Blake

It'd be great if you did, and don't worry my eyes aren't really that evil looking.

How did Cache Col get its name? Wasn't there somehow a non-existant stash of Jello which was promised to the group somewhere up the Agnes Creek Valley from High Bridge?

See this thread: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...dbeb#Post465599

There seems to be frequent and constant wonderment over the current condition of the Stehekin road. Here is the situation, and I will update as needed. All mileages noted are in road miles from the boat landing. Refer to this page for shuttle bus times: http://www.stehekinchoice.com/valley/transportation/trans_shuttle_link.htm The public shuttle currently runs to the Stehekin Valley Ranch, at the 9mile point. The best estimate for this summer is that by early/mid July, the repairs will allow the shuttle to regularly run to High Bridge (11 miles). At this point you will be able to drive up to the 13 mile point (Carwash Falls) if you talk to the shuttle driver, or are able to get a ride from a private citizen. From here, there is no chance of dirving further. If heading up valley, the "old wagon road trail", which paralells the river and the road, can take you directly to the Bridge Creek Campground in 3 miles, and walking is friendlier than on the washed-out roadbed (bikes prohibited ). One can also carry/ride a bike along the old road bed from miles 13-16, and at Bridge Creek (16miles) the road is in great condition, and can be biked with a few carries, up to Cottonwood Camp (23 miles). Popular trailheads for climbs and their mileage from the landing: Purple Pass: 0 Rainbow/Boulder Creek: 2.5 Company Creek: 5 Agnes Creek: 11 Bridge Creek: 16 Park Creek: 17 Cascade Pass:23 P.S. I'll be working in the bakery , stop and say hi. PM/Email if you need a partner.

Marie... the new Snugtop.

Neutrinos aren't very good biners! Omega Pacific Dovals are bigger, same weight, less money, more usefull shape. Trango Lightweight Wiregates are cheaper, larger, and equal weight. Trango superflies are bigger, 6 grams less, and equal $$ CAMP nano-wires are the same size, and 6 grams less, and less $$ WC heliums are bigger, keylocking, 3 grams less, but more $$ DMM Shield is bigger, keylocking, 4 grams less, but more $$ DMM Spectre is bigger, fancy colors, 3 grams less, but more $$$ Neutrino's aren't especially good compared to the above models, and English made carabiners are fancy, but costly. Considering weight, price, and size, there is always a better biner than a neutrino, for any use. Plus BD gear is so popular, buck the trend. P.S. Scot'teryx was recently selling superfly wiregates for under $6. give him a PM or email. http://www.questalb.com/

how much is KATU paying the sherpas?

Bye Tex, enjoy Red Rocks! P.S. Thanks for trashing me when I put up a TR for the Hogsback on Hood. It was the gaper initiation I needed to feel right at home.

IF the second lied about not being able to clean the gear, then that is a pretty trashy thing to do. However, if nobody climbs with new climbers, there'd be more enjuries, fewer awesome new routes, and the sport would die off.

By the way guys, if you really want another free cam that some noob gaper couldn't clean, check out this one: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/462414/an/0/page/0#462414

I'd say that if you were following them up the crack and you saw them leave it and you cleaned it, you ought to offer it back to them. IF they tried to remove it and couldn't get it, then I guess you have the right to not offer it back, but they (and everyone else) has the right to think you are a jerk as well.

Directing people onto one path as opposed to many when an area first sees traffic is IMO one of the only legitimate uses for flags. (and even that can be argued either way). I'm glad that you agree that it should be gone. By the way, a bunch of the yellow tape from the trail down to the creek was forgotten balled up beneath a branch just past the crossing. The next person to cross the creek will be my hero if they grab it. P.S. Scott, those fixed rope bits come in super handy, especially going back down. Ignore the BS that you got when you first mentioned them in the FA report.

Rage Against the MAchine - "New Millenium Homes" The Fire Theft - "Heaven"

Maybe over in the 'Dark Continent', here in the 1st world countries, we'll keep whipping on bomber hex placements.

This is a great thing to know for emergency situations, but godDAMN is it painful to use. For guys. If you know what I mean. ...You know.... ...The nuts... ...Smashed.... ...Yup. ....Painful.... It also loads the locking biner along multiple axes which is probably not such a good thing, but if you are taking >6kN falls on that harness, you'll probably wish you were dead anyway. For extra fun, try it with one of those ultra-skinny mammut runners. I hear you on the issue of not wanting to fall while wearing that thing Pax. I've mostly used it to belay friends on top-rope while they climb wearing my harness. To prevent the tri-directional carbiner loading, I usually pull one of the side loops throuhg the other loop, then through the crotch loop (or a similar thing), and clip straight into the one loop, which avoids this issue.

I can use a 48" runner and pull a loop between the legs, and one around each side of my waist, then connect with a locker and it works for me. If you are much fatter then you'd need to use a longer piece of webbing.

Are any of you guys a part of the the group of three that we ran into on Sat evening? You were going up to bivy, and climb for the day Sunday.

To those who have hiked along Bridge Creek all the way to the highway at Rainy Pass, how easy would it be to connect to the highway at its southernmost point, and avoid the last 2.1 miles of trail all the way to the Rainy Pass parking lot. It's been several years since i've been North of Fireweed Camp on this trail, but the greentrails map makes it look like a logical shortcut, as the road and trail run parallel for the last two miles.

Makes me feel better about my own inability to retrieve it. (twice)

Don't even go to the SW gulley. Head directly to a prominent twin-topped larch and go left from there along obvous third class to a belay spot below the two dead snags and the offwidth crack. The first pitch is probably 5.6 or so and protects easily. It's a much more direct and logical start than to go up the gulley to above the giant chockstone and to downclimb left to the base of Pitch 2. Billygoat was refering to the TR I posted from last week. It's reasonable to be able to extrapolate future conditions based upon snow levels a week ago, and our current weather. I'd advise against snowshoes. IMO they are not worth lugging up the trail merely to avoid a couple hundred yards of knee-deep snow.

But did you get the free cam? Even with Bill's funkness device it was still a lost cause for us. Billy, I don't think that sport route is really so "ruthless" we just lack the skill to do it in style!

WC Hexes > Metolius hexes

Sounds like the same exact thing that happened during the FA of "Frogs in Space" at Mt. Erie.

Nobody's found it yet?

Eric, if you want to improve your technique and strength on small holds, head down to erie and do one of the many sport tens. Small holds that are hard to find make any decent hold feel like a bomber jug.