curtveld

Spent a season at 49 and pindude has pretty much got you covered. That being said, the terrain is really quite good, in the blue to black steepness range. I'd take it over Baker in a heartbeat in terms of more sustained slopes. The other thing that was a bit of a surprise for a Cascadian is it's actually pretty gray - not much sunshine in the winter. Definitely more consistently decent quality snow though.

Looks like I will be going down tomorrow. Anybody want to join up and make it an even number? Email me at the address in the top post.

Good offer. Yeah, Sat might work - I'll let you know.

Sun's out! Anyone want to get out for a bit of de-rusting tomorrow afternoon? Email: curtveld at comcast dot net

When I stayed there, AAC membership wasn't required, but that was decades ago, so who knows. I know they're trying to improve their membership, but I'd need a stronger reason than just to be able to stay at the Ranch. You could check/post on their bulletin board even if you aren't staying there.

Good luck finding someone to meet you there. Another option is to connect with a partner when you get there. The Teton Climbers Ranch would be an excellent place for that: http://www.americanalpineclub.org/p/grand_teton_climbers_ranch

Agree totally . I am partial to having some photos mixed in, but appreciate the quality reading on some mega-classics.

Way to ride out all the flak and keep your cool, Moosejah. It might not be obvious, but most folks on this board are interested in Yak for an entirely different experience: To do a long rock climb in dry conditions WITHOUT a bivy.

Pick off another back-country classic from the bucket list: Early Morning Spire, Cathedral peak or something similar Continue my shift from Darrington ‘visitor’ to ‘regular’ by getting involved in some road/trail and/or bolt maintenance. Help usher another issue of NWMJ into e-reality.

Boots, where was the shot right above the one with the wine box - Paisano?

Wow, some pretty spectacular stuff, all! Dannible, fgw and Boots - would love to see some TRs from these trips...hear the stories...hint, hint. It's never too late.

Same here. And I agree that allowing the maintenance of pre-Wilderness lookouts is a reasonable use of the flexibility in the Act. As far as environmental impacts, a lookout on a rocky peak is way down the list, unless you want to consider the impact of the added vehicle and hiking traffic they attract. It is curious that WW has decided to raise the red flag as we have plenty of local groups dedicated to wilderness preservation. The locals probably understand how unpopular this would be with their constituents.

Dayum, you guys are putting up new classics for my to-do list faster than I can check em off! Let us know how we can contribute some $ to the hardware fund. Now there's a TR I'd love to see...regardless of when it happened. Go for it Chris!

The skiing is great, but what sets it apart is the grubby smelter town environment - the smokestack, barking dog, dirty snow, gray skies... Definitely, and it did (check out 4:35)

10b...yeah, right...that thing's way more than one letter harder than the rest of the climb, IMHO Nice send and photos, as usual Mark.

Well your odds would be better that way, but you might still be able to hit a nice day. With the quality of point-based weather forecasts and real time info on the web, it shouldn't be all that tough to predict what you will find. In addition to mild air temps, check that face wasn't recently plastered with snow. But it does face south, which helps.

Totally agree - he makes everything look like 5.8. And the sage commentary from Largo, now an elder statesman of the sport. And then the Zappa quote: "that's the crux of the biscuit...as they say..."

Nice! Where is it?

Nice work, Wolffie and friend - great trip through some gorgeous country. That's alot of steps for a short fella!

Cool, a nice clean crag out in the woods with no crowds! And another good example of why the the Kids forum should have a TR option.

Trip: Lexington Tower - East Face Date: 9/9/2011 Trip Report: Lexington has always been an objective evoking mixed feelings. An awesome line in a beautiful spot, but always a fair bit intimidating. This hesitation was not based solely on my own insecurity with wide cracks. On one of my first visits to WA Pass in the late 80’s I talked to climbers along the road: “That chimney was really awkward – I’ve done 5.10bs that were easier!” Sure the select books have it, but with descriptions like “strenuous and intimidating off-width” (Nelson). Beckey uses the terms “exhausting” and “difficult” repeatedly, not to mention “difficult protection” and “questionable bolts”. OK…. no wonder none of my partners ever seem to share my interest in Lexington. In the decades since, I had ticked off the other Pass classics, some harder, some easier, but never Lexington. It had become the last tick. But Andy agreed to do it...again. He had climbed it once long ago and recalled a very long day and considerable pulling on gear. Well, at least that meant there would be gear to pull if needed. So after an early start and tense hike under the Bell, we reached the right-hand toe at the Face’s low point. We were not going to sneak up the left-hand gully and traverse into the route – we were there to do the complete East Face! When we dumped out the gear, we discovered a problem. I had two rock shoes, but they were both left-footed! What an idiot – after all the buildup, now I’d have to wait for another opportunity. But Andy’s ingenuity came through: “You can wear my rock shoe on your right and I’ll wear your approach shoe - It’ll be fine as long as you lead everything”. I agreed to give it a try – in fact, his sloppy shoe would give me an excuse if I flailed! Of course, the actual climb could not live up to the buildup, though it was indeed solid and dramatic. The pro is fine and you do have to engage in some true chimney and off-width climbing, but not always where you expect from the topo. I finally learned how the route surmounts the huge roof shown in Nelson’s photo I had inspected for so long, and it’s pretty cool. And Andy managed just fine with his rock/approach-shoe combo. The familiar approach What’s wrong with these shoes? Clean climbing on lower slab Steeper cracks on pitch 4 Conspirators at belay 5 Time for the biz - the overhanging off-width of pitch 6. The sling is attached to the famous 2"x4". Rappelling into the shadow of the Early Winters group Tat at belay #5, good spot to stash packs Gear Notes: Medium rack to #5 camelot. Descent via rappel

Update: All conditions (moats, crevasses) still excellent as of 9-6. A great year for a September ascent!

Thanks

It is generally quite good, but a fair part of the route can be described as mediocre. Gravelly, rampy stuff, loose blocks in places, stuff more typical of Cascade rock peaks. The group concensus for the entire route was "good, but not great". Still quite recommendable, I'd say.

An excellent outing - thanks guys! Considering how good Jason's photos are, you hardly ever notice him stopping along the way!? I'm starting to think what he does is 99% Photoshop.