Blake

I've heard it said that it doesn't autoblock very well on small diameter ropes compared to the Reversino. works like a charm on my 8mm ropes.

prove it Dru

b-52 is lighter and doesn't get a sharp edge on it, AND handles small ropes, so you don't need to buy a reversino. Therefore, it is better.

Atlas gloves.

PM sent on the watch

Kioti, see PMs ok?

Mt. Hood meadows has night skiing for $5 on wed. even if conditions are not great, its practically free. Anyone want to join me for skiing or boarding? (plus rideshare)

Anyone out there climb 'Zero Tolerance' at the Cirque on Mt. Erie? .10b sport climb that feels like the essence of bouldery to me.. sequency, steep, tricky big moves. Billygoat and I turned it into a project last May.

I've been climbing for less time than just about anyone on this board, but I think CBS is saying that everyone should listen to me anyway.

Miniwanker -> Kiwiwanker.... nice job whomever.

I like how the close-up on the bottom makes it look like an enormous alien.

well, thanks for the pics guys, i guess the exploration will wait, unless some mixed climbing is in order. Too much snow for the rock to be fun, and not enough snow for skiing.

so how about the 2nd pitch of godzilla, that seems like a bouldery start, meaning the first moves are significantly harder than the rest of the climb. however, this route is still rated by the difficulty of these moves, right? Could this maybe be because its a second pitch of something?

More like Mount Bareback Shouldn't it be called "The life of a migrant homosexual ranch-worker is difficult, due to prevailing social stereotypes present in the rural American west circa 1960." doesn't really flow off the tongue though.

come on... tomorrow looks nice!

So, if you have a 5.8 handcrack with some .10 moves off the ground, it's a 5.8 climb, but put the moves just before the end of the route, and it's 5.10.

shouldn't it be called 'mount brokeback'?

oh, well i guess i forgot. Why do you think the book lists it as a bouldery start then... just harder right off the bat?

I think Penny Lane in Squish was described this way. a 5.8/9 great crack the whole way up, after some trickier unprotected moves off the deck.

If you ONLY want to sport climb (A horrible choice IMO) then, as has been said, just get about 10 or 12 cheap quickdraws, and start leading easy routes with many bolts. clip one end of the quickdraw to the bolt, and the other end to the rope. climb higher and repeat. Google "Back clipping" and "Z-Clipping".... avoid them. When you feel good try harder routes. Make sure your knots and harness are secure, your belayer and you know what to do and what to say, and what you will do at the top of the route in terms of belaying, rappeling and getting down. Have fun.

Where's this climb? seems like somwhere near Magic Mtn.

well, Billygoat and I went in there last weekend and ski around the lower slopes by the seracs. If we had left friday night, i think saturday would have been awesome for a climb. Drive up the Glacier Creek road for 8.5 miles from the town of Glacier, then take the Heliotrope ridge trail for a couple miles through the woods, to where it breaks out into the open on the flank of Baker. Depending on snow conditons and who has come before you, the drive/ski in might be longer or shorter.

Anyone interested in climbing at Beacon or broughton's on Monday, Tuesday, or Wednesday? If not, then perhaps some B/C skiing around hood? Adventure climbing on Sturgeon Rock? PM or email. -Blake

Richard Pryor was not in Blazing Saddles.

Ok, anyone want to go explore some of these columns on Sturgeon Rock tomorrow or a different time this week? (I'd be glad to climb at Beacon if nobody's interested in exploratory stuff) -Blake