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Everything posted by Blake
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La Sportiva Trango Extreme boots, good for ice and mountains, not good for sitting in my closet.(which they have done for 2 years) They are basically good-as-new, except I just re-treated the leather with waterproofing leather gel. Get your ice-climb on with some new shoes! Probably retailed for $300 or so, I'm selling for $75. I can drop off in Bellingham, Seattle, Portland, or SLC. Otherwise add a few dollars to ship them. Size 43, which is about 10 or 10.5 US
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I'm driving from Portland to SLC on Nov 2 or 3rd. I'd love to share gas $$ and driving time. Let me know if you need a ride or know anyone else who might. After a day in SLC I'll be heading to points south... Thanks
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Sol, I think Kris might have TRed that variation when I was down there with him last June. It's also to set up a top-rope by climbing Dr. Sniff or p2 of Princely Ambitions.
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Any thoughts on what the practical differences between these two models might be for use on all-around climbing, with an alpine emphasis? They weigh the same, cost the same, etc... Trango Extreme Trango Prime
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It's because I was wearing the same LA Gear shoes last weekend as on that famous climb day. They are so fashiony, but I struggle to maintain balance and hence take on the catwalk look. I guess I'll never get that LA Gear sponsorship now!
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When you move to Colorado you lose the use of your "G" key. They confiscate it at the state line.
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I want to get a couple very cushy old thermarest pads for car camping and road trips. They shouldn't be the fancy new lightweight backpacking ones. Maybe someone has some sitting around the garage collecting dust, cast aside in favor of the new lighter/skinnier ones. If it has a leak, that's ok too. Off brands or vintage 1980s colors are not a problem. Thank you!
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first ascent [TR] Sherpa Peak - Rilikpa (sw face), FA, 5.7/5.8 9/16/2008
Blake replied to wbk's topic in Alpine Lakes
Nice Tim and Ben! What does Rilikpa mean? Tim, I thought i was drooling over the rock quality but then I realized that it was the shirtless pic of you. -
I'm looking for a one-way ride to Rainy Pass/Washington Pass on Friday evening or Saturday morning. I'd be happy to pitch in for fuel and meet you in mt. Vernon, or other points on the west side. Fri 9/19 or Sat 9/20. THANKS!
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This is an intersting point. While biking around in the San Juans last summer I randomly got a call from Erik Lambert who does the online stuff for Alpinist. He'd seen the Trip Report that Dan Hilden and I wrote on CascadeClimbers after a trip to the Gunsight range, and wanted a few pictures and a description for the website... how cool! He told me that since Alpinist stopped printing news of new routes, they are trying to have a very active and frequently updated webpage, with user-submitted articles, weekly features, and stories about new routes. I really enjoyed the chance to write a short article, as writing (especially about mountains) is something I like to do. Dan is a photography student who was recently travelling/photographing/climbing in Peru, and was equally excited to get any experience having his photos published, even on a website read by a few thousand people. Alpinist went on to have online features about several other climbs reported here, including Darin Derinka's NW Arayete on Mt. Shuksan, Drew Brayshaw's 'Graveyard Shift' and Craig Mcgee's new climbs on Les Cornes. I don't know if Erik contacted these people, they contacted him, or everyone just used coincidental telepathy. I'm not sure why it would matter either... I think it's neat that Alpinist is running news of new routes, even when they aren't some 5.13X sketchfest. The NW Arayete (III 5.8), like any route I could make it up, is far from cutting-edge. However, it sits in an incredible position, has a good story behind, and seeing it on the Alpinist Newswire inspired me to go check it out! There is no hidden conspiracy behind any of this, and nobody is ever forced to read Alpinist's site. P.S. If we all put our Alpinist submission money together we could buy a piece of penny candy! If we had a penny...
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A used (but works like new) Ortovox F1 Analog beacon. $75 OBO Serious Professional Reviews: http://www.telemarkski.com/html/rvw_ort01_1120.html This user-posted review is a gem, and worth including here even though it gives the beacon a bad rap: Reviewed by: Chaz(Unregistered User) , DoubleDiamond , from Boulder, CO Price Paid: $300.00 Riding Style: Berthod Pass Product Year: 99-00 Summary: Dude, this thing is so confusing. Me and my brahs were in the backcountry, and I couldn't figure this thing out! Corbin got stuffed, and it took, like, 10 minutes to find his ass. I'm going back to the Tracker, even if it's not as cool. Strengths: Looks cool in the lift line
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http://www.omakchronicle.com/nws/n080909a.shtml Seattle climber dies in accident near Mazama A 31-year-old Seattle man died in a hiking accident near the Goat Wall in the Methow Valley last weekend. Okanogan County sheriff Frank Rogers said his office received a call around 1 p.m. Monday, Sept. 8, from the climber's wife that Ryan Alan Murray Triplett was overdue from a hiking trip in the Mazama area. Triplett, who is an avid rock climber and cyclist, was supposed to be in the Goat Wall area off of Lost River Road out of Mazama, said Rogers. Hikers in the area discovered Triplett's vehicle and his dog at the base of a cliff, the sheriff said. The sheriff's office, Okanogan County Search and Rescue and Aero Methow Rescue Service were called to the area. At about 2:30 p.m. Triplett’s body was located in a rocky area of what is called "Prime Rib," said Rogers. "It appears that Triplett had been climbing alone and had fallen, possibly sometime on Sunday," Rogers said. "Rescuers were able to climb into the area and recover the body of Triplett." Family members were notified Monday afternoon. He posted here as "RyanTriplett".
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first ascent [TR] Silver Horn - Playin' Not Sprayin' III 5.10
Blake replied to Blake's topic in North Cascades
I somehow erased most of the good ones. There are lots of van and garage-sized boulders with flat grassy landings. -
Has this seen a repeat yet? I don't think so, but there looks like plenty of new route potential there and nearby I haven't heard of any repeats. Any route description that features the phrase "pudding chimney" isn't exactly calling for repeats.
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first ascent [TR] Distal Phalanx - North Arete (FA) 9/6/2008
Blake replied to John Frieh's topic in North Cascades
Good job Craig and John! That's a very very long day to go from the trailhead to the top of that route in a push. We must have done a different line on the lower section, definitely found a little 5.10 down there, then lots of brushy simulclimbing to the halfway ledge where we left a cairn and bailed. There was some crazy lighting that made the upper headwall appear filled with chossy roofs, but your photos look good. As Sol told the NCNP people "we're off to climb the Distinct Phallus!" -
Get Feathered Friends to make you a down parka with an eVent shell.
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You can take your climbing to (several) next levels around here. These routes might be good choices for summer/fall alpinism. Most are grade IV or V and feature 5.10 or 5.11 climbing in beautiful locations, not to mention glacial issues, etc. Several are unrepeated. Beta exists for them all. Most are primarily alpine rock. For Washington: Stuart - Girth Pillar Colchuck Balanced Rock - West Face, The Tempest Dragontail - Dragons of Eden, Boving Route, Dragon Scar Bonanza - NW Ridge via dark pk traverse, 3 summits traverse E->W Gunsight Peaks - E Face, W Face, N->S Traverse Buckner - Complete SE Ridge w/gendarmes Silver Star - Gato Negro Juno Tower - Clean Break Liberty Bell - Freedom Rider, Independence Route, Liberty Crack S. Early Winter Spire - The Passenger, The Hitchhiker Goode - Megalodon Ridge Swiss Peak - North Face Pillar Fury - Mongo Ridge SE Mox Peak - East Face Shuksan - NW Arayete, to the summit via the Labor Day Route Castle Peak - Colorado Route, Hirst/Herrington route (both on central buttress) BC: Take a look at all the TD+ and ED routes in McLane's alpine guide. Slesse - East Pillar, North Rib Les Cornes - Springbok, Spring Cocks Bardean - Hidden Pillar Vienesse - N Face, Derektissima, Bohemian Rhapsody I'd love to hear how some of these go, or see a TR and pictures if you give them a shot!
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Drive Hwy1 East from Hope. All distances are given in miles. For the gravel roads you will want a high-ish clearance car. Subaru Outback was ok when very careful. ~27 miles: Cross huge bridge, about .5 miles past the bridge, take a right on the Nahatlatch FS Road. This is in the vicinity of a hwy maintenance shed type complex. The road quickly begins by turning steeply up and right. All mileages on these gravel logging roads are in miles, and should be exact. Set the odometer when you turn off Hwy1. 1.8 MilesVeer right @ road fork near old bus/junk 3.8 MilesGate here, it was open on a Saturday, but a key in hand would be wise. 7.1 Miles VERY important sharp left turn up a steep hill. Missing this sharp left turn will bring you immediately to another gate, which we found open. Don't go through the gate, go left before it. 10 Miles Old logging camp infrastructure. 11.5 Miles Big bridge (shortly followed by smaller bridge off to the left) 13.7 Miles Junction with S. Anderson Road. Stay left on North Anderson. 15.1 Miles Junction of North Anderson and a spur road leading off to the right (south) towards roads 600 and 610. Take the RIGHT turn, leaving North Anderson Main. 15.8 Miles Park here, where a small clearing exists at the beginning of road 610. This is unmarked and the old road is now a trail with alders invading quickly. Several small fire rings exist. Hiking Approach: Hike South on the old roadbed of road 610. Evidence of alder pruning exists at first. Follow this road/trail, keeping the creek down and to your right. Don't turn off this road, but follow it south until you are opposite Steinbok peak, above where a long strip of old-growth timber extends downslope on the opposite side of the valley. Bash and thrash your way down to the stream, cross it, and head up into the strip of old-growth, where a recently improved trail leads to open alp slopes below Steinbok, Les Cornes, Chamoix, etc.
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Hey John, did you make it up to the top? I'd be eager to hear how it went above the 1/2way mark. Great work getting on that thing. The bottom half was brushy but had good rock, thought approaching from up the Neve valley is character building. The top half looked like the rock turned to garbage, but I'm sure you'd know better than we would. Either way, it's a wild valley back there and a pretty huge feature, eh? I imagine John Roper didn't tell you that we'd tried the climb cause he likes to keep a bit of mystery about things and we were considering a re-attempt. The reason I didn't post step-by-step Gunsight approach directions is because there's certainly enough (tons!) of obvious beta out there to figure out where to leave the trail and walk up the hillside to open alpine slopes above. Since both parties who received my approach beta felt sandbagged by it, I'm not sure it's really useful.
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It's about 5 miles from Newhalem.
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Totally last-minute... Anyone available for some alpine granite this weekend? 3 people, looking for a 4th. Headed to the Anderson River area of SW B.C. Routes are along the lines of TD+ 5.10+
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That's really stupid. I completely disagree that spray painting "Balls" or curse words is the same as using chalk on a hold. Sure they are both visible, but one is permanent, generally rude/offensive, and serves no other constructive purpose. It's sad how this thread is a microcosm of cc.com though. Someone actually posts a serious topic and offers to do the community a clean-up service, and they hardly receive any help. In order of severity and potency, I'd try these things: Rubbing Alcohol and Brush 3M Adhesive Remover http://www.shop3m.com/62466749306.html?WT.mc_ev=clickthrough&WT.mc_id=shop3m-AtoZ-General-Purpose-Adhesive-Remover'>http://www.shop3m.com/62466749306.html?WT.mc_ev=clickthrough&WT.mc_id=shop3m-AtoZ-General-Purpose-Adhesive-Remover But I bet this is the way to go... Lift Off - Environmentally friendly graffiti remover http://www.shop3m.com/62466749306.html?WT.mc_ev=clickthrough&WT.mc_id=shop3m-AtoZ-General-Purpose-Adhesive-Remover http://www.doityourself.com/stry/motsenbocker4
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In its current mossy state, I can think of several free climbs that I'd personally rate as better. One of them is within shouting distance to the left. If it were totally clean, I think it'd be up there with some of the better ones, but a couple of the pitches aren't much to write home about.