Blake

Haley/Paul?

HA! go get it, I did both of them in consecutive weeks, with Storm king in there somewhere as well, but all at once solo is definitely another level. Now that I think about it, I'd ammend the itinerary a little: Unless you really felt the need to come in from the head of N. Fork Bridge creek, I would do the trip this way: Drive to rainy pass, hike to the start of Goode NEB climb the route, decend blacktooth notch/SW gulley thingy descend to park creek trail by using climbers trail, which is on the up-valley ridge of major creek flowing off of Goode hike to park creek pass Go climb logan-fremont Then, either descend to north fork bridge creek and go back to rainy pass, or descend to thunder creek and hitchhike up hwy 20 to your car. Logan's main summit doesn't drain to BRidge Creek directly, but while I was sketching out on the middle peak, I noticed a very direct line down to the N. Fork Bridge creek, so you might need to be somewhere along the ridge other than the top of Logan before you descend to Bridge creek. If you are feeling more ambitious, also climb Thunder peak, Storm King, Logan Middle peak, Buckner, Everest, etc. Anyone heard of Goode NEB being Soloed before?

go to hwy 20 and aproach up thunder creek. climb Logan, Thunder peak or any high points there, before dropping down the Banded? (or might be douglas) glacier to N. fork bridge creek. then solo Goode NEB (5.6 only for a couple pitches) and descend to park creek, hike to park creek pass, and out thunder creek.

Pine martens are like foxes that climb trees and eat squirrels. Brown on the back, red on the belly. Did you find a neutrino up there as well?

I used my Stubai's on a few sections of ice greater than 50 degrees on the Goode Glacier, and they performed better than I had thought they might.

reddish on the belly? - Pine Martin

IT might be easier to go to Bannock lakes. Getting from Canyon to Bannock is a direct a short route, and getting from Bannock to the Agnes Creek TRail is also easy and direct. This puts you about 5 miles downvalley of Cloudy/Suiattle pass.

The best start for this route if from the prominent twin-topped tamarack tree at the base. Head left along an obvious ledge/ramp until you get to a good spot to start pitching it out. One airy and easy pitch gets you to the base of the prominent wide crack seen from below. This is much nicer than traversing in from above and left in the chockstone gulley.

The current plan is that you will pay for the mandatory overnight permits, $10 for each person, whether it's one night or 5 nights. Instead of only getting permits the day of, or the day before you start camping, you will be able to reserve them before in some capacity. As I understand, it wont matter whether you get your permit reserved, or "day of" you still pay the fee.

It looks like next year the NCNP will be going to a reservation-with-fee system for overnight stays. The current plan is for the costs to be $10 per person per Permit, and I'm not sure on the maximum time for the permits. I expect enforcement and ticketing to increase as well, now that there is a monetary incentive. NPS employess with whom I've talked are not happy, but the decision was made at a higher level.

Jeez Klenke, what's wrong? You didn't try to use Devil's Club for T.P. again I hope....

Nice job guys, is East Ridge in a day a significntly longer/harder climb than W. Ridge in a day, or do you think the percentage of car-to-car trips would be about the same? P.S. what kind of Helmet is that Paul? It looks light.

I really like how you made those panorama style shots.. it makes me want to drop the $$ for a nice camera. Nice climbing.

Scott Johnston and I had a discussion about that, and his thinking, which i thought was pretty valid, is that at the time of the FA (or whenever it was placed) that bolt protected moves that other gear of the time couldn't have protected. Although now a cam will do the job nearby, that bolt has become part of WA Pass history.

OK, i'm not just stealing the thing! It was totally full and the backs of pages were being used, and folks had singed in on scraps of maps and all that. I'll mail it back to the mounties.

Andrew, did you girth hitch that rad tunnel formation through the granite above the old bolt circa pitch 5? that's one of the coolest rock formations i've seen.

Paul, I have a bigger copy of the picture looking at Logan from Storm King if you want to see it I can email you. Also, does the Logan South summit have a name, I think it must have at least a couple hundred feet of prominence. P.S. I was reading through the register this morning, came across a few things. Many familiar names (Skoog, Pullen, McMurtrey) but also a Wayne who soloed the FA of a 5.8 grade V rock route, is that the CC.Com Wayne? The names of at least two of the victims of the Sharkfin accident were also on there from an '03 climb.... stay safe out there everyone.

Climb: Storm King and Mt. Logan(s) -Chossy Gulley, Fremont Glacier Date of Climb: 7/19/2005 Trip Report: I headed up the Park Creek drainage on Sunday evening, planning on climbing Storm King and Logan, two peaks that I had seen the week before. Instead of following the suggested route in Beckey, which has one leaving the trail at the 5 mile point (Or From near Park Creek Pass which seems insane to me after viewing the area), I took the excellent climbers' trail up to the base of Goode. For reference, this path leaves the Park Creek Trail at next to a 10' snag, 5 minutes past the huge washout. From the basin between Goode and Storm King, a couple thousand feet of boulders and talus brings one to the base of a snowy gulley surrounded by the many spires of the Storm King formation. Climb the gulley on snow, eventually becoming 4th class rock. 30' before you can look down on Bridge Creek (chockstone and old snaffled-up slings) angle right up an unprotectable corner/face for a pitch to the summit. The register is from 1980 and has about 20 entries. The views centered on where I had been and where I was headed After getting down from Storm King, I had the bright idea to follow the directions in my '77 edition of Beckey, and attempt to traverse over to Park Creek Pass. The description in the guide gives about 2 sentences to this possibility, but I'd love to hear from any who have done it. This route resulted in 5+ hours of sidehilling with major exposure and too many juniper belays. I eventually rappeled a couple times to make it to the pass, but if I had stayed higher longer, I might have found a 3rd/4th class way down further north. I can hardly believe that this is/was the suggested approach to Goode and Storm King. I would not suggest this route, even with a partner. The next day I left Park Creek Pass at 5AM and began the approach to Logan. I knew the general idea was to traverse up and across the ridge to the Fremont Glacier, traveling on the glacier, until the snow slopes up to the rock, south of the summit. Looked right to me. Ended up being the wrong damn mountain! After some low 5th soloing above Bridge Creek, I made the summit of Logan Middle Peak , a ~9000' sub-summit probably 1/3mile to the south. I left a register and a cairn, finding none. Beckey says that the Logan FA Party climbed this peak as well, thinking it might be the high point. Bad rappels and worse downclimbing left me back on the glacier, and I decided to go climb the real thing. I met up with another solo climber on the Fremont Glacier, and we completed the third class up to the summit together. Amazing views from Rainier to Canada, the the Boston Glacier looming largely. We left the summit at 2:00PM, he would camp up high, while I still had to hike 12 miles and bike 10 more to make it back home at the end of a 16 hour day. P.S. I judiciously chose to remove the full summit register for prompt mailing to the proper archival depository, if anyone is heading up to Logan soon, bring a new one to replace the paper scraps. Gear Notes: 8.1mm 60m 3x double runners 2 nuts, 2 tricams Axe, crampons Approach Notes: Trails recently brushed. Too much exposed choss below both mountains (low snow). Fremont Glacier was no problem.

if you know how to pull some strings, or you bring bikes up with you, i'd recomend them for the descent. it's a fast 11 mile ALL downhill ride to lake chelan, where there are better campign spots, nicer swimminging, and fewer rules, than in the village. Cheap icecream is the place's saving grace.

Awesome climb guys. I have a question though... why not just bring the other 8.1mm half rope (PMI verglas or something) instead of the rap-only rope that weighed about the same?

right click on the image itself, and go to "properties" then the pic's URL, which ends with ".jpg" is what you stick between two image tags.

No, you leave some Rasta bivi gear? the only ledge on route is a couple thousand from the bottom of the rock. Thanks for all the comments all... if anyone wants to climb logan, buckner, or anything else from Stehekin this summer, don't hesitate to PM me or email.

Is that the "Horse Fly" route? Nice Job guys. When you look straight down Boulder Creek from the summit, you can see a bit of the Stehekin River and the Orchard.

There is currently enough snow next to the summit to melt for your water needs. there are a couple bivi spots on the very top that could accomodate 4-5 people. The summit was in continuous clouds from mon night through today, except for two hours on tuesday afternoo. If you head down park creek, i'd highly recomend following the directions I wrote to make it to the valley floor. IMO the glacier will be very hard to get by within a couple weeks.

P.S. Frosty_the_tradman... from what Steddy wrote in the summit register, it looks like he and your girlfriend were up to no good while you and JShamster climbed this last summer.