Rad

N Ridge of Stuart is also great. The 5.9 sections could easily be aided if necessary.

I'd suggest E Ridge Direct on Forbidden (5.8). It is much longer, has much better views, and more interesting climbing than Prusik W Ridge.

Bump. We'd like to include this route in the NWMJ short reports section. If anyone knows how to get in touch with motomata please send me a pm. Thanks a ton, Rad ps. Any repeats?

Bump. We'd like to include this route in the NWMJ short reports section this year. If anyone knows how to get in touch with leearden or his comrades please send me a pm. Thanks a ton, Rad

Cool knot site. You didn't mention, but I'm guessing you'd plan to clip each loop to a biner on a bolt. What you want to avoid is clipping both loops to both bolts, which essentially replicates the american death triangle.

Probably waiting for a bold first ascent. Go for it, and don't forget to write it up on MtnProj.

Those wires remind me of times when I've slung hangerless bolts using nuts, sliding the nut up against the bolt so it doesn't pop off. Fun times.

@SCJB, grabbing quickdraws can be dangerous if you catch your hand or finger in the biner. Generally better to take the fall. @Bill, this particular line only has 5 bolts. Time and climbers will tell whether it merits fixed draws or not.

Actually, I think you can be pretty confident that Garth did not consult with all the developers. I'm not sure why everyone seems all fired up about this. Replacement gear is simply not that expensive unless you have a lot of routes to maintain. A quick check of the HD website shows that: 3/8" galvanized chain is $3.60 per foot. Smaller guage is cheaper. One 3/8" zinc plated quicklink is $2.89. One stainless 5/16" quicklink is $7. If the last link of an otherwise good chain is getting worn through, simply pull it down, take it to Home Depot, cut off the last link, and put it back. No equipment cost at all. Sometimes lowering is safer than rapping, particularly on overhanging or traversing routes. One of the biggest reasons to rap, when feasible, is to minimize wear and tear on the rope. Abrasion on rough rock and over edges is much, much harsher on ropes than simply passing over a chain/quicklink. New ropes cost a lot more than the items above. These are usually the two factors I balance when deciding to rap or lower. If I know what the standard practice is for a route then I'll usually adhere to that. Route developers usually do what they do as a labor of love. If my routes become used so much that the chain links wear through then I'd be delighted to upgrade hardware to keep them safe. As it is, I have finally found a use for all those booty biners I've accumulated over the years: leave them on the chains to make it faster and easier for people to get down. Perhaps extensive use of a route is a sign it is well-loved and has become 'real', like the velveteen rabbit. This is well worth the inevitable wear and tear.

Thanks for the input. Probably overhangs 10-20 feet in 35-50 ht, depending on the line. Strenuous is relative. Not placing draws may make a difference for my redpoint, but I'm sure stronger climbers would be fine placing draws. The issue is more of convenience and ease of cleaning. My intention is to complete the first route on the wall, perhaps work on others, and get people out to climb the routes. Just as I would prefer to have follow-on users develop consensus ratings for the routes, I expect they will help determine whether/which fixed draws/chains/wires should be left in situ. And yes, my goal is to create a route that will be enjoyed by climbers of all statures. @wknd: same.

I have taken people there but haven't posted detailed info on the interweb yet. So far there are about a dozen pitches, mostly in the 10-11 range. Starting to work on one or two harder lines, including the one that sparked this thread. If you want a tour send a pm.

Thx. It could also be a PITA to get the lower draws off the route when cleaning.

Developing a great new line on a continuously overhanging wall. When does one think of leaving fixed draws, like at 32 or other places, vs expecting people to add qdraws as they go? I imagine that bolt placement might be slightly different for these scenarios. Clipping will definitely be strenuous in the middle of the route. Any thoughts from people who have developed new overhanging routes? I want to do it right the first time. Thanks.

Probably best to put qdraws on anchor and use those for followers and TRing until it's time to get the rope off the route. Then, rapping is better for anchor and usually rope, but on seriously overhanging routes rapping is a PITA and lowering is the often better. Chains/Quicklinks can be replaced/added without damaging the anchor per se. At the x38 crag I'm developing I'm leaving old biners on chains so folks can lower quickly and easily without damaging anything. Got the idea from Nason. BTW, tis the season and I'm glad to take folks out who are interested. pm to connect. Rad

Nice TR and photos. Bummer that the rock quality is not great. Based on your pics, I've now moved that route lower on my list. I'm sure Wayne could climb soaking wet 5.9 in roller skates and oven mitts, so you were in good hands.

Actually, I have the opposite reaction when finding a new crag. In a choice between having ticked off a bunch of routes on my to do list and a legacy of establishing a few really fun, high quality routes I'd be unable to throw all my marbles in one pile or the other. I'm married w/kids and have been putting time into route dvpt for the past few years, at one local crag and occasionally in the mtns. I really enjoy sharing these routes with others. Sometimes new routes and fun outings with friends merge (put it on your list!).

Maybe FAFM (first ascent for me). Regardless, kudos for having a vision, cleaning, and sending. You're just getting flack because of your other obnoxious posts. Don't let the naysayers deter you from future projects. And btw, I get to decide what is RAD and what is not. Period.

Then you should be fine. Bomber small nuts protect the crux on p3 and the fall is clean if you should fall. Go for it! And continue up Lovin Arms. The 10b pitch is a bit insecure and can be damp, as noted above, but the 10c is pretty reasonable and very fun. The final 5.9 pitch is fun and not as runout as some would have you believe.

Godzilla is fun, but the opening moves are pretty unprotectable and a fall from them could be ugly. The 10 bolt approach from the left is better protected but harder. Davis Holland p1 5.9 has a short crux that feels 5.9, but it is often wet so that adds to the spiciness. p2 is about right at 10a, but it can feel harder if you don't trust your feet or jam/lieback efficiently. p3 seems pretty soft for 10c, and it's a one move wonder, but the opening moves of that pitch are really fun.

Here's another reason to drink warm beer: your uncultured partners won't steal it from you! At home, I sometimes get Tim's Jalapeno chips. MMMmmm spicy. My kids will say, "But daddy, you know we don't like spicy so we can't eat them." My answer: "Oh, you're right, I guess I'd better eat them myself!"

Creeks and rivers that drain from snowfields usually rise during the day as snow melts, and drop again at night. Rising waters may wash away your beers, which are pretty close to neutral buoyancy, even without human intervention. I lost beer in the Sierras in this way years ago. If people really stole it that's sad, but just means you need to find a better stashing spot, forego ritual swilling, or be willing to drink warm beer like the hardier brits. "One man gathers what another man spills"

RIP Monty. Thank you for being so generous with your time in helping with the SAR article I've been putting together. I looked forward to sharing it with you, but now I guess I'll have to dedicate it to you instead. Vaya con Dios, Rad

My worst climbing injury was a badly sprained ankle many years ago. I was trying a climb at (or perhaps beyond) my limit and unexpectedly popped off while pulling up rope to clip the second bolt. My belayer yarded in slack so I was still caught, but my foot landed on the edge of a stone. I barely hobbled back to the car but still managed to serve as an usher (on crutches) for my roommate's wedding the next day. Oops! Trad, boulder, sport. I don't think any one is categorically safer than another.

no STATE income tax in WA. Still gotta fund the feds. BTW, you guys need to spend some $ painting reflective paint on your roads in OR. I recently drove I5 from end to end at night and was not impressed. ps. the best rock climbing in OR is in WA, right?

tee hee. makes me glad to live in a state with an abundance of rock climbing and NO INCOME TAX!