curtveld

Fantastic...now I can stop agonizing over where I would go if I won the lottery. And what's the big peak on the right side of the last photo?

There is a tiny stream several hundred yards north of the bench that is often running this time of year. That direction isn't very intuitive, and you can't hear it until you're there, but usually enough to fill your bottles.

Nice TR

Best first post ever?! BTW, since you mention the Homathko, last spring a group (including a Bellinghamster) approached their Waddington ascent by kayaking the Homathko: http://www.outdoorresearchverticulture.com/2012/07/multi-shredding-the-b-c-coast-range/

Next PM in line

This is remarkable. Wonder if it's because of the 5 stars in the new SuperTopo book? Awesome line though - love that flake pitch.

Very nice shots, and some useful beta! Looks like a long hike across, especially when going in late summer for dry conditions, yet the daylight is getting shorter...

Trip: Three O Clock Rock – Penny Lane Date: 8/31/2012 Trip Report: Here’s some stoke/beta for another under-appreciated Darrington gem. Since Casey recently joined my Skagit basin employer, we vowed to climb together. He’d never climbed at Darrington, so we needed to fix that situation ASAP. All systems were good for Friday, so it was off to 3OC for the obligatory intro of Silent Running. After dispatching that, we popped a couple Gus, rapped to the start of Penny Lane and finished our day with a route I’d never done. The beta: Another well-crafted Dtown slab option you can do as an alternative to the dike pitches of Total Soul or as a half-day route. It keeps your focus, as the steepness and difficulty increase with each pitch. Pitches 1 (5.7) and 2 (5.8) wander up clean wavy stone. Bolt spacing (all 3/8") is typically around 20 feet, so a tad sporty for the novice slab leader, but not unreasonable. On pitch 2, you need a 1” cam for the overlap. It’s the only gear placement on the entire climb, but don’t forget it because it protects some cruxy moves. Heading out on P2 Pitch 3 is the classic: A full rope of clean slab, it starts at 5.7 and steadily increases to around 10-. Smeary yes, but with enough scoops and little chicken-heads to keep you looking around. An awesome lead! 10 bolts. Pitch 3, Casey making it look easy - with a top rope Pitch 4 is steeper, more featured and a bit dirty. It has several 5.10 sequences, including the dark slab with the seam around mid-pitch. Whitelaw’s topo in Weekend Rock is spot-on, showing the crux at the last bolt traversing into the Total Soul belay. But “5.10c”? – I’d give it a 5.10++ (11a?). You can easily fudge it with bolt assistance if needed. If you bring a wire brush, you might discover another crimp and the 10c sequence that eluded me. Pretty sure he'll be back A fine day with an outstanding new partner! And the all-too-typical Darrington irony: Good access, gorgeous rock, perfect climbing weather and no other climbers. Gear Notes: 10 clips, couple small cams, double ropes

Sencha PM

Sweet! Brings back memories of my daughter's first backpack at 9 mo. and our similar attempt to sleep three under the bag. She had a blast rolling between us all night, but no one got much sleep. She's 15 now and carries her own bag.

Trip: Southern Winds - Old farts reunion tour Date: 7/14/2012 Trip Report: Ever wonder what would happen if you got together a bunch of old partners from decades ago? Could you track them down? Can they still climb? Would they get along? So the plan started with Peter (Grand Jct. CO), then Andy (Sioux City Iowa) and finally Sayfe (Phoenix). I climbed with each these guys in the early 90s, but never together. Sayfe and Peter connected later in Oregon and did some fine climbs together, (including an intimate bivy on Mt. Stuart, which is not my story to tell). The goal was to get together in the Winds, a place we’d all dreamed of. We spent most of our week in the Deep Lake area then made a short pilgrimage to the Cirque of the Towers, about six miles further. We avoided the two ‘Classic Climbs of NA’ in the Cirque, so this TR has little resemblance to others from the Winds. We found excellent climbing on the four routes we did (more details below), but first some scenery: The crew: Peter, Sayfe, Curt Andy Classic Winds approach - mellow and scenic Approaching camp above Clear Lake Steeple and East Temple Temple Peak Looking toward the Cirque over Deep Lake Obligatory Cirque porn Two heads: Andy and Wolf's Early morning light on Warrior peaks Festering mosquito breeding ground Flash Flood (5.9, 5p) & North Face Haystack (5.6, 4p)“Welcome to Wind River 5.9!” Being new to the Winds and their notorious afternoon storms, we started with something modest – or so we thought. First two pitches are scrambly climbing under the arch. Haystack Peak - North Face just around the left skyline. Flash Flood meets it from below, climbing through the arch and up the shadowy dihedral At Pitch 3, the business begins– the stepped dihedral is impeccably clean, but pro is sparse and never quite where you want it. The arch is turned via steep 5.9 crimping above a single ancient ¼ bolt (only bolt of the entire trip – this place is trad heaven!). Just when the belay comes into sight, I realize I must crank another pumpy layback around a fixed pin. Once the belay is rigged, I notice the rain is getting serious. Andy grapples with P3 and continues on the sharp end. Right off the belay is a steep corner with dicy thin gear (old skool 5.8), then the crack eases for a ways. Pitch 4 has a couple more bouldery cruxes, then a roomy ledge. The beautiful thin corners of pitch 5 would make a spectacular finish if it wasn’t so wet and windy. Dr K and impeccable rock for pitch 3 Pitch 5 in the rain We find a protected spot for a bite and listen for Sayfe and Peter’s voices below, in vain. The rain slacks off, so we remind ourselves that we are Cascadians and continue to the top of Haystack via the North Face route. The climbing is easy but entertaining – continuous mid-5th corners and slabby face. The Grassy Goat Trail descent goes smoothly, and Sayfe and Peter are waiting in camp. Having their own struggles to complete Flash Flood, we are skeptical of my remaining route ideas. Grassy Goat Trail descent North Ridge of Steeple Peak (5.8, 5p): “Memorable, indeed!” Steeple is so prominent from camp that we all agree that a run at the standard 5.8 route is next. It's got a real (hour+) approach, but the first two pitches are classic cracks reminiscent of the Gendarme pitches on Stuart. The first is a thin corner (5.8) that gets friendlier. The second heads out a ramp, over a giant flake and into a cool and committing right-angling crack. Steeple Peak - the route is obvious from miles away... Scrambling to the start "um yeah, I'd lead this one" Sayfe crankin' A bit more scrambling and the real drama appears – the upper peak is split by a giant chimney that invites various anatomical and mythical comparisons. My strategy works - generously take the first lead (5.7 with some runout and exposed moves) and offer Sayfe the second “easier” 5.6 chimney pitch. Although deep in the bowels, the chimney is steep and demanding. From past chimneys in the Valley, Sayfe found it more like 5.9 (not sure if our getting older and climbing less was adequately accounted for). Sweet little splitter The Mines of Moria After the chimney, a corkscrew scrambling pitch leads to the top. Summit views are amazing and include the seldom-visited Black Joe valley and walls to the east. Descent is via multiple rappels and scrambling down the South Ridge (a Chouinard route), and a maze of ramps and talus. Andy and Peter plunge into frigid Deep Lake; Sayfe and I head back to get a jump on cocktail hour. Sun again Black Joe valley and lots of remote granite Grassy Crack (5.6, 7p): “Junkiest climb I’ve ever loved”. Andy’s and my ambition to get on a larger climb (Minor Dihedral) fades with the early cloud buildup. Peter and Sayfe are already on Railroad Tracks (5.8), so we opt for this impressive line (aside from the name), which follows a 4’-wide chimney straight up the 600-foot face. Grassy Crack is the obvious vertical crack system right of center - a proud line for 5.6! Railroad Tracks angles in from the left. Veggies make a nice belay seat Per Murphy, the rain cranks up around pitch 4, but the climbing is juggy and reasonably well protected, so we forge on. Guidebook author Kelsey says you can climb cracks to the left, but Andy’s attempt found it loose and unappealing. Not that there aren’t loose blocks in the chimney, but it’s pretty easy to stem around. Not as classic as its neighbors, but a fun route and close to camp. Exiting the mega-chimney South Buttress Pingora (5.6/8, 4p): “Finest 5.6 on the planet?” With one climbing day in the Cirque, we were looking for proven quality and we found it! The ledge and slab approach is a bit exposed, but puts you right up onto the golden buttress. Peter and Andy took the standard 5.6 cracks (“outstanding!”), while Sayfe and I chose the 5.7 central crack that leads to the K-Crack headwall. The K Cracks (both 5.8) are about as fine as alpine rock can be - long diverging finger cracks up a white slab right on the crest of the buttress. From there, it was a Class 3 & 4 scramble to the summit. Pingora is the Liberty Bell-shaped peak - the South Butt comes up the left skyline. The belay views are decent: Warbonnet (L) and Warrior peaks Starting the left K Crack Climbers on K Crack (center) and standard 5.6 finish (left) Across the gap, we watch a free soloist grapple with route-finding issues on the exposed East Ridge of Wolf’s Head, glad to not be in his shoes. For the first time all trip, there was no 2 pm shower, so we all took a dip in icy Warrior Pond on the way back. "Oh yeah, we just on-sighted this sucka..." So, how was it climbing with old buddies? Pretty darn cool! The tempo was more relaxed than when we were hell-bent 20-somethings - so much more appreciation for the food creation, the amazing scenery, and our various personality quirks. Trail conversations that used to focus on future climbs, now include career pitfalls, family politics, middle eastern history, Higgs-Bosson particles, you name it. The ‘connection of the rope’ is still there. "Damn...it's back to work on Monday" Gear Notes: The thick pad was nice. Bug net never used. Thanks to my fine partners for bringing and using their cameras. Approach Notes: Airporter, Delta, Imogene (Peter's Suby) to Big Sandy

Absolutely, and a fine outing it was. Good call on the route!

Me too, man I wish I'd been there ....wait, actually I was Great shots, Tyson, especially the B&W of Goode.

Man, you two have crazy appetites for adventure! After after all that tough travel to reach Easy Ridge, must have been tempting to catch the trail down to the Chilliwack valley and out. But no, had to keep going up and over Mineral Mtn. Wow!

Rediscovering a quality multi-pitch 5.6 route within a few hours of the pavement. Now that deserves a

Wasn't sure if maybe you or Gene weren't echoing that shot intentionally...

Excellent work, lads! There's a classic shot of Beckey very near this spot. Frantically dug around my bookshelf and found it in Harlin's "West Coast Rock Climbs", which was one of my early bibles.

Me too. Actually I need to climb it so I can come back and take the poll and see how bad it was....

Fun, fun! Possibly the South Arete?

The best climber is the one climbing with the best photographer and thanks Dan

Great idea Tyson! Unfortunately I can't make it but am also interested in new local partners. About me: I'm moderately old, somewhat skilled, into moderately long days, but am fully settled in the Ham (22 yrs). All purpose climber, but my persistent interest is swinging leads on multi-pitch 5.9/10. And I'm usually free on Fridays. Tyson can give you my info or you can PM me. Cheers, Curt

I dont know Gene, this may be the dawg's most CIVIL post to date! Posted on-topic? Yup, bolting controversy already mentioned Clear message? Pretty much A few nods of acknowledgement to those with differing views? Sorta If he keeps this pattern up, readers around here might actually find his posts useful.

From the OP and photos elsewhere, I'd hazard: 1. Wolfs Head and 2. South Butt Pingora

Looks like a solid day out, with minimal weather hassles. AFT looks pretty nice from the photos - though you can't see the grunge I suppose.

Most excellent! Way to get the jump on the crowds....and bugs. I'm amazed the locals aren't more opportunistic to stretch the season in this low snow year. I'm planning on following many of your footsteps in a couple of weeks, so appreciate the conditions report.