekin Road. 400 yards up-valley of a huge washout (marked with 10' snag and cairn), the climber trail cuts off to the right (toward Goode and Storm King). Head up and right through the forest 1/4 mle until you shortly reach the ridgeline that runs toward Goode, parallel to this major watercourse draining Goode's SW side. The climber trail runs immediately WNW of this drainage gulley, and can be followed to meadows at 6,000'. From here, head north, through the talus basin between Goode and Storm King. Climb moderately steep snow or, later in year, talus, to a main gulley just SW of the highest/easternmost tower of Storm King. 40' below the top of the gulley(where one is able to look over the edge into the Bridge creek valley), follow a branch right (East), through a 4th class right-facing dihedral then up for 100' to the summit. A single rope rappel from the summit lets one avoid any exposed 4th class, and brings you back just below the 4th class dihedral.

What a pointless post... pure arrogant bragging about an accomplishment which is hardly noteworthy and has been bested numerous times before. As far as the whole-way PCT record, I believe it was ~83 days prior to this summer, when the trail was run most of the way, and the old record was smashed. This run was very supported by a crew of people bringing in food and other gear, setting up camp, etc. So maybe it doesn't count.. then again, who cares?

Now if there were only a way to unleash the peregrines on these dudes.... How permanent is the damage?

As I was rereading the revelation that the ptarmigans had photographed their original traverse and other FAs, I thought I'd point out that the Darrs took photographs as well on some of their FAs. These photographs seem to be largely unpublished, but the Darrs, along with Leuthold and Metzger were the first to seriously explore and climb a large area near Stehekin and the Holden Mine. Photographs existed (at least into the mid 80s and may still exist) of the FA of Tupshin peak (sept 1940), and because that climb was done on a huge trip full of other FAs in the area, it is likely that the camera would have been there for the first climbs of: Devore, Flora, Wyeast, Riddle, and White Goat Mtn as well. I may be of some help in locating these photos is Lowell, Harry Majors, or the NWMJ folks wanted them for any reason.

Meant no disrespect Mikey, I thought the summit was a short scramble from where you stopped pitching it out, I didn't realize that is was still a significant challenge to get up and back, and that you might have been commiting to a different descent route. Well done on that face... adventurous and hardcore climbing for sure.

Why would topping out on the unclimbed summit have commited you to another entire day?

Was this on continuation of the trip that went from Rainy to Cascade PAss and over Logan? Which way did you use to get up Buckner?

So SE mox peak has never been climbed still? Great job on the endeavor Erik, Mike, and supporting guys.

Maybe someone like Lowell Skoog could scan in the picture of the N. Face of J-Berg which is on page 58 of Tom Miller's Book. THAT IS THE BOOK'S COVER, NOT J-BERG, WHICH IS ON PAGE 58 The picture is from 52 years ago, and It'd be great to see the comparison and what Jens and Loren's line would have covered then.