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tanstaafl

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Everything posted by tanstaafl

  1. Powerhouse Falls on Friday with mtnfreak, then Buszowski-Kippen on Saturday. Sunday we ran the car out of gas on the Agassiz road, hitched back to Hope, got gas, caught a ride with Fred Beckey's lookalike back to the car, then finally made it to the climb (which wasn't in, just as Fern said), sometime after the rain started. So we bailed to the Blue Moose.
  2. Aw shit. Sure hope he's ok/it's not him.
  3. Unless he changed plans at the last possible minute *and* managed to avoid all of us all weekend long, rbw1966 was in Hyalite this weekend, not Hope.
  4. I bootied a screw that was left backing up a V-thread yesterday. If you tell me what climb you left it on and what the markings are on the screw I will return it.
  5. The Farm is under the Glacier Express chair on Blackcomb. No guide needed. There are also some climbs on the ski-out from Blackcomb Glacier. Show up with avy gear, get yourself a bc one-way lift ticket, ditch the avy gear in the car, ride the lifts up and climb at the Farm.
  6. Lil Swiss yep Dolomites nope Ten days in Powell River, all of which were rain days except one Sierra yep -- didn't get on what I wanted to, but did get some good stuff in Backbone Ridge AND Triple Couloirs on Dragontail yep Still not dead Done some leading, way more soloing than I would have thought, and lots more drinking than is good for me Still tanking in the dating department
  7. I'm a chick, though I'm sure you could also find someone to tell you that I'm weird.
  8. I spent three months living in SLC winter of 2002, and had a great time. I was ski bumming and doing a little ice climbing, so I wasn’t part of the power structure, but I found people bitching about Mormons to be far more annoying than any Mormons I encountered (who, admittedly, were mostly guys in their early 20s who did drugs and climbed way hard). Also personally found SLC to be a dating bonanza, unlike my Seattle experience. Seemed like every time I turned around I was getting asked out. The liquor laws are annoying however.
  9. I still post TRs on wreckdot rather than here, but since I’m in Seattle now, I come here for info on NW routes/current conditions. I certainly wouldn’t say r.c is any more cliquey than cc, but that’s just my two-bit opinion. I know and have climbed with people from both sites.
  10. Did South Face of Prusik June 5. Rapped down N. Face into knee-deep snow, traversed slope, which was steep (50 degrees maybe? Or maybe it just seemed like it at the time), back around to south side. I was wearing Mountain Masters and my buddy wore some sort of mountaineering/climbing boots. No crampons necessary in the upper enchantment Basin, unless you do what I did and tie plastic grocery sacks around your feet to keep them dry. Then some ultralight crampons come in handy. We did take light axes, which we pulled out for the descent down Aasgard, but ski poles were overall more useful and would probably be sufficient, depending on your comfort level. Have fun.
  11. Heading up to Little Switzerland at the end of the week. Anyone been in there and have beta on recent conditions/weather? thanks
  12. from a man's mouth to my ears to you " you don't want to date a girl at the top of the mountian, or the one sitting in the car bitching" I took that to mean that there are woman that are just to competitive with the guy they are climbing with. no guy wants to date some one that he constanltly has to prove himself or his worthieness too. Or a girl who has something to prove. no guy wants to date a bitch so maybe it is not the guys but perhaps how you present yourself and your goals. just food for thought Damn, don’t you think jumping to the conclusion that this chick is a bitch is a bit much? I don't know the guy you're talking about so he could have meant it any number of ways, but frankly, that quote sounds to me like the old “I want a girl who climbs, but not quite as hard as I do” syndrome. When I’m climbing I want to climb, as hard as I can, without worry about whether or not that’s going to hurt some guy’s ego. I don’t think men are really all that fragile anyway. Despite the fact that it evidently means I'm a hideously ugly bitch who hates alpine, one of the things I've really enjoyed about being a single climber is that climbing is about climbing, pure and simple, and it's *not* all mixed up with relationship issues.
  13. Found a down vest on my way up to Condor Buttress this weekend; pm me with the brand, color and size and it's yours.
  14. Find email addresses here: http://www.house.gov/writerep/ http://www.senate.gov/general/contact_information/senators_cfm.cfm
  15. Quitting your job is the key, grasshopper...
  16. goals: 2 weeks in Little Switzerland 3 weeks in the Dolomites 3 weeks in Powell River Get down to the Sierra again Backbone Ridge on Dragontail Don’t die in avalanche while skiing this winter Lead some ice Have more than 3 dates with the same guy
  17. tanstaafl

    Top 3

    Summer isn't over yet, dammit. But top three so far: Five days climbing in Powell River. Don’t ask me what, I have no idea. It was all on Psyche Slab. N Ridge Stuart/W Face North Early Winters Spire (tie) Led 1st pitch C'Est La Vie and The Unsaid in Eldo
  18. If you had a climbing wife, I doubt that she'd want to give up her other partners and tailor her goals to your interests, either. Isn't that why you have multiple partners in the first place, so that *one* of them will want to do whatever trip you have in mind? And if you had a climbing wife, your pace might hold her back instead of the other way around.
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