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Everything posted by tanstaafl
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Re. current conditions: Compare and contrast snow level/coverage with Jason's photos third and fifth from bottom. (Not my photo, as usual I didn't even remember to *bring* a camera.)
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[TR] Lichtenberg Mountain - Standard route from Yodelin 12/08/2017
tanstaafl replied to tanstaafl's topic in North Cascades
wow that was easy. once again thanks for the upgrade guys! -
Trip: Lichtenberg Mountain - Standard route from Yodelin Trip Date: 12/08/2017 Trip Report: Mostly just testing out this fancy new software. Skied Lichtenberg on Friday from Yodelin, freaking beautiful once you got above the inversion but coooold while in it. The snow up top was nice to ski though it was important to watch out for pinwheels, but between the top of the inversion and the meadows at the base conditions were....challenging. Great to get out though. Gear Notes: The usual stuff Approach Notes: More creek crossings than usual due to low coverage
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yeah, kind of strange how lonesome considering the beat in skin track and snowshoe trails, but I'm not complaining about that! Hey, what does it mean that I have reputation of 1?
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Thanks again to Jason for your photos; skied this yesterday and the inspiration was this very trip report. Snow conditions were not as stellar as they appear to have been here; but what an insanely nice day. Beautiful views, good company, not another soul seen after we left Austin Pass, and soooooo warm! The only time I wore a jacket all day was on the downhill.
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Thanks Oly; the database "beta" search tool was the one item I used the most often. Thanks for all the work you're doing!
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Just logging in to say that Eric's wife has known him long enough to know that it's not you, it's him. He's got a tendency to be a little....optimistic about how long things will take!
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Those certainly are some beautiful photos. I especially like the guy in full race position in the second to last photo. He is ready to GO. I assume you left from the ski area? I was skiing Kendall that day; as I recall it was pretty cold.
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question AT boot for big ass calf muscles and wide feet?
tanstaafl replied to layton's topic in The Gear Critic
This might be heresy, but one thing you might consider is looking at women's boots -- lots of women try/use men's ski boots but I don't think the crossover goes the other way much. Because women's calves tend to be longer and extend further down the back of the leg than men's do, women's boots are generally slightly shorter than men's boots, thus the top of the boot could be low enough not to constrict your calf muscle. I tried on many men's ski boots when I was trying to buy AT boots and they all squeezed hell out of my calves while being totally loose and sloppy in the ankle area, even at the tightest setting. I ended up with Scarpa Magics, which at the time was just about the only Dynafit compatible women's boot out there, but there are way more options now. There are also ways to use heel lift pads to make ill-fitting boots work better, but with all the options available now it seems like you should be able to find boots that actually fit. -
That's quite the cc.com hall of fame summit register page! The Jason-isms remind me of an old climbing partner who like to say things like, "If we had some bread, we could have some peanut butter sandwiches, if we had some peanut butter" during unplanned bivies.
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first ascent [TR] Hozomeen Mtn, South Pk - North Face, IV+ 5.9
tanstaafl replied to lunger's topic in North Cascades
Did the alpine thong turn into a speedo somewhere along the way? And John, 2003 *was* a long time ago! We were all so much younger and better looking then, remember? -
first ascent [TR] Hozomeen Mtn, South Pk - North Face, IV+ 5.9
tanstaafl replied to lunger's topic in North Cascades
Thanks for the write-up, Eric, glad you got that out of your system! -
God yes. The Long Ships is one of my favorite books of all time and I can't count how many people I have foisted it on since I first read it. Never have more genial marauders gone a-Viking. The intro by Michael Chabon was pretty fabulous too.
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First Ascents in The Cascades - Most Prolific??
tanstaafl replied to therunningdog's topic in Climber's Board
Thanks to all who presented last night; it was a great show and good to put faces to a few names. And special thanks to running dog for the sweet Venn diagram! -
From the Alpinist report: She redpointed the climb on all natural gear, placing all protection—eight pieces in total; TCUs, small offsets and one nut—on lead. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-rodden-yosemite-hard-trad
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Another organization with existing field staff already working in remote areas is the dZi Foundation. https://dzi.org/about/
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That's definitely ryan lurie, the ginger Jesus. I sent him a link, hopefully you'll hear from him soon.
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PM sent
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[TR] White Chuck Mountain - W Face Attempt 12/2009
tanstaafl replied to dberdinka's topic in North Cascades
Ken Ford, Micah L. and I climbed this route yesterday in far less snowy conditions on Ken's last available climbing day before he heads back to Ethiopia. None of us remembered to take a camera but Micah took a couple of photos with his cell phone. If he sends them to me I'll add some. We did the lower chimneys in 3 pitches, with the third pitch being the crux in 2 out of 3 people's opinions. The only one who disagreed was Ken, who led it, so take that for what it's worth. The mid-height snowfield yielded several hundred feet of scrambling, and we too avoided the final "rotten chimney" pitches by climbing a pitch and a half to the left of the chimney -- one straight up and one traversing leftward, to meet the standard route trail. We found a fixed wire at the base of our final pitch that had been there for quite some time. We felt the rating of 5.7 was fair, but sparse (sometimes extremely sparse) protection that often wasn't great even when you could get it made us agree that you might not be that happy on it if 5.7 is your limit. A couple of Micah's photos below: Ken leading the third pitch; also deceptively challenging in summer Me on short fourth pitch next to upper chimneys